Vendor - Trail Tailor (1 Viewer)

[Cringe]

Since it appears we have the SME in this thread, I would really like to ask a couple questions! These recovery points bolt to the side of the frame rail, correct? Since they are on the side of the frame rail, and at the very end of the rail if I am properly understanding where they attach, how well do they handle a lateral load? Since the front of the frame rail is designed to crumple in an impact is this going to have an affect on the use of a recovery point such as this instead of something like a full bumper which is tied into both sides?

Also, I really like the looks of that bumper! The way the lines flow it almost looks...well...angry!

 

[OverlandLexusTN]

Since it appears we have the SME in this thread, I would really like to ask a couple questions! These recovery points bolt to the side of the frame rail, correct? Since they are on the side of the frame rail, and at the very end of the rail if I am properly understanding where they attach, how well do they handle a lateral load? Since the front of the frame rail is designed to crumple in an impact is this going to have an affect on the use of a recovery point such as this instead of something like a full bumper which is tied into both sides?

Also, I really like the looks of that bumper! The way the lines flow it almost looks...well...angry!

I'm not the designer of either product but I do use the TOO points and it was suggested by him to use a load equalizing bridle such as the one linked below for pulls to more evenly disperse the load. I'm not sure if that answers your question or not.

Load Equalizing Bridle

 

[Bluetribal]

Since it appears we have the SME in this thread,

HaHa! Hardly. I just don't have the $ for a front bumper, the need for a winch, and don't trust what is welded on there now as no one should!
I honestly don't see much of a difference between mounting on the side or mounting on the bottom like the stock hooks were on my 80Series. Hell the snatch strap should give before the frame.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I understand your reasoning for wanting to design the strongest product that you can and I understand how you use a particular metal and hardware grade to do that.

I find it hard to agree with the idea though. We know that there is always and will always be a failure point. If enough force is applied something WILL fail. I think we can agree on that? As the owner of the vehicle I have the ability to choose in this instance where I would rather that failure point be. I personally would much rather see your points or your hardware fail than my frame so with that in mind it would seem that going up to grade 10.9 you are only increasing the chance that the failure point becomes the frame.

If you can convince me why it's better for my frame to fail then I'm all ears...

Well for me, I will always base my designs off of 25+ years of experiences in bridge construction, steel structures, gas and liquids pipeline, nuclear facilities and pressure vessels. NOT one of the ones I have experiences with (by codes of NBIC, ASME, API, AWS, AISC, NAS-410, ASNT, including engineering specifications or company SOP's ) allow for any fixture, joint for a structural bearing, weld or other bolted connection etc... to be designed to the weaker material or thickness.. All of the above require that the design, to be at a minimum, based off of the thicker and/or stronger material. It is proven that the weaker material (a soft failure) has a less volatile end result than that of a stronger material in the event of failure.

All of my 25+ years and the 1000's of combined years of knowledge and testing that went into those codes and designs.... Well, I'll stick with my decisions.

Also, I could care less about the frame of any vehicle. I or most any qualified welder can make that repair. It is the safety for the poor unknowing soul(s) on the other end of a catastrophic failure that I design these points for.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Since it appears we have the SME in this thread, I would really like to ask a couple questions! These recovery points bolt to the side of the frame rail, correct? Since they are on the side of the frame rail, and at the very end of the rail if I am properly understanding where they attach, how well do they handle a lateral load? Since the front of the frame rail is designed to crumple in an impact is this going to have an affect on the use of a recovery point such as this instead of something like a full bumper which is tied into both sides?

Also, I really like the looks of that bumper! The way the lines flow it almost looks...well...angry!

SME... That is up for debate on who its coming from. I've had SME's from Chevron, BP, Texaco, Kinder-Morgan... etc show up on a jobsite and they are a 1st year engineering or safety persons, afraid of their own shadow and when you ask them a question their reply is " let me check and I'll get back to you...." Screw that you're the SME grow some balls and tell me... They can't, more times than not.

I look for the guy that has been working the same position for 10+ years and has the sun tan on his neck to display his experience and knowledge. Don't ask the civil engineer about the excavation... go talk to the track hoe operator. The guy with dirt on his hands and face is my guy!

Yes, I went to school for a ME degree.

J

 

[NCFJ]

LOL, if that does not get the point across I do not know what will Jason. I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night buddy, give me a call and I'll tell you what you are doing wrong

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

LOL, if that does not get the point across I do not know what will Jason. I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night buddy, give me a call and I'll tell you what you are doing wrong

Stan,

I know what's going on....



J

 

[half k cruiser]

I'm excited to see Trail Tailor getting in on the 120 platform. If your not familiar with the brand go flip through his vendor page and check out his work on the other platforms. @reevesci is a known quantity across the forum, and his customer service is second to no other vendor I've dealt with.

 

[Bluetribal]

@reevesci of Trail Tailor hit me up today with his pricing for his 120 Series tow hooks and said it was OK for me to share here.

$52 Shipped - 1/2" grade 70 bare metal tow hooks
$18 for a grade 10.9 bolt kit Shipped (SOLD SEPARATELY)

 

[AWilson013]

The pricing confuses me. $52 is for one hook, or for two? And they (it?) do(es) not come with mounting hardware?

So I guess my full question is... For $70 do I get one hook with mounting hardware, or will that be $140?

I think Kyle's pricing is something like $100 for two points, powdercoated, with hardware.

 

[Bluetribal]

Sorry for the confusion, I forgot to write for the pair $52.

And he is required to sell the hardware separately due to *Correction* insurance reasons.

In the future if this first batch sells and he has gotten moved to his new shop he will provide red powder coat for an additional $10

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

The pricing confuses me. $52 is for one hook, or for two? And they (it?) do(es) not come with mounting hardware?

So I guess my full question is... For $70 do I get one hook with mounting hardware, or will that be $140?

I think Kyle's pricing is something like $100 for two points, powdercoated, with hardware.

All,

52.00 a pair shipped -- bare metal only for now (1/2" grade 70)
18.00 for grade 10.9 hardware to install a pair of mounts shipped. (sold separately)

70.00 a pair with hardware, shipped.


Red powder will be available after the move for an additional 10.00 a pair. This will be around the first of November.

Our product liability insurance company won't allow the tow points and hardware to be sold together as a kit, but can be sold right next to each other on the website. Its the same with tow hitches and roll cages from every insurance company we looked into. Plus some may find their own hardware of a different grade more appealing.

Lead time is 10-13 days and are on order.

Jason

 

[half k cruiser]

Solid price for what will be a solid product.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Load Equalizing Bridle

How does this load equalizing bridle work? Do you attach it to the OEM tow loops using a D shackle?

Also, whats the difference of a load equalizing bridle compared to a tree saver tow strap?

[Edit: I think I found my answers here Recovery Straps and Accessories ]

These aftermarket tow points/hooks look nice, but do you have to move the radiator in order to fit in the bolts? I don't want to touch my radiator.

 

[Bluetribal]

Never used a load equalizing bridle in 11years of wheeling and probably never will.
Don't ever use the OEM tow loops except to tie your truck down to a tow truck IMO
Tree saver straps are for use when winching and for just as the name describes saving the tree you are winching off of as an anchor point.
No you will not have to move anything to attach these. They mount to the side of the frame to the two holes right above the OEM loops.

 

[AWilson013]

No you will not have to move anything to attach these. They mount to the side of the frame to the two holes right above the OEM loops.

Interesting. On the Treaty Oak points you have to cut off the factory loops on the 06+ (I think 06...) as a shackle won't clear them otherwise.

That's why I sent mine back. I don't like cutting things off.

 

[Bluetribal]

I don't think there is a difference for 06' from previous years? But I will let you know how they work on an 05' as soon as I get them

 

[AWilson013]

I don't think there is a difference for 06' from previous years? But I will let you know how they work on an 05' as soon as I get them

There is. Earlier models come straight out, later have a bend.

On the treaty oak points the straight out style clears the factory loop. The bent down style bends down in front of the eye on the recovery point.

 

[AWilson013]

Here's the newer style. From treaty oaks instagram.

 

[NMBruce]

Can you get a "D shackle" in there to hook up?


Looking at the new Demello front bumper, do you think these would still be needed?