Use the Toyota Red Gasket Stuff when replacing Diffs

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I just have to say WTF on the use of FIG/RTV in place of a gasket.

After spending quality time cleaning and lightly sanding both sealing surfaces I've never had a leak on the 9 Toyota diffs I've done. Two of them being on my locked LC80, which the longer studs do make for a harder time installing without tearing a gasket. The LC gaskets are also far better than the paper used on typical mini trucks/celicas. Not to be a total jerk but it seems like poor prep work and lack of care during the install.

-Spike, what Tools said does make sense but I for one haven't seen a R&P blow on these trucks before a birfield or axle.
 
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Bear80 said:
-Spike, what Tools said does make sense but I for one haven't seen a R&P blow on these trucks before a birfield or axle.
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Perhaps, but how many 5.29 swaps have you seen? Supposedly there's a greater possibility of breakage with them, and it's important to keep the pinion from pushing away from the ring. Tight bearing preloads are our first defense, leaving out the gasket is just an extra step that won't have any ill effects.

-Spike
 
Bear80 said:
I just have to say WTF on the use of FIG/RTV in place of a gasket.

After spending quality time cleaning and lightly sanding both sealing surfaces I've never had a leak on the 9 Toyota diffs I've done. Two of them being on my locked LC80, which the longer studs do make for a harder time installing without tearing a gasket. The LC gaskets are also far better than the paper used on typical mini trucks/celicas. Not to be a total jerk but it seems like poor prep work and lack of care during the install.

-Spike, what Tools said does make sense but I for one haven't seen a R&P blow on these trucks before a birfield or axle.
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The main issue that this addresses is the bolted connection between the axle housing and diff, when wheeled hard it's known to come loose. When smacked on a rock, heavily shock loaded, etc, the paper gasket can crush slightly, causing the diff to shift. Once it shifts, it will move easier the next time, repeat until it's loose.

Guy's that run Toyota type axles hard have found this trick to improve the connection in two ways. The metal to metal connection allows less flex, movement and the silicone adhesive glues the diff to the housing on increasing the strength.

For most it's probably not an issue. I sometimes like to challenge the rig in the rocks and have landed on the diffs, pretty often. Mine haven't come loose and aren't leaking, but my brother's rear has, it's been retorqued several times and is leaking. So if by simply leaving the gasket out will slightly increase the strength, make a more trouble free setup, it works for me.

For a proper bond/seal the prep is the same ether way. Gasket adhesives don't stick to oil, so the surfaces must be clean and smooth.
 
I used the red OEM felt gasket and form-a-gasket from the local auto parts place (Autozone) on mini truck axles. This is after creating a less than perfectly flat mating surface through axle housing mods.

Two years and several thousand miles later, zero leaks, no other problems.

I was just sure to follow the directions: clean/dry surfaces, and a decent bead on said mating surfaces.
 
3 hours of my Saturday afternoon were spent re-doing this job. Upon inspection, my previous prep was not fantastic. After some time with gasket remover spray, a putty knife, and then sandpaper, the surfaces looked nice. I laid a bead of FIPG on the housing and the carrier, put a new gasket on the housing studs, then re-assembled. I'm going to fill it up tomorrow and see what happens . . .
 
I also used FIPG with the paper gasket on the rear wheel bearing seal. At first i just used the paper gasket and one of the sides started to leak just a little (could see it slung on the wheel after a long drive). Took the axle out and added the FIPG and so far so good.
 
I have used paper or goop but never combined (I used the goop when I was too impatient to order a gasket). Neither have leaked. it seems that squished out goop would be about as "thick" as a crushed paper gasket as far as alignment is concerned.
 
concretejungle said:
I also used FIPG with the paper gasket on the rear wheel bearing seal. At first i just used the paper gasket and one of the sides started to leak just a little (could see it slung on the wheel after a long drive). Took the axle out and added the FIPG and so far so good.
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there shouldnt be any oil in the hub... what was leaking?
 
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Thread revival! I just put my 4.88 front diff in after receiving it from Zuk. Sealed it up with red FIPG. The tube says "hardens in 15-16 hours". Does it seem necessary to wait 15-16 hours before filling the diff with gear oil? Or just fill'er up?
 
Id wait until it is cured.
 
Yeah, Zuk said the same thing. Still gotta do the left knuckle anyway, just finished the right side. So damn greasy. Step 6 first...
 
I second the "Honda Bond". I've had permatex leak after some severe wheeling and axle hopping on my old lifted 91 Pickup with blocks in the rear. I've used it on about every application imaginable and never had a leak, including the above mentioned rear end after the permatex issue.
 
i have had issues with permatexs and such leaking. only once had an oe gasket leak. plus gaskets are easier to clean up than permatex. good prep, a shot of high tack and oe gaskets work just fine. and you don't have to wait 15+ hours.
 
When using Permatex gray, we just wait long enough for it to skin, (15-30min) fill it and go, never had one leak. Have done a bunch of them, a front diff we installed just left, will be wheeling in the morning, will be on the trail ~15hrs after application. :meh:
 
I could see going with grey Permatex next time, but I still have half a tube of FIPG Red, and will use it on the rear next week. I applied to both surfaces & buttoned it up leaving a pretty fat bead, no paper gasket, let it sit about 20 hours whilst enjoying several #6's, filled it today, test drove, and no leaks. Done.
 
I want the to say the fsm says you can fill the *trans pan* in an hour and drive it but no hard acceleration. Should be the same for diffs? I'll look tomorrow for future reference.
 
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