Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)

[DominicanFZJ80]

Thanks for the quick response and I really wish it i was as easy as described in the posts and pictures. I had removed that tab prior to posting and followed your instructions and these posts word for word. I may have a unique situation and these things are just STUCK good. I've pushed and pulled on those pins and nothing. I will try again Sunday AM. Wish me luck! However in the worse case scenario does Toyoto sell the pins individually, because I could just cut the wires and crimp new pins to them?

 

[Photoman]

Worse case scenario just cut the plastic connector with something like a Dremel tool and remove the pins. The stock plastic connector does not get reused.
Toyota does sell the pins with pigtails. Part number 82998-12440.

Edit> As requested, Good luck

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

That's exactly what I need to know! Dremel is worse case scenario. I just like to be able to return to stock if I run into any issues during installation. Now that I know I can get the pins from Toyota without buying a full harness (Ford) I have no problem cutting up the plug.

Thanks Bill! Great product and even better customer service!

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Posing a question as I had to give up on my install and back track to stock form. Is there some sort of secret to removing the pins from the original alternator connector? I've struggled with it for hours, even bought one of those Lisle tool sets for pin removal. Any tips? I hate electrical wiring!!!

What happened? What kind of problems did you run into?

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

What happened? What kind of problems did you run into?

I was fighting with the original alternator plug pins. I removed the retaining plastic clip and the pins would not release. Pulled and pushed on them with the lisle remover tools and still nothing. Plan moving forward will be to purchase new pins just in case I damage the existing ones when I take a dremel to the plug. Also going to get everything together for my dual battery install before attempting again.

 

[Tapage]

Hello Folks .. anyone here had to replace the regulator on your 150 amp alternator ( 27060-0F050 ) ..?

 

[Azca]

Nope, working like a charm

 

[Tapage]

For all you guys to know .. it looks like those regulators are integrated part and the price it's about 600 bucks .. ouch, so you better get a Toyota reman for half that money ..

 

[Tapage]

After some digging it turns out you can replace the part .. not a Toyota part since they only sell V regulator with the Coil which cost about 600 bucks ( twice the price of a Toyota reman alt ) ..

I was able to find this part number IN6015 which lead me to this

Alternator Voltage Regulator for Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Hyundai [126600-0150]

there are several options out there similar .. so I just order one to give a shot.

 

[warezdog]

Keep us posted, I just ordered and received some bearings for mine for when I do the pulley, I may want to just do this as well when I have it apart.

 

[fj80pb]

A few days ago I finished the install of the new 150amp alternator. The quality, fit & finish of the bracket is impressive: hats off to Bill!.
I have one single suggestion to “improve” it, which would be using metric bolts and nuts instead of standard. This simple mod will keep everything as OEM, and simplier (less tools), as possible.
The install isn't complicated as long the job is taken with patience and following Bill's intructions to the letter. However, I dread the moment when I would have to replace the belts. The ones on the rig are almost new and I do not see how these can be replaced without taking the alternator of the support/bracket and tipping it back with the new belts on the pulley (Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp). A real PITA job to just replacing the belts.
Obviously, either an ½ inch longer after market belt or an smaller pulley (8% reduced diameter?) would make things easier. If Bill decides to make another batch of these, I would buy one from him without hesitation. Count me in.
In addition to the bracket, these are the parts I've used.

Alternator part # 270600F05084
From Napa:
150 amp Fuse block: part #782-1143
150 amp fuse: 782-1138
4 gauge wire & terminals
Assorted stock of corrugated pipe, shrink tube, zip ties, etc
Lisle 56599 terminal removal tool (for the new connector/plug)

The difference the new alternator has already made is significant-to say the least: no more light dimming at night while at idle, no hesitation of the A/C fan at full speed, quicker up&down on all windows....while the SPAL aux fan is at work. Clearly, the old 80amp alternator , while incredibly reliable, couldn't keep up with current loads. I just hope the new alternator is as reliable as the old (that's why I went with a new one)
All things considered, I recommend this mod without reservations.
Cheers
fj80pb

 

[fj80pb]

Quick update. Need help.
I've put around 300 miles since the install of the 150 amp. Mostly just commuting miles with just couple of interstate sections.
As I stated in my last post, everything ran fine...until yesterday when I noticed some random voltage surge (up to 16.1v as per the Scangauge) when revving the engine up to 3 or 3500 rpm. The surge only occurs when revving and the engine bay is heat soaked (+130F). The voltage drops immediately back to normal (13.5 to 13.8). When trying to replicate the surge it only does it randomly...weird, isn't?
Along with the install, I have upgraded the wiring (gauge 4), fuse and making sure the alternator is properly grounded to both the battery and the engine block. The new alternator is a Toyota remanufactured acquired through a dealer.
I'm not familiar with these alternators but seems to me the voltage limit should be at 14.5v as per the internal regulator, right? Could it be the internal regulator, which to the best of my understanding is temperature-sensitive, is busted or deffective? If that is the case, I could use the Toyota nation-wide warranty and replace the alternator.
Thanks in advance for your comments, inputs, suggestions

fj80pb

 

[bigshrek]

If your over charging, then your regulator is not doing it job. Verify the over charge with a voltmeter. There should be some form of warranty from Napa for the alternator.

 

[NW Wheeler]

Hope you kept the alternator box, you will need it for the warranty return. I went through the same problem with a Toyota reman within the first 100 miles! See earlier in this thread. Mine went as high as 18V, no difference with changes in temperature. Pretty disappointing for $$$. Second one has over 6000 miles with no troubles.

 

[spressomon]

Toyota reman alternators suck. Finally after tiring of the BS I went to O'Reilly/Autozone/one of them and bought one...with lifetime warranty. And it was 1/2 or less what Toyota gets for reman alts. It has outlasted, knock on wood, the Toyota unit...

If you read up on reman auto parts...you will find each alternator/starter only gets the parts that are bench fail replaced (and usually the bearings)...regardless of whose name is on the box ...including Toyota.

 

[fj80pb]

Thanks for the feed back.
Clearly, there's something wrong with some component of the internal regulator (a thermistor?). I've noticed again today that the voltage doesn't surge neither while cold and/or below 3000rpm. Therefore one could drive the rig for hours at normal traffic without noticing the problem-at all. Obvioulsly the third-party doing the remanufacturing for Toyota doesn't test these units to the full rpm spectrum: bad QC or it's my sheer bad luck?
Fortunately, I've kept the reman original packaing box-and the invoice indeed. We'll see how the local Toyota dealer deals with the issue as I got the alternator from an out of state dealer. Regardless, it's diassapointing-and frustrating-paying top $$$ and getting this.
It will take a few days before I report back on the outcome.
Wish me luck!

fj80pb

 

[NW Wheeler]

I did the same, bought from C-Dan and exchanged at local dealer, went well. The worst part was the R/R, after having just done the install.

 

[warezdog]

Still didn't find the need to take a chance on a rebuilt from anywhere or a new one from anywhere, cheap ones on ebay sub 75 delivered for 03 to 07 Sequoia for the 150A or 130A out of a Tundra, you get a brush kit from Mr T for like 15 bucks and you have a genuine Denso that will last for another 100K.

 

[bigshrek]

What about doing a Chevy one wire alternoator conversion. It's a common thing for the Toyota pick and 4runner folks.

 

[canman]

When I did this upgrade, I got a used 130A. Still running fine after 6 plus yrs! I did however just fix the upgraded wire I ran from the pos terminal of the alternator. Had issues in the past with the nut coming loose, and a couple weeks back while going over all grounds under the hood I noticed the nut and the washers had practically disintegrated. I think it was a poor contact and overheated due to the oversize hole on the lug. I resoldered the hole in the wire lug and redrilled it to match the stud dia on the alternator. I will be replacing the belts I think in a few weeks as well. I suspect the tensioner on the AC compressor will be all corroded again. Not looking forward to this.