V-8 Conversion Cooling
- Thread starter Elbert
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Moby
GOLD Star
Well, if email == talking, then, yes, I've talked to him several times over the last few years. He can be hard to get a hold of though.
Moby
GOLD Star
Yes, that is what my upgrade alternator was designed for (Wrangler/NW Power Products built me a custom 175 amp unit using the stock case). It puts out more at idle with my SPAL fans running than the stock unit ever could (which basically just ran on the batteries at idle as far as I could tell if you even had the HVAC fan on, and that was with a OEM rebuilt unit).
Has anyone run a FlowKooler water pump plus water wetter .
- Thread starter
- #67
I have not.... my view is the if you have a marginal cooling setup the water pump and water wetter are normally not the solution.
I think the GM OEM water pumps do a good job and last many years.
I think the GM OEM water pumps do a good job and last many years.
- Thread starter
- #68
cooling soluton parts showed up from Rock Auto. FYI Fan and FAN clutch from 1999 Yukon. I'm sure its a common part across teh GM line with 5.7 engine of that year. Blade is roughly 19 inches. Got to round up the right bolts to attach fan to clutch and I'll be ready to see if I have about a 1/ 2 to a inch clearance at teh radiator.
If I punch a hole in the raditor ... "there's the sign"... dumb@$$ at work!
If I punch a hole in the raditor ... "there's the sign"... dumb@$$ at work!
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ntsqd
technerd
I had a vehicle that I could not make run cool. The PO had put a pump on it just prior to my buying it, so I worked with everything else. I was able to make it cool better, but not enough. I finally bought a Stewart Stage 1 water pump for it. Then I had a car that I couldn't easily warm up, but held it's temp no matter how hard I flogged it.
I wouldn't bother with Water Wetter. Don't take that the wrong way, it does what it supposed to do and is great stuff, but you should not rely on it. Build the cooling system to work without it, and then add it if you want some additional piece of mind. Read up on it too, as I recall it really doesn't want to be added to coolant - only to water. Works in coolant and not a problem, just nowhere near as effective. I could be wrong there, but I don't think so.
Its a good idea to remove all the air from your cooling system before you add your coolant.
rover67
SILVER Star
I used to run water wetter in a 67 Mini that I built a really hot (relatively speaking)1380cc motor for. Even with two radiators it never wanted to stay cool on a road course when it was 100 degrees outside. The water wetter helped a little (maybe it was just me thinking it did), but the real problem was that there was simply not enough cooling capacity in the system to keep it cool while putting all the whopping 125 or so ponies to the pavement. Seemed like more of a bandaid that worked marginally at best for another bigger problem.
- Thread starter
- #74
welll you can't do that... But I assume you are saying to remove the air out of the system as you fill it (to the extent you can) and then to "bled" the air out of the system once you think its full to get the air pockets out.
LC is a pain in the but to bled...with the stock I-6, rear heater, and associated hard line. Numerous discussion about bleeding the sir off. Basically you need the air of the system and that is displaced by coolant...so you don' t get air poickets in the cooling system.
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ntsqd
technerd
Better is to convert the system to be self-purging of air, and even better is to do so in a swirlpot. Both of those concepts are beyond what we're talking about here. Corvettes starting in the 60's used the former design. I can't say that I've ever seen a swirlpot on anything that wasn't a race car.
I agree on the Water Wetter though I wouldn't call it a Band-Aid, but it sure can be used as one in a pinch!
~125HP out of a 1400cc push-rod engine is more than just a little hot!!!!
- Thread starter
- #76
fan clutch & fan
Guys...don't get me to "eye-ball" anything in the future...looks like I was way off.
Electric fans were a little bit of a $%^& to get off, but that's due to the great job I did when I put them on..well maybe the great job.
As you see in the pics....fan has about 3 inch clearance from the radiator core, and about 1.5 inch from the radiator core to the fan clutch, checked with a tape measure...as my previous history not so good at estimation. May be hard to see in these pics but fan / engine does not sit square with the radiator. I think that can be corrected with some adjustments in teh fron engine mounts.
What my problem is right now..(1) lack of a shroud and the (2) the fan is just barely rubbing the lower radiator hose.
So...to make things right .... I can get the lower radiator water neck moved to the passenger side maybe an inch to 2 inches (purely guessing), or swap out the straight water neck with a 45 degre offset to the passenger side...or potentially lower the radiator mounts by an inch or so.
I did not run the engine this afternoon as I my fan blade is just rubbing the hose and would cut through it or damage the fan. I may try and just get a rope to put a little pressure on the hose for clearance ...just to test run the engine (redneck test method)
Here is where I'm at now.
I did not account very well for how the clutch sits forward of the fan and also how far the fan clutch nut runs down on the water pump stud...which gaines a good bit of room.
Guys...don't get me to "eye-ball" anything in the future...looks like I was way off.
Electric fans were a little bit of a $%^& to get off, but that's due to the great job I did when I put them on..well maybe the great job.
As you see in the pics....fan has about 3 inch clearance from the radiator core, and about 1.5 inch from the radiator core to the fan clutch, checked with a tape measure...as my previous history not so good at estimation. May be hard to see in these pics but fan / engine does not sit square with the radiator. I think that can be corrected with some adjustments in teh fron engine mounts.
What my problem is right now..(1) lack of a shroud and the (2) the fan is just barely rubbing the lower radiator hose.
So...to make things right .... I can get the lower radiator water neck moved to the passenger side maybe an inch to 2 inches (purely guessing), or swap out the straight water neck with a 45 degre offset to the passenger side...or potentially lower the radiator mounts by an inch or so.
I did not run the engine this afternoon as I my fan blade is just rubbing the hose and would cut through it or damage the fan. I may try and just get a rope to put a little pressure on the hose for clearance ...just to test run the engine (redneck test method)
Here is where I'm at now.
I did not account very well for how the clutch sits forward of the fan and also how far the fan clutch nut runs down on the water pump stud...which gaines a good bit of room.
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Has anyone seen AIRLIFT by UView ???????? must not work Ive had one for ten years.I use it every time it pulls a vacuum on my cooling system and fills my cooling system with out any air pockets.
- Thread starter
- #78
Has anyone seen AIRLIFT by UView ???????? must not work Ive had one for ten years.I use it every time it pulls a vacuum on my cooling system and fills my cooling system with out any air pockets.
well if there is a way to do this..then I stand corrected. I for one have not seen a "tool" that does this.
Maybe I'm just not that well informed...how about some pics. Yeah ok...I see some via google. Is this thing more of a bleeder.. So how do you fill the system while mantain the vaccum on the FJ60 radiator setup?
Has anyone seen AIRLIFT by UView ???????? must not work Ive had one for ten years.I use it every time it pulls a vacuum on my cooling system and fills my cooling system with out any air pockets.
Never heard of it before. Interesting, how many inches of Vacuum does it actually pull?
If it was truly "no air" the radiator hoses would collapse.
Pretty cool
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt...50000_airlift_cooling_system_leak_checke.html
- Thread starter
- #80
See my notes... hard to tell but how are you setup on the lower readiator hose clearance between fan blade. Just got the mechancical fan on...fan blade just barely rubs lower hose. My fan blade is from a 1999 5.7. But the design of the clutch and setup looks like these things will interchange with each other..the 5.7 and 5.3 and maybe the 6.0 engines, noticed the fan blade design is a little differnet in regard to the shape of the blades and maybe the number. in comparison to my engine.. What year model is your engine and are you running the matching fan blade? What's the width of the fan blade...? mine is around 19 inches. The fan clutch design between the two engines looks very smilar...with fan clutch forward.
