It pulls 24-26 inches and radiator hoses start collapse.I have sold many of these kits and no returns.
V-8 Conversion Cooling
- Thread starter Elbert
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I just built a fiberglass shroud to today. I also noticed when I had everything apart my belt was pretty rough and it looked like my fan clutch was going so I replaced that as well. I had a junk yard clutch on when I did the swap and I'm pretty sure it wasn't even the right clutch. The new one I picked up from Napa really throws some air. I'm going to take it up north tonight so I'll see what it does but I really wasn't having cooling problems before other than a/c on in 115 heat so hopefully it can only get better from there.
I tried making a shroud with some old ones but I eventually gave up and just bit the bullet and made the fiberglass one. Its not to hard just time consuming but its really stout and fits perfectly.
I tried making a shroud with some old ones but I eventually gave up and just bit the bullet and made the fiberglass one. Its not to hard just time consuming but its really stout and fits perfectly.
- Thread starter
- #84
just dawned on me... if we have enough room to get the engine "square" with the radiator..then maybe my issue with the fan blade hitting the lower hose may go away. Currentlyt to get it sqaure...the engine needs to move further to the drivers side.... but there is not a lof ot avaliable space.... p/s pump is relatively close to the driver side frame rail.
IF the engine moved probally 1/2 and inch that would clear...got to see what we need for room to mount shroud and what we end up doing on shroud.
IF the engine moved probally 1/2 and inch that would clear...got to see what we need for room to mount shroud and what we end up doing on shroud.
- Thread starter
- #85
That looks really nice. I may try that...only one issue with that..is most likely the radiator will have to come out to mount it or to remove it? What happens if you need to change the belt...the whole thing has to come out. It looks like it would really assist cooling.
I'm hoping we can do something in aluminiumn... I may see what I can do with a shroud, just to try it out.
Thanks
We mounted my engine 1/2" to driver and it took a bit of work. The PS pump had to be spaced outboard of the frame using a plate spacer, and the transmission crossmember had to be machined to elongate the mounting holes. Good luck!
Finally got a good run on mine after getting the trans shift issue figured out. Did one day at 104F and never got above 202F with out the electric fan with the elec turned on only got to 195F. Did a long run yesterday at 100F in stop and go and only hit 198F. I am running stock mech fan and using the 16" electric as backup and shroud. My big test will be pulling my boat out here in 105-110F, but all looks good so far.
rover67
SILVER Star
My fan and fan clutch are from an '03 silverado. I *think* my motor is out of a truck (silverado) or van (express).
I'll go take another look at where the hose sits with respect to the fan and measure the fan diameter.
- Thread starter
- #89
Ok.. we made a little headway on my cooling transformation. Got the engine fairly square with the radiator...then deicided we need to have the radiator modified. Needed smaller neck at the top so the radiator hose from a 99 GM Truck would work , and then moved the bottom neck to the far right location to give us some clearnce for the radiator fan and shroud.
Got started on the shroud and then figured we really needed to start over. TIght clearances to work with and it was decided to call it a day this afternoon and try again next week due to work schedules.
The fan shroud is turning into a pain in the @$$ but then again seems like we have to try two or three different ways of working some of this stuf.
Might be helpful to build up a full cardboard model ...going to approach it again next time with a little bit different strategy.
Once we get the shroud done...I think cooling is going to be a non-issue. I'm using a 4 core brass radiator...with fan and fan clutch from 99 SUV/Truck with 5.7 engine...fan is approx 19.5 in diameter.
Got started on the shroud and then figured we really needed to start over. TIght clearances to work with and it was decided to call it a day this afternoon and try again next week due to work schedules.
The fan shroud is turning into a pain in the @$$ but then again seems like we have to try two or three different ways of working some of this stuf.
Might be helpful to build up a full cardboard model ...going to approach it again next time with a little bit different strategy.
Once we get the shroud done...I think cooling is going to be a non-issue. I'm using a 4 core brass radiator...with fan and fan clutch from 99 SUV/Truck with 5.7 engine...fan is approx 19.5 in diameter.
- Thread starter
- #91
brass 4 core radiator installed, reduced top water neck to work with radiator hose from 99 GM SUV, moved bottom water neck to the far right to help clear shroud. Installed GM radiator fan and clutch from 99GM SUV with 5.7 vortec. Friend installed and built fan shroud. So far driving around for a combined hour or so...temp have not exceed 200F. Also engine cools off at idle..185F or so. Still more testing to see how it works but so far it works really well. Fan works well, shroud goes back to about an inch of the A/C compressor and pretty much covers the fan blades, have about 3/4 inch clearance around fan. Will post pics I just took a little later...hope they are not too dark.
Need to come up with a lower radiator hose that works well...have not found one so far. May have to go with one of those "fit-all" types and just get the right length.
I don't know why I did not do this to start with...guess I just did not pay attention to how far the radiaor fan & clutch screw down on the water pump pulley, which allows reasonable clearnce...all I can say is live and learn. I should have at least installed the fan setup on the engine way back when we initally installed the engine but hindsight is beautiful.
Need to come up with a lower radiator hose that works well...have not found one so far. May have to go with one of those "fit-all" types and just get the right length.
I don't know why I did not do this to start with...guess I just did not pay attention to how far the radiaor fan & clutch screw down on the water pump pulley, which allows reasonable clearnce...all I can say is live and learn. I should have at least installed the fan setup on the engine way back when we initally installed the engine but hindsight is beautiful.
ntsqd
technerd
FWIW you've helped me to do exactly that, put the fan & clutch up there and look at it for clearance.
- Thread starter
- #93
FYI.. I'm using OEM GM fan clutch for the 99 SUV with 5.7 Vortec. Its the style with the large single nut that screws down on the water pump pulley. Lot of threads there so it really gains some room once screwed down.
I don't look forward to having to take the thing apart though....as I may have to take the radiator out to swap out the fan or work on the front of the engine if I have to.
A/C is next on the list.
I don't look forward to having to take the thing apart though....as I may have to take the radiator out to swap out the fan or work on the front of the engine if I have to.
A/C is next on the list.
- Thread starter
- #96
have a new A/C compressor to install shortly and hopefully A/C setup will not be too painful and we will not run into too many problems. Still debating on going R12 or R134. My friend Les gets the credit for the shroud work....and helping me with the install. Every now and then I'll think of something worth considering.
Your shroud looks pretty similar to the one Ron made for me at Custom Cruisers. I'm also using the factory 5.7 clutch fan but am using an aftermarket coolant bottle off the shelf of my local parts store.
I'll have to check my receipt, but I think this is the hose I used: Summit Racing SUM-390024 - Summit Racing® Stainless Steel Flexible Hoses - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Yours is looking good.
Last edited:
Off Duty
SILVER Star
240 is high, but it depends on how long the temp stayed there.
He mentioned "on the longest of grade."
If it spiked 240 and came back down, especially loaded as he was and and the grade, I wouldn't worry about it.
What was the normal operating temp and how long did you see 240?
In all my GMs, vette, camaro, etc., the "norm" was 180-210 depending.
I've hit higher temps after a race or other beating, but it's again, only been momentary and back down to normal.
What about a redundant system. Use mech backed up by the electric?
He mentioned "on the longest of grade."
If it spiked 240 and came back down, especially loaded as he was and and the grade, I wouldn't worry about it.
What was the normal operating temp and how long did you see 240?
In all my GMs, vette, camaro, etc., the "norm" was 180-210 depending.
I've hit higher temps after a race or other beating, but it's again, only been momentary and back down to normal.
What about a redundant system. Use mech backed up by the electric?
- Thread starter
- #100
OyajiJon,
Your setup looks nice, yes your shroud looks similar. What radiator are you using. Looks like you have adapted an aftermarket radiaor. Let us know which one and how its mounted.
What are kind of temps are you seeing in normal ops? I've only had mine running for a day or two now with this setup. At extended idle 183-190F, driving down the road 190-198F or so. Have not really stressed the truck yet as far as long steep grades (don't have anything like that close). I should note that I run a 180F thermostat.
Even more important to me....(I sent you a PM). I'm looking for specific notes on how people have wired their alternator (GM alternator to Toyota Wiring Harness and Battery). What color wires from the toyota harness go where and connect to what terminals on the GM alternator and then how is that connecting to the battery. Currently I'm running a aftermarket GM single wire 140 amp alternator. I want to go back to the stock style GM alternator. Apprectiate if anyone can provide specific details on this....pictures, notes...etc. I dont want to let the smoke out of the fusable link again
Your setup looks nice, yes your shroud looks similar. What radiator are you using. Looks like you have adapted an aftermarket radiaor. Let us know which one and how its mounted.
What are kind of temps are you seeing in normal ops? I've only had mine running for a day or two now with this setup. At extended idle 183-190F, driving down the road 190-198F or so. Have not really stressed the truck yet as far as long steep grades (don't have anything like that close). I should note that I run a 180F thermostat.
Even more important to me....(I sent you a PM). I'm looking for specific notes on how people have wired their alternator (GM alternator to Toyota Wiring Harness and Battery). What color wires from the toyota harness go where and connect to what terminals on the GM alternator and then how is that connecting to the battery. Currently I'm running a aftermarket GM single wire 140 amp alternator. I want to go back to the stock style GM alternator. Apprectiate if anyone can provide specific details on this....pictures, notes...etc. I dont want to let the smoke out of the fusable link again
Last edited:
