With lower lifts, the pinion angle is generally fine. I agree that stock arms have their limits, but for alot of rigs that don't see hard wheeling they will hold up well.
Upper or Lower rear control arms, which is best? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OffRoadScott
- Start date
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I guess what i'm saying is don't buy them to just buy them, unless you just like blowing money on unnecessary stuff. If you actually do need them, then have at it!
If you plan on going 37s, you are most likely will have a 4" lift or more anyways. with a 4" lift, you will need something to adjust the pinion angle, and also to return your rear axle back to stock configuration, or else you would be dealing with major rubbing issues.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Correct. Not a “requirement” for some Rigs. But regarding this thread and the description from the OP, this will be for a rig on at least 3” of lift and looking to run 37” tires. This is the kind of truck that would be a good candidate for stronger arms that can be adjusted.
It's weird how different these trucks are. I'm on the same setup and 37's with no vibes. All i plan on doing is welding angle iron to my stock arms. We'll see how that holds up.
- Thread starter
- #26
I am running the 850J in the front with the 863 in the rear but with 30mm spacers too. So I am close to 4" of lift and going to run 37 eventually.
I believe that my question was which rear control would be best for me upper or lower?
2 cents from the cheap seats...keep aftermarket adjustable bits in well protected spaces, i.e. adjustable uppers.
Assuming your lowers can stay solid, of course. You may need both, so fwiw.
- Thread starter
- #28
I am running 30mm spacers on top of the 850J/863 springs. So the rear control arms would be beneficial to me for pinon angles and clearing 37s?
- Thread starter
- #29
Thank you that makes sense. So will look at the idea of running the Land Tank and then some type of adjustable on the top.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Remember the Blackhawk lowers are also solid.
Just get the Landtank HD lower for a 3-4" lift and call it a day. They are on sales right now i believe. Check with Joey.
They are super beefy and will take lots of abuse.
Dont overlook SPC
I can vouch for the toughness of the MT arms with a wall thickness of .290” and tapped for a 1.25” shank Johnny Joint. Mine have taken a lot of punishment and have done well except for the poly bushing they use at the axle end. BTW, I run mine upside down for a little more ground clearance and slightly flatter link angle.
After wearing out two sets of poly bushing in 4 years, I cut the bushing eye off and had a machine shop make custom eyes that would accept Toyota bushings. This happened late last summer, or there about, so not too long ago but I haven’t had an issue yet. My 80 lost nothing in flexibility and on road handling is much better.
I’m pretty sure that the MT links are the thickest you will find for an 80 but there is the poly bushing issue. IMO .120” wall just isn’t enough to stand up to hard hits on rocks. My sliders are .120” wall and the tubes are collapsed in a couple spots.
Sleeving the factory arms with 1.75 DOM will give you a wall thickness of ~.375 making bending very difficult.
Does the 1.75" work for sleeving the early or late 80 arms? I'm assuming later? (smaller diameter)
Correct
Think I went with WitsEnd/Landtank lower arms and Blackhawk adjustable uppers. Deciding factor was the use of OEM rubber bushings. By all means if you have a welder and chop saw then modify your current arms to save a few bucks and keep it KISS.
- Thread starter
- #38
It looks like I will probably go with the LandTank ones as well just due to availability. @Box Rocket steered me in the right direction as far as locating the Black Hawk control arms but the only dealer is in Australia. Not that I do not support them the shipping fees alone I am sure will be a pretty penny and time-wise could and will take longer.
