Valve adjustment overview (1 Viewer)

[cbmontgo]

I have read the FAQ again and again about valve adjustments and want to put it all together and make sure that this way will work. Please comment if this is not a workable way (and I know there are other ways, but this is what I am looking to do):

With engine hot and at operating temp,

*SET # 1 (FRONT) CYLINDER TO TDC BY LINING UP THE LINE ON THE FLYWHEEL

*VERIFY COMPRESSION STROKE (NOT EXHAUST STROKE) BY CHECKING THAT DISTRIBUTOR POINTS TO THE # 1 CYLINDER WIRE. (PISTON WILL BE AT TOP OF # 1 CYLINDER).

*ADJUST VALVES 1,2,3,5,7,9 TO .008 INTAKE AND .014 EXHAUST

*TURN FLYWHEEL/CRANKSHAFT 360 DEGREES (DISTRIBUTOR WILL TURN 180 DEGREES); LINES SHOULD MATCH UP AGAIN ON FLYWHEELS AND DISTRIBUTOR SHOULD POINT TO # 6 CYLINDER

*ADJUST VALVES 4,6,8,10,11,12 TO .008 INTAKE AND .014 EXHAUST

I know there is the engine running and engine not running debate, but is this a workable way? Any big picture stuff that I'm missing?

 

[subzali]

Sounds good to me. I don't know what diagram you're looking at that has the valves numbered, but it will be obvious which valves you are able to adjust when you get into it.

I read a thread not long ago where someone said it something like this, made sense to me:
1. It is possible on a F/2F to check the valve lash with the engine running if you want. It can save time, but there is nothing wrong with checking the valve lash with the engine off either.
2. It is recommended to adjust the valves with the engine not running (just because it's easier because stuff's not moving). Once they are adjusted, they won't likely move much, hence you can go to #1 every once in a while just to see where they're at.

 

[cbmontgo]

Sounds good to me. I don't know what diagram you're looking at that has the valves numbered, but it will be obvious which valves you are able to adjust when you get into it.

I read a thread not long ago where someone said it something like this, made sense to me:
1. It is possible on a F/2F to check the valve lash with the engine running if you want. It can save time, but there is nothing wrong with checking the valve lash with the engine off either.
2. It is recommended to adjust the valves with the engine not running (just because it's easier because stuff's not moving). Once they are adjusted, they won't likely move much, hence you can go to #1 every once in a while just to see where they're at.

Great point. Thanks Matt.

 

[Pighead]

Please comment if this is not a workable way

That will work.

 

[John McVicker]

You have a good working plan...and not to to confuse you but,some folks adj. to 8 & 16. They tend to tighten up as you put on miles.

Which way to go is really a personal preference. Might consider some more search.

fyi, John

 

[RicardoJM]

That approach will work just fine. With it being winter, if you pull it into the garage and close the door, the engine will stay warmer longer. If it cools down, just start it back up and let it heat up again.

 

[cbmontgo]

Thanks, fellas.

 

[Mark W]

If you do it cold... the difference will be within the normal variances of personal judgment of too tight or too loose on the feeler gauge. Toyota says warm. In the real world it makes little difference. The engine will not cool enough to matter while you are doing it unless you are crazy slow or decide to take a lunch break in the middle.


Mark...

 

[Pin_Head]

There are lots of ways to do it and they all work. I prefer to check them while running and adjust them when stopped because it is fast and most of them will not need adjustment.

 

[subzali]

I thought that was you that had said that Pin_Head but didn't want to put your name on that statement in case I was wrong...

 

[Pin_Head]

I thought that was you that had said that Pin_Head but didn't want to put your name on that statement in case I was wrong...

It is OK. You can attribute anything profound that you want to me becuase I am just some anonymous poster on the internet and not a real person. How many people are going to go and tell their girl friend that they screwed up their truck by taking the advise of some Pin Head on the net?

 

[IDave]

It is OK. You can attribute anything profound that you want to me becuase I am just some anonymous poster on the internet and not a real person. How many people are going to go and tell their girl friend that they screwed up their truck by taking the advise of some Pin Head on the net?

I have been doing it Pin_Head's way for years*. Wait until my wife finds out from my girlfriend!
















*also because that's how the Toyota Engine Manual says to do it....

 

[cbmontgo]

It is OK. You can attribute anything profound that you want to me becuase I am just some anonymous poster on the internet and not a real person. How many people are going to go and tell their girl friend that they screwed up their truck by taking the advise of some Pin Head on the net?

Ha! Awesome...

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

I like this method.

Seattle Cruiserheads | Valves

However for the 40 I skip the remote starter, put it 4th gear and just push the truck to turn the engine

 

[cbmontgo]

I like this method.

Seattle Cruiserheads | Valves

However for the 40 I skip the remote starter, put it 4th gear and just push the truck to turn the engine

That is a helpful link. Thanks for posting.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

I like to do it running... I like the Challenge! LoL! (Actually, it's because I'm lazy and don't like the hassle of trying to find the mark and make sure it's a top dead center...)

 

[bsevans]

I like to do it running... I like the Challenge! LoL! (Actually, it's because I'm lazy and don't like the hassle of trying to find the mark and make sure it's a top dead center...)

Yea, I used to do it that way when I first bought my 40 some 26 years ago. After a number of idle adjustments, I got tired of the denting of my feeler gauges. I currently use a Snap-On feeler gauge holder marked green on one end and red on the other end with .008"/.010" and .014"/.016" Go/No Go feeler gauges installed. I check the valves running and make a note of which ones need adjusting. I do the adjusting with the engine off.

 

[akeyzoo]

Not having had the opportunity to adjust my valves yet, I have a noob question! Wouldn't doing this while running make a godawful mess with oil splashing everywhere?

Chris

 

[Pighead]

Wouldn't doing this while running make a godawful mess with oil splashing everywhere?

Chris

Well, yes and no. The oil really doesn't squirt out and splash everywhere, but it does run down the side of the engine, hit the header and catch on fire if your rig is tilted that way...

 

[Fast Eddy]

Not having had the opportunity to adjust my valves yet, I have a noob question! Wouldn't doing this while running make a godawful mess with oil splashing everywhere?

A 2f has less pressure to the top end than a chevy and the flat top of the engine allows most of the oil to drain back down.

If you tried this with a V8 all the oil would be on the ground before you were done.