Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Would you be willing to send me that email as well please? I would like to do this upgrade. Thanks
 
be careful with that... i know that a lot of folks do not want their personal email spread around.... Just saying.
 
be careful with that... i know that a lot of folks do not want their personal email spread around.... Just saying.

He actually has it posted in the first thread at the bottom so I think he'd be OK with it being PM'd to members, I sent him an email just to be sure anyways.
 
Just got an email back from Bill, he's OK with it since its posted in the first page of this thread.
 
Hi, looking to do this upgrade on a Japanese import 94FZJ80 here in the UK, has anybody tried this before? Any problems with the size of the 150amp alternators? The truck is RHD and I have added some really rubbish photos!!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422023264.568673.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422023279.234891.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422023291.333972.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422023301.767457.jpg

Cheers
 
i don't think it matters.... all should work the same. No issues with the 150amp size... many successful installs including mine
 
I have had to rush it on my 80 series. Two weeks ago my alternator died, I brought the 100 series v8 petrol alternator to fit using the kit and plug from hear. But haven't ordered it yet. Wasn't going to spend time on old alternator so ground the top edge of the curve part of the old bracket so it didn't interfere with the body of the alternator and ran a new bolt for the adjuster. Have heat shrunk the terminals and stuck them in place with duck tape keeping stuff out. Found removing oil filter, battery box and top radiator hose the easiest way. But if your not in a breakdown situation like I was. Then order the kit and injoy it does make a difference.
 
has anyone had any issues with overcharging after this install??? I havent tested yet, but yesterday I could not start the vehicle after being on the hwy for 3 hours and popped the hood to find out my newer Diehard platinum was boiling and where the battery bar was the battery looked burnt......

I am going to bump start it today to move it into my garage to take some readings

I have a diehard 850 cca battery, photoman bracket with pulley, and a jobber alternator as the original one I had died the first month I had it on
 
has anyone had any issues with overcharging after this install??? I havent tested yet, but yesterday I could not start the vehicle after being on the hwy for 3 hours and popped the hood to find out my newer Diehard platinum was boiling and where the battery bar was the battery looked burnt......

I am going to bump start it today to move it into my garage to take some readings

I have a diehard 850 cca battery, photoman bracket with pulley, and a jobber alternator as the original one I had died the first month I had it on

No issues here. I installed my new Denso 150 amp and Photoman bracket installed for just over a year now. I installed on a 6 year old Toyota True Start battery, battery is still good. I recently installed an Advance Auto Parts AGM, no issues here in the last 3 months.
 
No problems at all with my Sequoia 150A alternator... it's been almost 3 years for me.
 
has anyone had any issues with overcharging after this install??? I havent tested yet, but yesterday I could not start the vehicle after being on the hwy for 3 hours and popped the hood to find out my newer Diehard platinum was boiling and where the battery bar was the battery looked burnt......

I am going to bump start it today to move it into my garage to take some readings

I have a diehard 850 cca battery, photoman bracket with pulley, and a jobber alternator as the original one I had died the first month I had it on


This can happen. I had an alternator where the internal regulator went bad and it pushed full voltage all the time. If you can still get the car started and test the output of the alternator at the alternator post that will tell you if it is not being regulated. When this happened to me my fusible link saved me.
 
Ill post a new thread, I think it was the battery
 
No problems at all with my Sequoia 150A alternator... it's been almost 3 years for me.

Same here, all good and I used the stock pulley, disadvantage for juice at low RPM's but I haven't any issues on interstate blem batteries.
 
has anyone had any issues with overcharging after this install??? I havent tested yet, but yesterday I could not start the vehicle after being on the hwy for 3 hours and popped the hood to find out my newer Diehard platinum was boiling and where the battery bar was the battery looked burnt......

I am going to bump start it today to move it into my garage to take some readings

I have a diehard 850 cca battery, photoman bracket with pulley, and a jobber alternator as the original one I had died the first month I had it on
I had a Toyota Reman alternator fail, story starts at post #253. The replacement is doing fine, just bought a 50 qt fridge so it will be getting more of a workout.
 
Stock voltage regulators regulate only voltage. So unless they fail, it would not lead to overcharging of the battery. The increased current is only a factor if accessories demand it, otherwise, it doesn't exist, because the voltage regulator regulates voltage, not current.

In the context of a fridge, it's a tiny fraction of the potential of the alternator. If your alternator can make 150 amps, the 3 amps the fridge uses isn't very much. Even with the stock alternator, a running fridge uses 4% of it's available power. That isn't much.

The only time I can see a 150 amp alternator being useful on an 80 is if you run huge (I mean heroic huge) lighting. Otherwise, what most people need is more power STORAGE for when the truck isn't running, and that's best addressed by a second battery.
 
Stock voltage regulators regulate only voltage. So unless they fail, it would not lead to overcharging of the battery. The increased current is only a factor if accessories demand it, otherwise, it doesn't exist, because the voltage regulator regulates voltage, not current.

In the context of a fridge, it's a tiny fraction of the potential of the alternator. If your alternator can make 150 amps, the 3 amps the fridge uses isn't very much. Even with the stock alternator, a running fridge uses 4% of it's available power. That isn't much.

The only time I can see a 150 amp alternator being useful on an 80 is if you run huge (I mean heroic huge) lighting. Otherwise, what most people need is more power STORAGE for when the truck isn't running, and that's best addressed by a second battery.
Understood, I meant more of a workout when recharging after a night of running the fridge, still not a huge challenge as you said. Not into big light arrays.
 
so with factory toyota alternators than would the amperage not stay consistent??? Like would it drop off to almost nothing?? What does the vehicle take to run?? To me my thought is a 150 amp alternator should run at around 1/2 load rating the entire time

I knew the toyota's were voltage based, but if you run just off the battery you will smoke the battery and they are not meant for constant high amperage
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom