Upgrade to Anti-Lock Brakes (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 19, 2013
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151
Location
Gilbert, Az
Here is my delima. Have a 94 LandCruiser, already upgraded and added ARB Front Bumper, Sliders, Springs, Camelback Toyota rebuilt the top half of engine and all that goes with that, new Radiator, PS Pump, Alternator, and Brakes.

The issue is now when I hit the brakes hard, and I have had to due to idiot drivers in front of me, the wheel (BFG AT K02's) lock up and I just skid. Tested at a read light at 45 mph and I layed down 100'+ skid. Had any cars stopped in front of me I would have taken them out without slowing much. Had to hit my brakes doing about 15 mph coming up to a round about and slid over 50' right up the entry almost hitting a RV going around the round about (road was wet). This is a death trap, not for me but for the car in front of me.
I have also hit a coyote and deer, but I know when in the forest I have trained myself to just hold the wheel and not hit the brake till after I hit whatever is in front of me.

Is there a way to upgrade to anti-lock without moving up to a 95-97 Cruiser? If I do move up, will everything transfer from my 94 to the 95-97 model. I really like the power of the newly rebuilt engine and don't want to go through that expense of having to rebuild the next one I buy.

Appreciate any suggestions. IS all my problems caused by me upgrading to Performance Rotors and Brakes?
 
Hey Gummybob, which wheels are locking up? Front, rear, both?

hard to lock up a landcrusier unless something is wrong usually?
 
I’d start with a rear brake over hall. I’ve dont several over the years and rear calipers are often almost seized doing nothing. Possibly due to LSVP’s not adjuster right so the tears do not get used much
 
I thought the 94s already had ABS?

Is the ABS light burned out and just needs something fixed?

I intentionally have my ABS disabled.

ABS does NOT help you stop faster. It is designed to maintain control of steering during heavy braking.

Maybe slow down a little, lower your tire pressure, and drive with your headlights on.
 
Your 94 had abs from the factory.
 
its possible your LSVP is setup wrong ( after the lift) and the rear brakes arn't being given any inputs.
also, if your brakes are locking up (good for you) your abs isn't working. maybe it was disabled. got a picture of your engine bay? in particular the dirver's side.
 
Adding abs WILL NOT reduce your stopping distance. It will increase it, it allow you to maneuver when the tires would otherwise be locked up.

You are trying to stop ~6000lbs of steel on 4 thin strips of rubber. Drive accordingly.
 
Adding abs WILL NOT reduce your stopping distance. It will increase it, it allow you to maneuver when the tires would otherwise be locked up.

You are trying to stop ~6000lbs of steel on 4 thin strips of rubber. Drive accordingly.

If his brakes aren’t balanced, then he’s only using 2 strips of rubber ;)
 
I grew up in pre-ABS years and have no problem making panic stops in a non-ABS vehicle. In fact, I removed the ABS from my '93 and my stopping distance are way shorter than they were with the ABS. Many people here feel the ABS on these rigs basically suck. Of course the brakes themselves have to actually work well. As always, JMHO.
 
My '93 has ABS... so your '94 should as well. If you're locking up all your tires and the ABS isn't engaging, check to see if the ABS Fuse is in the fuse box. Echoing what others have said... sounds like you need a brake overhaul. Check the LSPV and make sure your lines are bled properly.
 
There are some 93, 94 and 95 models that came with drum brakes, semi float axles that would not have ABS. Converting a non-ABS model would be cost prohibited.
 
There are some 93, 94 and 95 models that came with drum brakes, semi float axles that would not have ABS. Converting a non-ABS model would be cost prohibited.

Have seen '93 and '94, never seen a '95, overall they are rare, but there are a few.
 
...
The issue is now when I hit the brakes hard, and I have had to due to idiot drivers in front of me, the wheel (BFG AT K02's) lock up and I just skid. Tested at a read light at 45 mph and I layed down 100'+ skid. Had any cars stopped in front of me I would have taken them out without slowing much. Had to hit my brakes doing about 15 mph coming up to a round about and slid over 50' right up the entry almost hitting a RV going around the round about (road was wet). This is a death trap, not for me but for the car in front of me.
...

As Murf said, what tires are locking? This sounds like rear lockup, if so, that is very dangerous, needs to be addressed ASAP.
 
sliding 50 feet doing 15mph on wet roads, right.

He said wheel so is it just one wheel or wheels?
 
As Murf said, what tires are locking? This sounds like rear lockup, if so, that is very dangerous, needs to be addressed ASAP.

yes!

First place I would look: possible rear axle seal(s) leaking > swelling rear shoes > pushing on drums > grabbing hard upon braking. Seen it many times on rear drum vehicles. .
 
1) As others have said, if it is just your fronts or rears locking up, your LSPV needs adjustment (or removal)

2) If it's all four, your problem is not the brakes, it's the driver (sorry, I don't mean to be that guy). If you do not have ABS, standing on the brake pedal is NOT how you're supposed to brake in an emergency situation. Lighter touch or pedal modulation, depending on what's going on. This sounds like a technique issue to me. Braking Without ABS | Braking Technique | BSR, Inc.
 
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Sorry for the late reply. After upgrading the front brakes with Performance drilled and slotted rotors and matching brake pads, I lock up both front wheels with ease, this lifts the rear end which lets the back wheels lock up with ease. So I can go into a slide at 45 without any notice. Believe me, I drive with caution, actually too much that causes people to cut in front of my all the time, then they hit their brakes and so the problem begins.

I can take pics of my engine bay later today. Like I said, tires are 285/65/17’s with about 70% tread life.
 
If the fronts lock first would try dialing in a little more rear brake bias with the LSPV. (raise axle end of the arm relative to the valve) I got best brake balance by cutting off the arm and fixing the nub in the all-the-way-up-position, but play with it first before doing anything permanent.

After that, then I would say just practice your threshold braking technique. Most of us would give a digit to have brakes that lock up on demand. They key is to figure out at what level of pedal stomp they actually lock up, and keep it just below that amount. Had lots of practice doing this back when I used to autocross, to the point I felt I could out-brake and abs vehicle with my non-abs car. There really isn't any such thing as too much brake stopping power (just look at performance motorcycles that could easily "stoppy" themselves into a cartwheel, but still have huge brakes), just gotta know how to use it.

:edit: all of the above assuming your rig DOES NOT have abs. Can you post a picture of under your hood?
 

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