re_guderian
SILVER Star
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Vendor Archive
ARCHIVE Victory4x4 prototyping part 2 (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter brimy311
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r2m
Richard
I don't see them, did you lose you headlight washers with the new bumper?
re_guderian
SILVER Star
You cut out the ugly chicken!
Well Done !
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Shhh.... I'm not opposed to logo's, but like I say, I think it blocks a non-trivial amount of light. Put it lower and I'm down. I have Slee and RCI logos on my other junk.
Hmm that sounds painful, is the sponsorship worth the pain?
re_guderian
SILVER Star
I remember they were an option on late model FJ60's, back in the day.
I don't use mine a lot but my most memorable use was in a blizzard through a pass a few years back. The snow was collecting faster on the headlights than it could melt. The washers cleaned things up nicely.
I would guess that LED headlights don't generate as much heat as halogens...ice/snow can build up quicker.
It took most of the day. I ordered a pallet worth of goods from victory and it took me more time than I’d like to admit to understand what hardware went with what.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
^^^ i have no idea WTH this stuff is you're talking about!
To get this kinda, sorta back on track, I think the Victory Strike install video was very thorough and helpful. Except for the part about "just install the bumper", lol. I am not about to admit how much time I spent on this, but I did it mostly by myself with the help of a hydraulic lift table and a rubber tire chock to keep the bumper roughly in the correct, upright orientation. I had to drill out the holes in the tie-in brackets for the PS line clamps, but Victory customer support was super helpful with dimensions, and it seems they're on track to fix that issue. For the 5/8" through bolt in the tie in brackets, I have never, ever, even once in my life been able to accurately center-punch the middle of a large hole. So I started the hole with the 5/8" bit, since it self-centers in the bracket hole, and viola, you have a nice, centered starting point. Of course I did this on the second one, after mangling the first one... Super long needle nose are helpful to place the washer and nut on the inside of the frame for those 5/8" bolts as well. There was literally no room for hands around the tie-down hoops. I found it much easier to remove the grill while installing the bumper, as it afforded much better access to the inner tie-in bracket bolts, as well as the winch and control box. Not sure about the 14+, but here's a CL link to removing the grill from the rest of the bumper (Here). I used some body trim molding on the cut edge of my bumper, and even still, I took the body bumper back off several times to shave more plastic off, especially near the wings where it might flex more. All in all, I ran into no major roadblocks installing the bumper, and found all the holes lined up nicely, bumper was nicely finished, and all welds looked good! Looking forward to the extra clearance, protection, and winch mount!
I’d call that more a deficit on Victory’s part. The hardware labeling and packaging can be improved.
@Victory 4x4 - I have the sliders as well. I think there was more hardware left over than what it took to bolt to the vehicle. I understand the need and want to use common components for multiple skus but the amount of hardware left over is ridiculous. Probably $20+ worth. Definitely more than that at retail pricing.
The laser level was key for this cut. By far the easiest cut type bumper install I’ve done (6 to date).
re_guderian
SILVER Star
That's good to hear. This was the first cut-type bumper I've installed, and I duct taped my picture-hanging laser level to a photography type ball-head tripod, and it seemed to work ok. The metrology nerd in me wouldn't stop worrying about poorly defined datums, and definitions of "let the tape hang down", so I was bumping a level up against a moveable, flexible tape to make sure it was truly hanging "straight" down, not sure if that's what @Victory 4x4 really meant, or whether I was supposed to let it drape with the natural interference of the bumper lines, and hoping I was kinda maybe holding the top loose enough, etc etc. Anyway, it turned out okay, and if anything the measurements seemed to be a little on the generous side, meaning more shaving was required. Pictures of where the tape measure origin point is supposed to be would eliminate a lot of the guess work and stress.
I used an oscillating multi-tool to make the primary cuts, and carpentry hand plane to remove high spots and trim up the cuts. Plus, with no bars, it was super easy to remove the factory plastics several times after mounting to get more even, uniform gaps all around. I'm sure there's better tool choices out there, and recommendations in the instructions would be welcome. For my sliders, I set the steps in the blazing Arizona summer sun, and used a box cutter. Like a hot knife through butter...
The only time they've been useful for me is because I never wanted them. Gave the salesman the good 'ol "I'm not paying for it because I don't want it" line and somehow in a vehicle shortage it worked.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
For the Strike version (probably not an issue for Blitz), if you have a light colored GX, it's a great time when you're at this step of the process to paint the indicated areas a darker color of your choice. They really stick out amidst all the black when the bumper goes on.
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Really like that wheel, what brand/model?
Finished up installing my tailgate table this weekend. The install was simple, but I had a rivnut that gave me a very hard time - it spun in the hole when I was trying to do the final installation of the table. After removing the table, the trim, removing the poorly set rivnut, reinstalling a new rivnut, and reinstalling the hardware, the table was in. Thanks to Victory4x4 for providing a spare.
I also added another piece of cable between the two empty attachment points on the metal backing plate, so that I can hang utensils. This was just some 1/16 wire I picked up form the local hardware store.
The quality is fantastic ad it seems like this table can handle some serious weight. Looking forward to installing the rest of my goodies in the coming weeks and months.
I also added another piece of cable between the two empty attachment points on the metal backing plate, so that I can hang utensils. This was just some 1/16 wire I picked up form the local hardware store.
The quality is fantastic ad it seems like this table can handle some serious weight. Looking forward to installing the rest of my goodies in the coming weeks and months.
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