Use the Toyota Red Gasket Stuff when replacing Diffs (1 Viewer)

[Romer]

If you plan on removing your differentials to regear or for other reasons, I recommend you not rely on only the paper gasket.

I used the OEM gasket after my re-gear and both ended up leaking.

We pulled the rear and applied a new gasket and the red stuff on to ensure a good seal between the diff and the gasket.

The front one is a pain because you have to tear down the axles, so as a temporary fix I made a bead of FPIG (Black gasket stuff) around the outside and removed the nuts on a couple places that were leaking and filled that with FPIG and torqued the nuts back. It's important to drain the diff and clean off the oil with brake cleaner or other before applying the FPIG. It's been two days and there are no leaks, at worst it will leak a few drops a day like before. This is the method Dan suggested as he had a similar problem.

I forget the official name of the red gasket stuff, but you can order it from Dan or any other Toyota dealer and I highly recommend using it if you need to pull your differential for any reason.

 

[cruiserdan]

It's called FIPG or Form In Place Gasket.

The red is used in gear boxes, 00295-01281 and the black, 00295-00103, in engines.

 

[Romer]

Thanks old wise shaman and for your suggestion as I was about to do a front axle tear down after only 7 months.

 

[Adam B]

I've never used a paper gasket and never will. I've also never used Toyota FIPG. I don't see what people's obsession with the stuff is. It costs twice as much as similar products and they all work equally well if you use them properly.

I've probably swapped over a dozen Toyota 8" thirds and all I've ever used is Permatex Blue or Grey RTV - I've never leaked a drop and had absolutely no seapage. Just make sure you scrape off the old crap and clean both mating surfaces with brake cleaner or something similar and you'll be fine.

Same goes for oil pans. Never use a cork gasket and don't bother with Toyota FIPG. Permatex orange RTV, surfaces prepped, don't over-tighten the bolts and you won't leak a drop.

No offense to those who are obsessed with "genuine" Toyota stuff...

 

[cruiserdan]

You are not concerned about the mis-alignment (really tiny but still there) when you omit the gasket?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I install the paper gaskets with gray Permatex. It works great, and no leaks. Theoretically, the black Permatex might be better, but gray is what I always have around.

 

[80jay]

my personal favorite Honda Bond works great also..

 

[Tools R Us]

You are not concerned about the mis-alignment (really tiny but still there) when you omit the gasket?

I have never done an 80 axle this way, but have done tons of other cruisers and mini diffs with form in place, mostly Permatex products, never seen an issue with alignment or leaks and the nuts seem to stay tight better than with the gaskets. I never use gaskets on diffs.

The only "issue" comes when it's time to remove the diff! They can stick pretty good, it's easy to overcome, just put a floor jack under the pinion and apply pressure and they will come loose.

 

[cruiserdan]

You should make a nice shim outta 6061......

 

[Tools R Us]

You should make a nice shim outta 6061......

Now we're cookin!

 

[aim]

My gasket leaked only after I ripped it putting the diff on. Next attempt, I put a piece of plywood under the floor juck I was using to move the diff on, lined it up, slid it onto the studs, tightened everything up to FSM torque values and it hasn't leaked a drop since. That's the rear e-locker; the front was *much* easier...

 

[Romer]

I agree the stuff does not need to be the Toyota stuff. Just my lesson learned is the gasket needs some help to make a good seal.

 

[Adam B]

Actually, the only time I DID try using a paper gasket was between the t-cases when I did my Marlin dual t-cases on my '85 pickup. They supplied the gasket so I used it and it leaked like crazy. That was with good surface prep and RTV on both sides. I was silly and tried again when I threw in a rebuilt W56 because the builder supplied one. Same problem. The best leak-reduction I ever achieved with the drivetrain was with only Permatex.

 

[Adam B]

You are not concerned about the mis-alignment (really tiny but still there) when you omit the gasket?

I thought about it, but being a few thou out 3 feet away from the rear wheel bearings didn't seem too important. I doubt that most of the mini truck housings are perfectly straight anyway.

 

[Mr. Toad]

Wish I'd read this thread before replacing my thirds . . .

Factory paper gasket w/ no helper -- started leaking right away at the studs and bottom of carrier housing. And I have an almost full tube of Toyota FIPG sitting in the parts cabinet. Grrrrrr

 

[Romer]

I pulled the nuts off the bottom part of the third, squirted black FPIG in as I figured out it was leaking from the bolt holes and it has held up for 6 months now. A band aide for sure, and only on the front. I pulled the rear and did it right. Really didn't want to pull the front apart unless I had to.

 

[JerseyCruiser]

Wish I'd read this thread before replacing my thirds . . .

Factory paper gasket w/ no helper -- started leaking right away at the studs and bottom of carrier housing. And I have an almost full tube of Toyota FIPG sitting in the parts cabinet. Grrrrrr

Same thing happened to one of my bottom bolts after doing my e-locker retrofit. I used thread lock on all of the studs and they were cleaned with brake cleaner prior. I took the stud out and put them back with plumbers Teflon tape and Toyota FIPG on the threads and added more around the the hole in the 3rd that was 4 months ago no leaks. It is best to use it on both sides of the paper gasket also holds it in place to avoid ripping it.

 

[AATLAS1X]

It's called FIPG or Form In Place Gasket.

The red is used in gear boxes, 00295-01281 and the black, 00295-00103, in engines.

My guys called it Fing In-Penetrable Glue

It really is good stuff, but expensive.

Shane

 

[gotmud]

Haven't pulled my 3rd members yet, but I have done quite a few Toyota and Suzuki 3rd's. Paper gasket with Ultra Copper spray works great if you have a smooth and clean surface to work with. Removal is a piece of cake since the spray silicone really only fills in the minor imperfections on the gasket and mating surface. FWIW...Aircraft sealant will work in a pinch out on the trail in lieu of a gasket or FIPG.

 

[-Spike-]

When I pulled my diffs last time, I used the paper gaskets sans goo and haven't had a leak. I'll be doing a re-gear with Tools R Us soon, he's convinced me to run no gasket, with goo. I like the thought that the diff will be held more positively in place with the metal to metal contact, giving the pinion more support to hold it against the ring gear. It's a very small amount of possible deflection we're talking about, but Kevin made it sound good.

-Spike