Alternator Idler pulley.
I bought my truck without the alternator idler pulley.
This weekend I installed it after buying it new from cdan.
Alas the belts don't reach it.
For those who made the 150amp mod, does you idler pulley do anything?
Does it reach the belts?
Everything does fit and is working for a month or two.
I just added the pulley because it wasn't there
alas, when every think is tight and snag, the belt hardly thouch the pulley and it makes rattling noise because there is not tension on it.
Can someone post a picture detailing where that idler pulley suppose to be installed? Is it possible I stuck it into the wrong place?
I bought an alternator but it didn't come with a B terminal nut. Does anyone know if the stock 80 series alternator nut will work? If not what size does it need and any alternatives besides getting a new sequoia one?
I bought an alternator but it didn't come with a B terminal nut. Does anyone know if the stock 80 series alternator nut will work? If not what size does it need and any alternatives besides getting a new sequoia one?
Holy crap this is a lot of reading to find the type of 150 alt to use and a good source. I have read through the thread and followed other links that all seem to be rather old but I can not find a part number. I know I want a 150 amp from a Tundra/Sequoia but the year I must have missed. I want to make sure it fits Bill's bracket.
Holy crap this is a lot of reading to find the type of 150 alt to use and a good source. I have read through the thread and followed other links that all seem to be rather old but I can not find a part number. I know I want a 150 amp from a Tundra/Sequoia but the year I must have missed. I want to make sure it fits Bill's bracket.
I was asked a very good question about your first picture and wondered if you could clarify something. Where did you make the connection of the stock small white wire that was crimped in with the larger wire at alternator "B" terminal?
I just added it right on the same post as the big red wire, that picture was not a completed photo, took that one to show how nice it all fits together with the super cool bracket
I just added it right on the same post as the big red wire, that picture was not a completed photo, took that one to show how nice it all fits together with the super cool bracket
So how do I know the alternator I bought from a salvage yard is a 130 or 150? I had it tested at both Checker Auto and Auto Zone and it said "PASSED" but the amps were not available. I only have a 100 day warranty and want to make sure it is the 150 like I planned.
Why was the amps reading not available? If you have a NAPA nearby you might try them. The one here had a machine that could read amps. They had to use an adapter for a tacoma to do it though.
So i've been running the 150amp for awhile and started off charging fine, 14.15 volts. Recently the voltage started to jump around and settle about 13.5. So i tightened the belts and got it up to about 13.8, still low. After checking all my wiring i tested the voltage from the positive to the alternator case....14.38WTF. I contemplated running a ground directly from the case from one of the available threaded holes...i shouldent need to do this though. After looking over the instructions again i just cranked the 5/8ths through bolt with the nut on the back, hoping to make a better ground and BINGO! back to 14.15. I'm still losing .13 volts from the alternator case to the battery but i guess i can live with that, must be some resistance through the engine/frame. What to you guys think, is that about what you're seeing? Any thoughts on directly grounding the alternator to the frame or battery? Hope this helps someone else that may be seeing some voltage drop, even if they didnt realize it
I forgot to crank down the 14mm pivot bolt, it was very loose, now my voltage drop is only .02
