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- #81
Guess that's what I have then. All mine came from cruiser outfitters. I just ordered extras not realizing some things already came with them
Vel's '76 resto-mod
- Thread starter velillen
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Guess that's what I have then. All mine came from cruiser outfitters. I just ordered extras not realizing some things already came with them
Is their room to move the motor back more for the shifters?Thought i felt better so went to the garage. After a few minutes it was clear I still wasnt feeling the best. But I managed to get the body on and called it quits there.
Put the radiator support just to see how well the engine sits. The fan is probably within an inch of where the radiator is. So plenty of room between engine and firewall. I ordered the new body mount kit (energy suspension) as I didnt have enough of the old ones....plus those werent in the best of shape to begin with.
I put the heater in place to check things out. The shifter should clean the heater. I say should cause i cant test it till i get the dowel pins to install it to be 100% sure. The transfer case shifter....well crap lol. Its definitely to far forward (its in 2wd in the picture). Add it to the list of things to fix
And then the small leak out of the T-case. Im not sure if its the crush washer or what. Thankfully i have a couple more so its just a matter of taking the drain plug out and swapping it. I just didnt feel like doing it right now so Ive got the oil being cause back into the bottle so i can reuse it.
Then there is this guy. I came inside to a chewed up gasket. Thankfully not one i needed lol. But this is his playing stance. He will sit and chew on his toys like that for awhile before laying down. Pretty funny to watch.
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A twin stick could be useful too.
Vel,
I'm sure you already figured this out, but keep in mind that even with the new transmission top cover that moved the shifter back 3 inches for you, the transfercase isn't affected - there is nothing to correct for the new position of the transfercase under the truck. It will still be too far forward. I had to add about a 3" dog-leg to mine to get it to line up properly. Mine looks pretty bad because I just cut down the 7" dog-leg the PO had installed but it will be hidden under the transmission tunnel so I didn't worry too much about appearance.
I'm sure you already figured this out, but keep in mind that even with the new transmission top cover that moved the shifter back 3 inches for you, the transfercase isn't affected - there is nothing to correct for the new position of the transfercase under the truck. It will still be too far forward. I had to add about a 3" dog-leg to mine to get it to line up properly. Mine looks pretty bad because I just cut down the 7" dog-leg the PO had installed but it will be hidden under the transmission tunnel so I didn't worry too much about appearance.
- Thread starter
- #85
I should have taken a picture but I did get the SOR dowel pin kit yesterday and tried it out. Kit works fine. but the shifter hits the bottom of the heater when in 1st gear. Not terribly mind you, but a bit.
it looks to me like there is. Well physically yes there is probably a good 5" before it would hit the firewall. I would have to measure to get the exact measurement. Everything Ive read has been to have the SBC as far forward as possible but it might be worth it to move things back 2" or so. I also just plopped it back where it was with the TH350 and Toyota Transfer case so I'd guess it has room to move back abit as that combo was far far back as it could go without modifying the cross member.
I got the Downey install and the AA install booklets printed this morning so I'll compare my location to what is shown in both booklets
Ill try to get pictures of engine to firewall with measurements and run it by others to get an idea.
Hasn't been ruled out yet. Once I get to the transmission tunnel work is when I will really have to decide and thankfully that is quite a bit down the road.
That was the thought I had in my head on how to fix it. Be pretty simple but effective.
it looks to me like there is. Well physically yes there is probably a good 5" before it would hit the firewall. I would have to measure to get the exact measurement. Everything Ive read has been to have the SBC as far forward as possible but it might be worth it to move things back 2" or so. I also just plopped it back where it was with the TH350 and Toyota Transfer case so I'd guess it has room to move back abit as that combo was far far back as it could go without modifying the cross member.
I got the Downey install and the AA install booklets printed this morning so I'll compare my location to what is shown in both booklets
Ill try to get pictures of engine to firewall with measurements and run it by others to get an idea.
Hasn't been ruled out yet. Once I get to the transmission tunnel work is when I will really have to decide and thankfully that is quite a bit down the road.
That was the thought I had in my head on how to fix it. Be pretty simple but effective.
Your current engine location is somewhere between where mine WAS, and currently is. Originally, the engine was so far forward, the stock transmission shift-tower was butted up against the inside of the firewall.
I believe the Downey manual calls for about 19 or 19.5 inches back from the corner of the front cross member. I believe it mentions a rivet on the frame that the mount should be centered in line with. Mine is at 19.5," and I followed Downey's instructions. It puts the engine closer to the firewall than you would expect, given all the cooling discussions on the forum. The passenger side valve cover is about the closest point, and clears the firewall by about 2." I haven't reinstalled everything yet so I can't tell you if I will run into cooling issues. The good news is, with the FJ60 top plate, this puts the transmission shifter in almost exactly the stock position. As I mentioned, you still need to adjust the loation of the transfercase shifter a bit.
If I were going to do it again, knowing what I know now, I would have cheated it out from the firewall a little further = maybe 19 or 19.25 inches back from the rear corner of the crossmember. This would only help with cooling, and would have resulted in my driveshafts being almost the exact same length front a year (which makes them very trail swapable if you ever break one). With the later model top plate, it still would have given the heater plenty of room to clear
I believe the Downey manual calls for about 19 or 19.5 inches back from the corner of the front cross member. I believe it mentions a rivet on the frame that the mount should be centered in line with. Mine is at 19.5," and I followed Downey's instructions. It puts the engine closer to the firewall than you would expect, given all the cooling discussions on the forum. The passenger side valve cover is about the closest point, and clears the firewall by about 2." I haven't reinstalled everything yet so I can't tell you if I will run into cooling issues. The good news is, with the FJ60 top plate, this puts the transmission shifter in almost exactly the stock position. As I mentioned, you still need to adjust the loation of the transfercase shifter a bit.
If I were going to do it again, knowing what I know now, I would have cheated it out from the firewall a little further = maybe 19 or 19.25 inches back from the rear corner of the crossmember. This would only help with cooling, and would have resulted in my driveshafts being almost the exact same length front a year (which makes them very trail swapable if you ever break one). With the later model top plate, it still would have given the heater plenty of room to clear
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- #87
I actually think I am still a bit forward of where you are now. But Im only basing it on pictures. But comparing yours, you are more where the Downey instructions say (right next to that rivet) where as I am pretty sure I am 1 rivet to far forward. Also looks that way just based on pre-cut holes in the frame. My frame mounts are right next to the third hole back from the front cross member (the hole closest to your hard brake line going to the soft line to the front axle.
You can kind of tell what I mean in this picture. Mine my are up against that "third hole back". Whereas looking at your pictures, your mounts look to be 3-4" back from that hole (to the leading edge of your bracket)
Ill have to measure when I get home. I am trying to figure this out way to early in the morning lol (its 6am here). But if that is the case that im a couple inches to far forward, itll make things work out just shifting it all back. Thankfully nothing is welded so wont be to hard to move!
Cool, I was afraid you'd already burned them in! For what it's worth, where your shifter currently resides is about where it would reside with the engine in the "Downey approved" location, and the original transmission top cover. You'd just need to bend the shifter a tad to have it clear the heater, which was the standard operating procedure for years on these conversions.
Really, as long as you don't have clearance and fitment issues elsewhere, there's probably nothing outwardly wrong with your location. As I mentioned, my engine was installed even further forward, with SUPER long doglegs in the shifters, but aside from a mile-long shift-throw, it drove and cooled just fine.
With the FJ60 shift tower, I think there's probably a happy medium between where you are, and where you're going. The Downey instructions are based on keeping the original shift tower - it has to be that far back to clear the heater, and even so, requires a bit of a shifter dog-leg and modifications to the tunnel. With the 60-series tower, perhaps you can leave a slightly wider gap at the firewall to improve cooling. You'd just need to confirm clearances elsewhere (steering shaft, balancer on the axle, etc.).
Like I said, if I were to do it again, I believe the "perfect" number would have been 1/4" to 1/2" further forward. The shifter would still probably fit in the stock hole (albeit off-center) with the 60-series tower, I'd have a touch more clearance between engine and firewall, and my driveshafts would be the exact same length. It was just too "nit-picky" a reason to cut everything out and weld it back in.
Really, as long as you don't have clearance and fitment issues elsewhere, there's probably nothing outwardly wrong with your location. As I mentioned, my engine was installed even further forward, with SUPER long doglegs in the shifters, but aside from a mile-long shift-throw, it drove and cooled just fine.
With the FJ60 shift tower, I think there's probably a happy medium between where you are, and where you're going. The Downey instructions are based on keeping the original shift tower - it has to be that far back to clear the heater, and even so, requires a bit of a shifter dog-leg and modifications to the tunnel. With the 60-series tower, perhaps you can leave a slightly wider gap at the firewall to improve cooling. You'd just need to confirm clearances elsewhere (steering shaft, balancer on the axle, etc.).
Like I said, if I were to do it again, I believe the "perfect" number would have been 1/4" to 1/2" further forward. The shifter would still probably fit in the stock hole (albeit off-center) with the 60-series tower, I'd have a touch more clearance between engine and firewall, and my driveshafts would be the exact same length. It was just too "nit-picky" a reason to cut everything out and weld it back in.
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- #89
It doesn't seem like there is going to be any other issues other than the shifters. As of yet at least. So it shouldn't be to hard to move things back a couple inches.
Ill have to just play around with a tape measure when I get home. if I could get both front and rear drive shafts the same length (or close) that would be nice. Im not super concerned with where the shifters go through the trans tunnel cause mine are so borked anyways itll be cut out where they need to be.
For what it's worth, the distance between the flanges on my transfercase and their respective differential flanges were:
Rear: 24"
Front: 23.75"
This is with the 19.5" back from the crossmember spacing. Super close to a 50/50 split.
Of course, that number changes slightly with how high/low you mount the engine with respect to the frame too. Mine's about even with the top of the frame. I think I decided on a 3-4 degree rearward tilt on the drivetrain.
Rear: 24"
Front: 23.75"
This is with the 19.5" back from the crossmember spacing. Super close to a 50/50 split.
Of course, that number changes slightly with how high/low you mount the engine with respect to the frame too. Mine's about even with the top of the frame. I think I decided on a 3-4 degree rearward tilt on the drivetrain.
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- #91
Well took some measurements real quick when I got home.
From front cross member to mount is ~14.75". So definitely a bit forward.
I think this shows how much room i do have though. I basically have ~6 inches before the rear of the engine would hit the firewall. Im not quite sure if the valve covers would hit first as I forgot to measure but figured this was a better reference point anyways.
I feel like I could move it back a good 3-4" and still have plenty of room. Pretty much any moving is going to require welding in plates though which is a bit of a bummer. Or I could leave it and just modify the shifters to make them work.
From front cross member to mount is ~14.75". So definitely a bit forward.
I think this shows how much room i do have though. I basically have ~6 inches before the rear of the engine would hit the firewall. Im not quite sure if the valve covers would hit first as I forgot to measure but figured this was a better reference point anyways.
I feel like I could move it back a good 3-4" and still have plenty of room. Pretty much any moving is going to require welding in plates though which is a bit of a bummer. Or I could leave it and just modify the shifters to make them work.
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- #92
Since Im a morning person (its rare for me to sleep in past 6...usually much past 5-530 is uncommon) I spent a few hours working before I head out to meet up with the gf and then my parents later.
But I got the rear sill probably 66% installed. The cover plate top spot welds (rosette?) are all welded and ground smooth. The horizontal ones I only did two. Not sure why but in my head it made sense to not do them all till the quarters are in. I also tacked the bed to the sill. SOOOOO much more support. I could actually get in the bed. Once i get the missing rear bed support installed ill feel comfortable really standing everywhere in the bed!
I then moved on to the drivers side rear quarter. Another thing Ive never done so was a bit of playing around and slow going. But I got the old one almost all removed. I just need to cut the last 1" or so off the top (and the spot welds) and then do final fitting.
One thing i did do was for the rear tire carrier nut plate thing, I tacked it to the wheel well and upper spot weld supports so itll be in the same position. I tried to do the same with the ambulance door bracket but it needs a bit of work and honestly is pretty easy to locate with just sharpie marks.
But thats as far as I got. Hopefully in the next few days Ill have it fitted, all the edges cleaned up and weld-thru primer applied, spray inside the frame channels and then get it welded up! Then do it all over again for the other side lol
But I got the rear sill probably 66% installed. The cover plate top spot welds (rosette?) are all welded and ground smooth. The horizontal ones I only did two. Not sure why but in my head it made sense to not do them all till the quarters are in. I also tacked the bed to the sill. SOOOOO much more support. I could actually get in the bed. Once i get the missing rear bed support installed ill feel comfortable really standing everywhere in the bed!
I then moved on to the drivers side rear quarter. Another thing Ive never done so was a bit of playing around and slow going. But I got the old one almost all removed. I just need to cut the last 1" or so off the top (and the spot welds) and then do final fitting.
One thing i did do was for the rear tire carrier nut plate thing, I tacked it to the wheel well and upper spot weld supports so itll be in the same position. I tried to do the same with the ambulance door bracket but it needs a bit of work and honestly is pretty easy to locate with just sharpie marks.
But thats as far as I got. Hopefully in the next few days Ill have it fitted, all the edges cleaned up and weld-thru primer applied, spray inside the frame channels and then get it welded up! Then do it all over again for the other side lol
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- #93
Well I crossed that line of now Im stuck with what I have! Started welding the drivers side rear quarter in. So far it looks decent to mean. Its definitely not going to be straight but Im not to worried about that anyways. End goal is a look good from 10 feet sort of deal....but i plan to take it on trails and itll get pin stripes most likely.
But got the bolt holes drilled and they all lined up enough to work in the front. Then got everything else lined up pretty well (far as I can tell). ill need to get some temporary M6 fasteners to test things out. My welding skills wont impress anyone but after grinding smooth things look decent enough for me. Bit of filler over the seam and itll be good.
Still a decent amount of work to go though. I have to finish up the corner section (its only tacked in) then work the spot weld sections from the inside. The body work kit I got from harbor freight is actually working pretty well for hammering the strip of metal flush to the new quarter.
But plan now is to finish this side up then really give the garage a good cleaning as Ive let it get way to cluttered and dirty. Then I am thinking Ill tackle the rear bed support before starting the passengers side quarter.
But got the bolt holes drilled and they all lined up enough to work in the front. Then got everything else lined up pretty well (far as I can tell). ill need to get some temporary M6 fasteners to test things out. My welding skills wont impress anyone but after grinding smooth things look decent enough for me. Bit of filler over the seam and itll be good.
Still a decent amount of work to go though. I have to finish up the corner section (its only tacked in) then work the spot weld sections from the inside. The body work kit I got from harbor freight is actually working pretty well for hammering the strip of metal flush to the new quarter.
But plan now is to finish this side up then really give the garage a good cleaning as Ive let it get way to cluttered and dirty. Then I am thinking Ill tackle the rear bed support before starting the passengers side quarter.
Story of my life - I was just saying to my wife tonight that until the transfer case rebuild is done, I'm stuck - I have so many parts all over the place I no longer have room to work on any of them!
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- #95
Haha yeah I have way to many projects going on. Behind me in the picture is the riding mower which is getting its yearly maintenance done. Thankfully the gf is pretty understanding on being limited on room. I have parts from FJ40 in the living room, on the kitchen counter, and in the spare bedroom lol. On the plus side when we move in a couple years and build a house Ill be getting a nice big garage 
I did think better as i wanted to spread the wiring harness out on the dining room table....thankfully i thought that one over a bit more as Im pretty sure THAT would have crossed the line!
I did think better as i wanted to spread the wiring harness out on the dining room table....thankfully i thought that one over a bit more as Im pretty sure THAT would have crossed the line!
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- #96
Well thanks for @waiting for time suggestion to add UV dye to the oil on the transfer case I managed to find the leak. Looks like its leaking between the T-case and the extension housing. Even with a new gasket. But I did wipe up the leaked oil to double check when I get home. If that is indeed where its leaking....well its a bit of a relief. Ill just pick up some RTV and use it in addition to the gasket...which Ive had good luck with as a combo when the mating surfaces are perfectly flat. Kind funky that it drips down all the way to the plug. Also the "trail" of oil isn't notable to the naked eye either really.
So the UV dye really worked quite well....although I probably used way to much...ended up dumping a good 3oz of the stuff in 1 quart of oil.
So the UV dye really worked quite well....although I probably used way to much...ended up dumping a good 3oz of the stuff in 1 quart of oil.
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- #97
Its been way to long since I have really spent time on the FJ40. But new flooring is done throughout the house, plus some other projects got done.
But I got back out today. Decided to start working on the passengers side rear quarter panel. Didnt get to far but did get to play with the still pretty new-to-me plasma cutter. Made quick work cutting out the sections around the spot welds. Didnt quite get it all removed but made good progress.
Also got the transfer case leak all taken care of. Got it topped off on fluid and the bypass hose installed and hopefully that will be the last time I have to deal with that!
But I got back out today. Decided to start working on the passengers side rear quarter panel. Didnt get to far but did get to play with the still pretty new-to-me plasma cutter. Made quick work cutting out the sections around the spot welds. Didnt quite get it all removed but made good progress.
Also got the transfer case leak all taken care of. Got it topped off on fluid and the bypass hose installed and hopefully that will be the last time I have to deal with that!
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- #98
Well its slow but progress! Got the passengers side rear quarter in place and tacked. And ran out of wire (which i knew i was going to) so didnt get to weld it up.
But the commuter car started making a grinding sound. Knew it was a bearing more than likely just didnt know which one. But its got 105k miles (and its a 2002) so figured it was time for a new clutch, wheel bearings, water pump, timing belt, and thermostat. So thats my current project and has made the garage quite cramped.
On a positive (sort of) Im pretty sure the noise was from the slave bearing.
But the commuter car started making a grinding sound. Knew it was a bearing more than likely just didnt know which one. But its got 105k miles (and its a 2002) so figured it was time for a new clutch, wheel bearings, water pump, timing belt, and thermostat. So thats my current project and has made the garage quite cramped.
On a positive (sort of) Im pretty sure the noise was from the slave bearing.
Last edited:
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
I used to chase the leaks ... stopped when it was a loosing battle lol
Gaskets all over that tranny/transfer are so thin it’s annoying
Gaskets all over that tranny/transfer are so thin it’s annoying
- Thread starter
- #100
Working nights sucks. Youd think I'd adjust but I still haven't. But I did force myself out into the garage a bit today.
Decided to finally install my new fuel pump....it only took 3 separate orders to get everything (1 for the pump, 1 for the push rod, and 1 for the silly mounting plate). Was pretty easy install wise once I figured out how to do it (never done one before and didn't bother to watch a video)
After that I shifter my focus to the alternator which has been a pain in the butt. The PO used a miss-mash of home made brackets to mount it to the manifolds. I got the Ram Horns with the alternator mounting points but couldn't find a bracket that would work and keep it on the passenger side.. So today was attempt 1 of making a bracket which I quickly realized wouldn't work. You can see it in the bottom of the picture in its far from finished state. So back to the drawing board I go...but I have a pretty good idea what I want to do now and it should actually be easier.
I also picked up some collectors for the ram horns to get an idea on how I want to do the y-pipe and also check clearances. Passenger side is plenty good with ~2" from the frame but the drivers side is going to be fairly close. It was maybe half an inch from the frame. But I can fix that with a bend closer to the manifold.
I also decided to use some of my "rewards bucks" with advanced adapters and bought a new transfer case mounting kit. Since I have to move it back I figured ill replace the hacked up two piece one with a solid, new one. Was it needed? Nah, but itll be nice in the future...or so im telling myself.
The other thing Ill be changing is the bolts. I used some allen head bolts for the manifolds and water pump. And even just sitting in the garage they started rusting. Kind of bummed about that but be easy enough to change them out.
Decided to finally install my new fuel pump....it only took 3 separate orders to get everything (1 for the pump, 1 for the push rod, and 1 for the silly mounting plate). Was pretty easy install wise once I figured out how to do it (never done one before and didn't bother to watch a video)
After that I shifter my focus to the alternator which has been a pain in the butt. The PO used a miss-mash of home made brackets to mount it to the manifolds. I got the Ram Horns with the alternator mounting points but couldn't find a bracket that would work and keep it on the passenger side.. So today was attempt 1 of making a bracket which I quickly realized wouldn't work. You can see it in the bottom of the picture in its far from finished state. So back to the drawing board I go...but I have a pretty good idea what I want to do now and it should actually be easier.
I also picked up some collectors for the ram horns to get an idea on how I want to do the y-pipe and also check clearances. Passenger side is plenty good with ~2" from the frame but the drivers side is going to be fairly close. It was maybe half an inch from the frame. But I can fix that with a bend closer to the manifold.
I also decided to use some of my "rewards bucks" with advanced adapters and bought a new transfer case mounting kit. Since I have to move it back I figured ill replace the hacked up two piece one with a solid, new one. Was it needed? Nah, but itll be nice in the future...or so im telling myself.
The other thing Ill be changing is the bolts. I used some allen head bolts for the manifolds and water pump. And even just sitting in the garage they started rusting. Kind of bummed about that but be easy enough to change them out.
