Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (3 Viewers)

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Haha no it was my phone :( but before we get too far off in to the a/s/l world i did some digging in my email and Bill was contacted by me on Oct 28, 2017, and he didn't have any made, but for some reason he managed to have one in the mail to me on October 31, 2017 and I am will tell you the paint was still slightly tacky. So just shoot an email to him because I think he can make one on demand in a very short period of time. It isn't his livelihood so i think he does it at his home, but he does business like it is a real company. I am saying that because he contacted many of us to see if we had any issues with our brackets/pulleys. Of course I didn't, but he seems to have some sort of guarantee/quality commitment like a regular business. Here is the email I used with him last in 2018. photomanfzj80@comcast.net
 
Haha no it was my phone :( but before we get too far off in to the a/s/l world i did some digging in my email and Bill was contacted by me on Oct 28, 2017, and he didn't have any made, but for some reason he managed to have one in the mail to me on October 31, 2017 and I am will tell you the paint was still slightly tacky. So just shoot an email to him because I think he can make one on demand in a very short period of time. It isn't his livelihood so i think he does it at his home, but he does business like it is a real company. I am saying that because he contacted many of us to see if we had any issues with our brackets/pulleys. Of course I didn't, but he seems to have some sort of guarantee/quality commitment like a regular business. Here is the email I used with him last in 2018. photomanfzj80@comcast.net
Is there something like this
Yes please post real measured voltage numbers at the battery terminals.

Voltage will vary with loads and temperature. When cold, you could see voltages as high as 14.5. Usually constant running above 1500 rpm and warmed up, you should see 14.0-14.1. If it's really hot, as low as 13.8.

True resting battery voltage, means it's disconnected from all loads, left overnight, and then measured. It should be 12.6 - 12.8 depending on exact battery chemistry.
Is there anything like this for a fj80 3fe ?
 
@1yellowhotrod you might have already saw this 3fe - Tundra Alternator Mod
but from what I understand you need to be aware of if you have a 90 amp or 80 amp as the brackets might be different. also people have figured out where to put second or relocate alternators and will open options up for you.
 
What’s the procedure for changing to new oem belts with this bracket. I’m having a hard time put the new belts on. Thanks
 
I didn't have any issues with new belts. You should just be able to run the tensioner bolt all the way in and they will fit.
I was able to use the screwdriver to pry them in. Thanks
 
About to install a new factory 150A Sequoia Alt on my stock 97 80. It seems my stock alt is not charging. I've ordered Bill's nicely made bracket and have that ready to go.

After seeing this video. What are you guys doing to upgrade the rest of the system? I've sifted through about 20pages of this thread. Looking for visual references perhaps from other threads?
 
You can upgrade to larger cables if you want. Many of us don't upgrade anything because our demand for power isn't greatly increased but one may want to increase to a larger wire from the alternator to the battery if you are going to be winching.
 
What are you guys doing to upgrade the rest of the system?
If you're asking about wiring, I'm running 4-gauge welding cable from the alternator to the battery, through a 175 amp Mega Fuse mounted to the outside of the battery box. I put split loom over the cable and wrapped the entire thing in red electrical tape for extra heat and abrasion resistance.

Your local welding supply shop can sell you welding cable and probably crimp ends on for you.

For such a short run, 4 AWG is probably overkill, but I already had it on hand from my dual-battery setup. I definitely wouldn't try to run a 130A/150A alternator solely through the stock fusible link.
 
Stopped by my Toyota dealer today. 27060-0F050-84 is the new part number for the 150 A Sequoia. $255 before my 15% Costco discount on parts at this particular dealer. I didn't realize this would be a reman but that's what they could order and it should fit Photoman's bracket + pulley.
 
I just finished installing this kit and watched my pulley nut immediately start to loosen up. Didn’t use loctite. I used a 3/8” impact with a 10mm on the actual alternator threaded shaft and jammed a screwdriver between the nut and pulley id because a socket wouldn’t fit. Then I realized Bill had included a threaded piece with a 7/8 nut welded to the top that I didn’t utilize. :bang:Did you guys use loctite on that piece and how did you bolt it down? I have a 1/2” impact that I’ll use tomorrow but would like to know I’m approaching this the right way. ie: don’t want to just spin the whole assembly without bottoming the fastener. A pre-emptive apology if I’ve missed anything else obvious but I’ve read this thread completely FWIW
 
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