Waking Up the LandSnoozer - A Run-of-the-Mill LS Swap (1 Viewer)

[dbbowen]

Definitely run braided AN line and wrap it in a heat shield and youll never have to worry about it. DEI makes really good heat wrap to reflect radiant heat, and if you are running cats, they make a heat shield that you mount to the cat itself to bounce some of the direct heat out of there. I use the nylon braided lines because i like all of my stuff to be black, they make stainless braided lines too.

If you dont want to redo your lines you can just use the DEI heat shield that has a velcro enclosure and secure it with stainless zip ties too.


heres the heat shield for the cat

DEI Heat wrap

 

[adman02]

@cruisermatt
Making progress on the wiring but discovered my xfer case connectors don’t match my body harness connectors. Was there an intermediate harness on the AF440 that I should have grabbed?

Xfer case connectors

Body harness connectors with your 4l60e pigtail in the background

 

[cruisermatt]

yes. There is a harness between those that you need.

 

[adman02]

A little wiring help, please?

Check engine light - which is the + and which is the - on the Toyota harness? Yellow and/or Yellow with tracer? BP Automotive says it matters when connecting their harness.

Need to run oil pressure and water temp wires to the gauges. @cruisermatt said tap into the computer harness plug behind the glove box for the water temp, but I deleted all but this yellow plug which does not seem to have a water temp pin (THW). Do I run wires direct from sensors to the gauges then? And do I need to run grounds for each?

Yellow plug pictured above seems to be the pin circled in brown below

Fuel pump - BP Auto says I need to run a switched + (pink) and a wire to the pump (grey). Is there a fuel pump wire in the Toyota harness I can tap? Looking at the diagrams I think it’s one of these yellow/red wires on the passenger fender (exiting the main relay plug)?

Really appreciate any and all help here.

 

[dbbowen]

A little wiring help, please?

Check engine light - which is the + and which is the - on the Toyota harness? Yellow and/or Yellow with tracer? BP Automotive says it matters when connecting their harness.

View attachment 3245498

Need to run oil pressure and water temp wires to the gauges. @cruisermatt said tap into the computer harness plug behind the glove box for the water temp, but I deleted all but this yellow plug which does not seem to have a water temp pin (THW). Do I run wires direct from sensors to the gauges then? And do I need to run grounds for each?

View attachment 3245500

Yellow plug pictured above seems to be the pin circled in brown below
View attachment 3245533

Fuel pump - BP Auto says I need to run a switched + (pink) and a wire to the pump (grey). Is there a fuel pump wire in the Toyota harness I can tap? Looking at the diagrams I think it’s one of these yellow/red wires on the passenger fender (exiting the main relay plug)?
View attachment 3245518

Really appreciate any and all help here.

The grey wire goes to one of the terminals on your fuel pump, and the other terminal on the pump gets grounded to the frame. What fuel pump are you using? What is that bulb with the two yellow wires from?

 

[adman02]

The grey wire goes to one of the terminals on your fuel pump, and the other terminal on the pump gets grounded to the frame. What fuel pump are you using? What is that bulb with the two yellow wires from?

It's a 62, so I'm using the stock fuel pump. There's already wiring for it in the stock harness - I just need to find it (would rather tie into the stock fuel pump wire and not run a second wire all the way back to the fuel pump). The bulb is the stock check engine light from the 62.

 

[dbbowen]

It's a 62, so I'm using the stock fuel pump. There's already wiring for it in the stock harness - I just need to find it (would rather tie into the stock fuel pump wire and not run a second wire all the way back to the fuel pump). The bulb is the stock check engine light from the 62.

Ohhh i see my 60 doesnt have either of those things haha, does your check engine light come on when you key on before you start the truck? if it does you can connect one end of a multimeter to one wire and the other to ground and check the polarity that way. The fuel pump I am unsure on

 

[adman02]

Huge thanks to @cruisermatt for helping me sort out the wiring. FWIW, I thought I'd post how I wired in my swap harness in case it helps someone else in the future. Not sure if this is the right way, but it seems to work. Please let me know if you see any mistakes.

How to graft a standalone LS harness to FJ62 stock body wiring

APPLICATION NOTES

• 1988 FJ62 running Gen III LM7 with mechanical fans and no cruise control (yet)
• BP Automotive standalone harness (though I understand that harnesses are all very similar)
• Used Dakota Digital box to drive the tach

UNDER THE HOOD

Main Battery Power to Harness

• Follow harness manufacturer directions (connected to starter)

Alternator power

• Connect ringed white wire from driver's side FJ62 harness to the main power stud on the back of the LS alternator
• Round three-wire alternator plug from FJ62 harness is no longer necessary

Switched Power to PCM

• Connect pink IGN 12v+ wire from PCM to small gauge brown wire from 3-wire round alternator plug
• Be sure to use a 15amp fuse with this connection

Fuel Pump

• Run grey fuel pump power wire from standalone harness to the passenger side of vehicle
• T-connect grey fuel pump wire to the solid red small gauge wire exiting the main relay connector
• Bridge Red/White and Brown (not brown/black) wires on Air Flow Meter harness

Electric fans

• N/A for me

Oil Pressure Gauge

• No mods required if you use stock oil pressure sender (you will need an adapter to run the stock sender; CruiserMatt makes one and so does Marks4WD in Australia)

Water Temp Gauge

• Use CruiserMatt’s water temp sender or the one from Marks4WD - both screw into the passenger side head in the rear
• Run a wire from the sender through the firewall to the green/blue wire from largest Toyota ECU connector that is located behind the glove box; if you deleted the stock ECU and harness, this will be the only connector left (EDIT: THIS DOESN'T WORK; WORKING ON A SOLUTION) ended up running a wire from the gauge connector behind the dash (green wire in #6 cavity) to the temp sensor on the engine.

IN THE CABIN (BEHIND THE DASH AND BEHIND THE DRIVER'S SIDE KICK PANEL)

TCC Switch

• You’ll need a TCC switch (harness manufacturers offer them; CruiserMatt sells a plug-in TCC brake signal source – slightly different but apparently it works!)
• Follow directions from standalone harness manufacturer (match wire colors – harness purple to plug purple; harness pink to plug pink)

Check Engine Light (MIL)

• Easiest option is to run a dedicated circuit using the switched 12v+ and ground from standalone harness
• You can cut the existing MIL bulb socket and wire it into the new circuit or buy a new bulb socket (T10, I think)

OBDII Port

• Should be setup by the harness maker, but you will need to de-pin it to feed it through the firewall grommet

Cruise Control

• N/A for me

Tach/Dakota Digital Box (follow DD directions, but to help…)

• Run new wire from high volt tach output and T connect it into the black wire of Toyota tach plug behind the dash
• Connect white tach signal wire from standalone harness to DD signal input
• Connect switched 12v+ from standalone harness (if one is provided) to 12v+ of DD box
• Run a ground wire
• Depending on what box you use, they have an app the you can use to setup the the box - it's pretty simple

 

[White Sheep]

Huge thanks to @cruisermatt for helping me sort out the wiring. FWIW, I thought I'd post how I wired in my swap harness in case it helps someone else in the future. Not sure if this is the right way, but it seems to work. Please let me know if you see any mistakes.

How to graft a standalone LS harness to FJ62 stock body wiring

APPLICATION NOTES

• 1988 FJ62 running Gen III LM7 with mechanical fans and no cruise control (yet)
• BP Automotive standalone harness (though I understand that harnesses are all very similar)
• Used Dakota Digital box to drive the tach

UNDER THE HOOD

Main Battery Power to Harness (located on the starter)

• Follow harness manufacturer directions (connected to starter)

Alternator power

• Connect ringed white wire from driver's side FJ62 harness to the main power stud on the back of the LS alternator
• Round three-wire alternator plug from FJ62 harness is no longer necessary

Switched Power to PCM

• Connect pink IGN 12v+ wire from PCM to small gauge brown wire from 3-wire round alternator plug
• Be sure to use a 15amp fuse with this connection

Fuel Pump

• Run grey fuel pump power wire from standalone harness to the passenger side of vehicle
• T-connect grey fuel pump wire to the solid red small gauge wire exiting the main relay connector
• Bridge Red/White and Brown (not brown/black) wires on Air Flow Meter harness

Electric fans

• N/A for me

Oil Pressure Gauge

• No mods required if you use stock oil pressure sender (you will need an adapter to run the stock sender; CruiserMatt makes one and so does Marks4WD in Australia)

Water Temp Gauge

• Use CruiserMatt’s water temp sender or the one from Marks4WD - both screw into the passenger side head in the rear
• Run a wire from the sender through the firewall to the green/blue wire from largest Toyota ECU connector that is located behind the glove box; if you deleted the stock ECU and harness, this will be the only connector left

IN THE CABIN (BEHIND THE DASH AND BEHIND THE DRIVER'S SIDE KICK PANEL)

TCC Switch

• You’ll need a TCC switch (harness manufacturers offer them; CruiserMatt sells a plug-in TCC brake signal source – slightly different but apparently it works!)
• Follow directions from standalone harness manufacturer (match wire colors – harness purple to plug purple; harness pink to plug pink)

Check Engine Light (MIL)

• Easiest option is to run a dedicated circuit using the switched 12v+ and ground from standalone harness
• You can cut the existing MIL bulb socket and wire it into the new circuit or buy a new bulb socket (T10, I think)

OBDII Port

• Should be setup by the harness maker, but you will need to de-pin it to feed it through the firewall grommet

Cruise Control

• N/A for me

Tach/Dakota Digital Box (follow DD directions, but to help…)

• Run new wire from high volt tach output and T connect it into the black wire of Toyota tach plug behind the dash
• Connect white tach signal wire from standalone harness to DD signal input
• Connect switched 12v+ from standalone harness (if one is provided) to 12v+ of DD box
• Run a ground wire
• Depending on what box you use, they have an app the you can use to setup the the box - it's pretty simple

Now you can come supervise me with wiring

 

[adman02]

Now you can come supervise me with wiring

If I can do it, you can too.

 

[adman02]

@cruisermatt
Here are pics of the pins from my BP Auto harness...

 

[adman02]

 

[PanhandleFJ]

Huge thanks to @cruisermatt for helping me sort out the wiring. FWIW, I thought I'd post how I wired in my swap harness in case it helps someone else in the future. Not sure if this is the right way, but it seems to work. Please let me know if you see any mistakes.

How to graft a standalone LS harness to FJ62 stock body wiring

APPLICATION NOTES

• 1988 FJ62 running Gen III LM7 with mechanical fans and no cruise control (yet)
• BP Automotive standalone harness (though I understand that harnesses are all very similar)
• Used Dakota Digital box to drive the tach

UNDER THE HOOD

Main Battery Power to Harness

• Follow harness manufacturer directions (connected to starter)

Alternator power

• Connect ringed white wire from driver's side FJ62 harness to the main power stud on the back of the LS alternator
• Round three-wire alternator plug from FJ62 harness is no longer necessary

Switched Power to PCM

• Connect pink IGN 12v+ wire from PCM to small gauge brown wire from 3-wire round alternator plug
• Be sure to use a 15amp fuse with this connection

Fuel Pump

• Run grey fuel pump power wire from standalone harness to the passenger side of vehicle
• T-connect grey fuel pump wire to the solid red small gauge wire exiting the main relay connector
• Bridge Red/White and Brown (not brown/black) wires on Air Flow Meter harness

Electric fans

• N/A for me

Oil Pressure Gauge

• No mods required if you use stock oil pressure sender (you will need an adapter to run the stock sender; CruiserMatt makes one and so does Marks4WD in Australia)

Water Temp Gauge

• Use CruiserMatt’s water temp sender or the one from Marks4WD - both screw into the passenger side head in the rear
• Run a wire from the sender through the firewall to the green/blue wire from largest Toyota ECU connector that is located behind the glove box; if you deleted the stock ECU and harness, this will be the only connector left (EDIT: THIS DOESN'T WORK; WORKING ON A SOLUTION) ended up running a wire from the gauge connector behind the dash (green wire in #6 cavity) to the temp sensor on the engine.

IN THE CABIN (BEHIND THE DASH AND BEHIND THE DRIVER'S SIDE KICK PANEL)

TCC Switch

• You’ll need a TCC switch (harness manufacturers offer them; CruiserMatt sells a plug-in TCC brake signal source – slightly different but apparently it works!)
• Follow directions from standalone harness manufacturer (match wire colors – harness purple to plug purple; harness pink to plug pink)

Check Engine Light (MIL)

• Easiest option is to run a dedicated circuit using the switched 12v+ and ground from standalone harness
• You can cut the existing MIL bulb socket and wire it into the new circuit or buy a new bulb socket (T10, I think)

OBDII Port

• Should be setup by the harness maker, but you will need to de-pin it to feed it through the firewall grommet

Cruise Control

• N/A for me

Tach/Dakota Digital Box (follow DD directions, but to help…)

• Run new wire from high volt tach output and T connect it into the black wire of Toyota tach plug behind the dash
• Connect white tach signal wire from standalone harness to DD signal input
• Connect switched 12v+ from standalone harness (if one is provided) to 12v+ of DD box
• Run a ground wire
• Depending on what box you use, they have an app the you can use to setup the the box - it's pretty simple

Hello, I'm following along with this wiring suggestion. Had a question. When you're referring to "Switched power to PCM". You mention a small gauge brown wire from the round alternator plug. My wires are White and Black with Yellow. That's also what my FJ62 Wiring Diagram shows. I did see a small brown wire in my LS harness that connects to the LS Alternator.