Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)

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Quick question are you supposed to remove the old bracket bushing or just push it out slightly ?

Just push it out slightly to get it to sit flush.
 
So I completed my install everything went smoothly. The alternator was rebuilt but it’s hardly putting out 12v. Driving around town it could hardly keep my battery demands to the point it I couldn’t start the vehicle. What gives? Could it a bad alternator?
 
Bad Terminals/cables, bad rebuild, slipping belt, bad battery, bad grounds... probably other possibilities. ... Does the voltage go up with RPM at all? is your fusible link getting hot? Do you have any pictures of your setup you can share, maybe someone can spot something visually that would warrant looking in to.
 
Bad Terminals/cables, bad rebuild, slipping belt, bad battery, bad grounds... probably other possibilities. ... Does the voltage go up with RPM at all? is your fusible link getting hot? Do you have any pictures of your setup you can share, maybe someone can spot something visually that would warrant looking in to.
I checked and doabled checked everything! I just swapped out for a newer deep cycle battery out of my 100 series. Before I install the battery it was reading 12.69volts. Once installed the voltage would bounce from 12.50v to 11.89v sticking in the low 12’s. The alternator is a junkyard find that I had completely rebuilt. What type of voltage should I be seeing? What are others getting who did the mod?
 
12.7 with the engine off measured at the rear hatch by my solar charge contoller. And 13.4 to 13.7 while the engine is running. When it is cold out the initial voltage will be close to, of not 14, right after starting. Mine is a tundra alternator from a junkyard that had 12k on it.
 
12.7 with the engine off measured at the rear hatch by my solar charge contoller. And 13.4 to 13.7 while the engine is running. When it is cold out the initial voltage will be close to, of not 14, right after starting. Mine is a tundra alternator from a junkyard that had 12k on it.
I’m swapping out the alternator this afternoon thx for the help
 
Recommend changing both low pressure powerstearing hoses and resorvour hose, oil filter and fuel filter while you have that out. If those haven't been done recently. Made me have lots of extra room for all of them . Made all of them easy jobs with the Alt out
 
Recommend changing both low pressure powerstearing hoses and resorvour hose, oil filter and fuel filter while you have that out. If those haven't been done recently. Made me have lots of extra room for all of them . Made all of them easy jobs with the Alt out
Thx for the tip but this was part of the P0401 code rabbit hole I jumped down. Fuel filter, fuel injectors, power steering pump, lines and box are all new. In addition I installed a new 2ga negative cable, 2ga alternator cable with the 2nd white cable added from the fuse box. 2ga is connecting to a 200amp blue sea circuit breaker.
 
I'm a dumbass and would like to share an email that I sent to Bill (photoman) about the issue I was having with the new alternator. I hope someone can learn from this and not make the same mistake.

"First off bill let me thank you for your timely manner in responding to my emails and my concerns.

The alternator kit is awesome and I’m a complete dumbass!

So here is what happened; after Multiple times checking all my cabling I would conclude that I had a bad alternator. I replaced it with one from a local auto shop. Replacement alternator had the issues of only 11volts. Took the cruiser to a local mechanic to scan it and it came up with a bad voltage regulator. So I decided to re-check the alternator connections. Sure enough, I installed the cabling pins of the alternator harness upside! So after feeling like an idiot I fixed it. Well unfortunately I was still having the same issues...so....back to square one.



A buddy of mine who is also a cruiser head stopped by and we both went through the process again! After about 2hours of going through the checking process my buddy decides recheck the wires coming off the alternator harness connector....well sure enough we made sure that pins were seated properly and that turned out to be the issue!



My dumbass for the pins being upside down and my buddy to figuring out the correct pin orientation wasn’t seated properly.


Now everything runs great!
14.2 voltage reading on the Scan gauge.

Thanks again for your help!

Danny "
 
Great Thread! Thanks to the OP and the nice additions added.

I used it to replace a 1999 toy original alternator with 234k on it. I put in a 2007 tundra 130amp 4.7l in it with the 4 plug connector.

The big pain was working in that space with no room and getting the connector pins out.

Tundra alt 2007 130amp for the 4.7l had the correct mounts. It has 69k on it so I expect it to last a long time.
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In place a a pia to get the old out and the new in. I ended up pulling the radiator overflow, moving the PS pump aside, air box out and the fan losened. I was able to get out out from the top doing all that.
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I had to make an extension for the wire retaining bracket because the tundra one is a good 2” away from the original location and the wires would never reach.
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See that hole way at the end of the metal terminal. That’s the key that locks the terminal in the connector. Each one has a plastic piece that drops into that square hole. In my 99 a white plastic piece slides out and then those sit in the
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Here’s a shot with the white clip out. The release is back in there on top of each terminal.
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When I purchased my LC a month ago my buddy who knows much more than me, said I need to look into an alternator upgrade cause my voltage was running high. He had done the alternator upgrade and purchased the bracket kit from Bill. His is running great. So I purchased the bracket from Bill (which was a great kit and great directions )and bought a 150V alternator for the 2003-09 tundras and sequoias. I installed the bracket and new alternator this weekend which was much more difficult then I expected (partly because it was my first time). I ended up having to remove my radiator hose and the coils near the alternator to have enough room to get the new, much bigger, alternator in. The wiring in my 1995 LC 80 is awful and the wires are way too tight so I couldn't remove the alternator as I've seen most people describe. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find information on how to redo the wiring or where to find information on it? After getting everything in and running great I noticed my voltage gauge hadn't changed. I will say I haven't done the wire upgrade that most have done so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. (is the wire upgrade completely necessary?) The picture below is after new alternator was installed. Any suggestions?


guage.jpg
 

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