- Thread starter
- #21
V-8 Conversion Cooling
- Thread starter Elbert
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
ntsqd
technerd
For those concerned about eating the radiator with the fan:
~2/3 down the page:
B.C. Broncos - 66-77 Early Bronco Engine Cooling Systems
$35 at time of posting.
~2/3 down the page:
B.C. Broncos - 66-77 Early Bronco Engine Cooling Systems
$35 at time of posting.
- Thread starter
- #23
For those concerned about eating the radiator with the fan:
~2/3 down the page:
B.C. Broncos - 66-77 Early Bronco Engine Cooling Systems
$35 at time of posting.
what the "hey" is that thing... some kind of shield?
Elbert, I run a MK VIII fan on my rig and pull a trailer from time to time... No cooling issues here.. 2 years now.
Except when going up a grade (with trailer) and the outside temp is 105F in Nevada/ Utah, then I might turn off the AC and roll my window down but that's been only once.
I use this fan controller and love it.
It run's at 10% at any given time and gradually goes up or down depending on the radiator fluid temp.. I usually run 198F to 200F in town or hwy speeds..
Fan Control
No doubt a mechanical fan would be the simpler solution.
I also put some louvers on and that's help with heat dissipation
Goodluck !!
Except when going up a grade (with trailer) and the outside temp is 105F in Nevada/ Utah, then I might turn off the AC and roll my window down but that's been only once.
I use this fan controller and love it.
It run's at 10% at any given time and gradually goes up or down depending on the radiator fluid temp.. I usually run 198F to 200F in town or hwy speeds..
Fan Control
No doubt a mechanical fan would be the simpler solution.
I also put some louvers on and that's help with heat dissipation
Goodluck !!
I'm hoping so. I,m going to give making one a shot this week. The only thing is even on the highway at 70 the a/c still keeps the temps at about 210-215 compared to about the 200 I normally run with a/c off.
ntsqd
technerd
radiator guard, keeps the fan blades from being able to get to the radiator's tubes & fins. I don't think that I'd run one, but someone voiced a concern about how close the fan might be to the radiator and this offers a some peace of mind.
rover67
SILVER Star
So I was running the contour setup for a while and was really pleased with it.
I decided to change to the mechanical setup with GM parts to try and get the cooling system closer to OEM parts to reduce the chances for failure (like no fans come on if there is an electrical problem).
Anyways, I did it and LOVE it. Way better than the countour fans I was raving about the past few years. The engine temp is much more stable and it cools even better.
Anywho, I took a stock shroud for the 2F radiator (I am running a stock rad) and cut it and welded it to make it work with the GM fan and fan clutch. I also found some hoses that work right and was even able to build a little burrito holder/heater into the shroud. I've eaten lunch from it probably 20 times already.
For the AC, I bought a small fan from summit, set it up as a pusher, stuck it on the front of the AC condenser and I trigger it with the same wire that goes to the compressor clutch through a relay.
I don't know if I need it since at idle the mechanical fan still pulls a lot of air, but I did it anyways. IF the AC compressor came on without the electric fans before the freon would overheat and the pressure releif would pop on the compressor.
I spent a week in the Utah desert with it blowing AC the whole time and it did great. Dosen't overheat when idling for a long time (aired 3 trucks up) while airing up with the AC on for the lady either (york)
I can take some pics tomorrow.
I decided to change to the mechanical setup with GM parts to try and get the cooling system closer to OEM parts to reduce the chances for failure (like no fans come on if there is an electrical problem).
Anyways, I did it and LOVE it. Way better than the countour fans I was raving about the past few years. The engine temp is much more stable and it cools even better.
Anywho, I took a stock shroud for the 2F radiator (I am running a stock rad) and cut it and welded it to make it work with the GM fan and fan clutch. I also found some hoses that work right and was even able to build a little burrito holder/heater into the shroud. I've eaten lunch from it probably 20 times already.
For the AC, I bought a small fan from summit, set it up as a pusher, stuck it on the front of the AC condenser and I trigger it with the same wire that goes to the compressor clutch through a relay.
I don't know if I need it since at idle the mechanical fan still pulls a lot of air, but I did it anyways. IF the AC compressor came on without the electric fans before the freon would overheat and the pressure releif would pop on the compressor.
I spent a week in the Utah desert with it blowing AC the whole time and it did great. Dosen't overheat when idling for a long time (aired 3 trucks up) while airing up with the AC on for the lady either (york)
I can take some pics tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #28
Yeah... I msg you about some pics.
As discussed I want to go down the road of "simplicity nirvana"..(no extra credit for spelling).
man...I just don't have much room between my water pump and the radiator core.
Thinking about changing to the other AA adatper that allows the trans to bolt directly to the bellhousing...move my engine back a few inches and making other mods as necessary. Then incorproate GM fan and fan clutch (like stock for this engine) and build a shroud to match.
I ran electric fans because of the space limitation.
I do plan as well either using a GM pusher fan I already have (99 3/4 ton trucks had a optional pusher fan that came on with A/C that sat out in front of the condensor) kind of cool with its own brackets...or use a nice SPAL pusher in front of the condensor.
Also want to install a "cool" GM p/s cooler of a 3/4 ton truck.
Post up pics and details...any lessons learned... what's you experience with temps (on road vs. off road ) and with A/C on?
Seems like we are on the same path. You just seem to get here before I do.
As discussed I want to go down the road of "simplicity nirvana"..(no extra credit for spelling).
man...I just don't have much room between my water pump and the radiator core.
Thinking about changing to the other AA adatper that allows the trans to bolt directly to the bellhousing...move my engine back a few inches and making other mods as necessary. Then incorproate GM fan and fan clutch (like stock for this engine) and build a shroud to match.
I ran electric fans because of the space limitation.
I do plan as well either using a GM pusher fan I already have (99 3/4 ton trucks had a optional pusher fan that came on with A/C that sat out in front of the condensor) kind of cool with its own brackets...or use a nice SPAL pusher in front of the condensor.
Also want to install a "cool" GM p/s cooler of a 3/4 ton truck.
Post up pics and details...any lessons learned... what's you experience with temps (on road vs. off road ) and with A/C on?
Seems like we are on the same path. You just seem to get here before I do.
They are awesome...
ntsqd
technerd
I've no problem at all with the idea. What I don't like is how that particular unit is mounted.
rover67
SILVER Star
Here are some pictures of my latest setup.. lots of shots, but I figure it's worth it to really see how it fits. I took a stock FJ60 shroud and modified it. I built it with the little lip on the bottom instead of a full ring so I could pull it out without taking the radiator of fan out of it. I have done mine and one more like this and they seem to still channel the air really well. It moves a ton of air when the clutch is engaged..
Last edited:
rover67
SILVER Star
more shots of it installed. Note the burrito tray 
It was kind of an accident that it turnied into one, but it works really really well. The upper hose was from Napa, PN 8991 and it fits really well. I kind of had to squeeze it on the stock radiator inlet, but it works.
It was kind of an accident that it turnied into one, but it works really really well. The upper hose was from Napa, PN 8991 and it fits really well. I kind of had to squeeze it on the stock radiator inlet, but it works.
Last edited:
rover67
SILVER Star
The lower hose was one I found at O'Riely's a while back. The shot near the fuel lines is to try to show engine placement for and aft. After having done a few of these I have noticed that the heater hard line clears that right rear coil pack barely if it is placed in a good compromised position. there is maybe a half inch of clearance there. not that usefull for those of you with earlier motors, but what the heck.
rover67
SILVER Star
One more shot from the pass. side and some more shots from the drivers side
rover67
SILVER Star
and a few shots of the auxiliary fan in front of the condenser set up as a pusher to come on when the AC compressor clutch kicks on. I used some of the wiring from my original setup for it. The mechanical fan moves a ton of air at idle, but I didn't want to chance it since I finished the setup basically a few days before Cruise Moab 2010. I noticed that without the old electric fans running while the AC was on the freon would overpressurize and blow out of the release on the compressor. Again, probably overkill but I didn't want to do it again.
rover67
SILVER Star
I have about 3 1/2" between the radiator core and the front of the fan clutch.... maybe there is a big difference in the newer motors..
I have a big tranny cooler in front of my condenser that I have the Power steering plumbed through. The fluid was overheating with the 35's on tight tight trails. I don't have that problem anymore.
As far as temps go, the needle stays at about a quarter (I forget what temp that was) when it is stopped no matter what the outside temp is. When I get going it drops a bit and stays there. i don't knwo whay it does that but the other one I did does the same thing. I simply cannot get it to even get slose to overheating. Even with the AC on, at idle, with the york running, in the desert, and when it is HOT outside.
Lessons learned are:
-The contour fans work really well, but..
-when the contour fans quit running there is not enough air moving through the radiator to keep it cool all the time
-the countour fans from autozone kinda suck. the motors came unbolted on me and their quality is not there.
-one fan on the countour fan running "kinda" kept it cool, but it slowly overheated on the trail.
-power draw from the countour fans seemed SIGNIFICANT.
-The stock setup is simple and I still get good gas mileage. I got 15.5MPG loaded, and I mean loaded with 2 bikes on top this past week.
-The countour fans interfered with my HAM and CB radios. It was always annoying but I knew when they clicked on
-It is comforting to hear the fan clutch working on hills and at idle
-sometimes the contour fans would cool the truck too much. once it actually threw a code for the motor running too cool. Probably the way I had it wired. I'd force them on a lot.
I have a big tranny cooler in front of my condenser that I have the Power steering plumbed through. The fluid was overheating with the 35's on tight tight trails. I don't have that problem anymore.
As far as temps go, the needle stays at about a quarter (I forget what temp that was) when it is stopped no matter what the outside temp is. When I get going it drops a bit and stays there. i don't knwo whay it does that but the other one I did does the same thing. I simply cannot get it to even get slose to overheating. Even with the AC on, at idle, with the york running, in the desert, and when it is HOT outside.
Lessons learned are:
-The contour fans work really well, but..
-when the contour fans quit running there is not enough air moving through the radiator to keep it cool all the time
-the countour fans from autozone kinda suck. the motors came unbolted on me and their quality is not there.
-one fan on the countour fan running "kinda" kept it cool, but it slowly overheated on the trail.
-power draw from the countour fans seemed SIGNIFICANT.
-The stock setup is simple and I still get good gas mileage. I got 15.5MPG loaded, and I mean loaded with 2 bikes on top this past week.
-The countour fans interfered with my HAM and CB radios. It was always annoying but I knew when they clicked on
-It is comforting to hear the fan clutch working on hills and at idle
-sometimes the contour fans would cool the truck too much. once it actually threw a code for the motor running too cool. Probably the way I had it wired. I'd force them on a lot.
Yeah... I msg you about some pics.
As discussed I want to go down the road of "simplicity nirvana"..(no extra credit for spelling).
man...I just don't have much room between my water pump and the radiator core.
Thinking about changing to the other AA adatper that allows the trans to bolt directly to the bellhousing...move my engine back a few inches and making other mods as necessary. Then incorproate GM fan and fan clutch (like stock for this engine) and build a shroud to match.
I ran electric fans because of the space limitation.
I do plan as well either using a GM pusher fan I already have (99 3/4 ton trucks had a optional pusher fan that came on with A/C that sat out in front of the condensor) kind of cool with its own brackets...or use a nice SPAL pusher in front of the condensor.
Also want to install a "cool" GM p/s cooler of a 3/4 ton truck.
Post up pics and details...any lessons learned... what's you experience with temps (on road vs. off road ) and with A/C on?
Seems like we are on the same path. You just seem to get here before I do.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #37
good deal...but from where I sit...you have more room between the radiator and the water pump than I do. That's my main problem or I would have done something similiar. I'll take a pic or two this afternoon to illustrate.
- Thread starter
- #38
contour fans pics at Radiator
showing the approx distance at the radiator.
not the best pics...but.. roughly holding a string (plumb line) dead on the end of the water pump end...I have approx 4 inches to the radiator core.
showing the approx distance at the radiator.
not the best pics...but.. roughly holding a string (plumb line) dead on the end of the water pump end...I have approx 4 inches to the radiator core.
- Thread starter
- #39
similar illustration attempt.
Other pics show generally the distance between the driver and passenger side of the engine at teh cylinder head / valve cover to the firewall and from the distributor the firewall. Heare I have appox 5 inches from the valve covers and a little more from the dist cap to the firewall.
I may .. attempt to move the engine back roughly 4 inches or more...while giving room to remove cylinder heads and or distirbutor if needed.
Notice how the nice chinese rams horn manifolds have rusted...
Other pics show generally the distance between the driver and passenger side of the engine at teh cylinder head / valve cover to the firewall and from the distributor the firewall. Heare I have appox 5 inches from the valve covers and a little more from the dist cap to the firewall.
I may .. attempt to move the engine back roughly 4 inches or more...while giving room to remove cylinder heads and or distirbutor if needed.
Notice how the nice chinese rams horn manifolds have rusted...
Last edited:
