Builds Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build

[2fpower]

Started installing the lift… Ironman 2”.

Some questions though…. the shock at its longest appears to be about three-quarter inch short for where the spring is hanging with no load.

At the same time I checked clearance to the engine and install bump stops..

 

[2fpower]

Here’s pictures of the shock…. I assume you takeoff the upper plastic cover as it doesn’t appear to fit very well???

First picture is of the plastic cover thing and where it would lineup in the shock tower . Also you can see that the nut will go on about full thread…. But you see the gap below it with the spring hanging unloaded. Should i put a spacer there??? Thoughts?

 

[2fpower]

also, what is everyone doing for sway bar extensions?

 

[robmobile73]

Here’s pictures of the shock…. I assume you takeoff the upper plastic cover as it doesn’t appear to fit very well???

First picture is of the plastic cover thing and where it would lineup in the shock tower . Also you can see that the nut will go on about full thread…. But you see the gap below it with the spring hanging unloaded. Should i put a spacer there??? Thoughts?

View attachment 2881924

View attachment 2881925

View attachment 2881926

If your shocks aren't long enough for "full droop" it will limit your travel. If you had really crappy weak shocks then theoretically it could pull them apart. My Monroe gas maticas are not long enough but are holding up fine. You can make longer sway bar connectors with all thread rod. If you have a good hardware store nearby you can buy a couple of rod ends and make a quick disconnect connector that you can take on and off in less than 5 min with a crescent wrench when you go off roading. Which increases your flex and ride comfort off road dramatically and yes you will have alot of body roll and have to drive conservatively if you leave it like that for the drive home. I'll put a pic later.

 

[robmobile73]

If your shocks aren't long enough for "full droop" it will limit your travel. If you had really crappy weak shocks then theoretically it could pull them apart. My Monroe gas maticas are not long enough but are holding up fine. You can make longer sway bar connectors with all thread rod and a piece of steel tubing over fore reinforcement(washers on end of 1/2 EMT with Rod in the middle.). If you have a good hardware store nearby you can buy a couple of rod ends and make a quick disconnect connector that you can take on and off in less than 5 min with a crescent wrench when you go off roading. Which increases your flex and ride comfort off road dramatically and yes you will have alot of body roll and have to drive conservatively if you leave it like that for the drive home. I'll put a pic later.

 

[tucker74]

You should leave the cover on the foamcells, not sure on the length…I’d reach out to vendor or Ironman. The foamcells on my 100 reach full drop.

Tucker

 

[coldtaco]

Doesn’t look like the correct shocks for application, you shouldn’t have to remove the plastic cover

 

[White Stripe]

Technically you should fully flex out the suspension without shocks, measure the difference between full droop and full stuff, then measure shocks and order in the length needed. They should be the last thing to be done. That's what i do anyway. Usually a off the shelf lift like that doesn't push the boundaries of suspension design and kinda has some compromises. I see several things that could be improved in that suspension. But that doesn't mean it won't be decent if you just put it together as is. The shorter shocks probably keep the shackles from inverting.

 

[tucker74]

Looks like he bought the Ironman 70-series lift kit, the shocks should work with the springs in a kit IMO. What my reply was based on, changing other things and piecing a lift together you guys are spot on. Good luck - really like those shocks FWIW

Tucker

 

[robmobile73]

Technically you should fully flex out the suspension without shocks, measure the difference between full droop and full stuff, then measure shocks and order in the length needed. They should be the last thing to be done. That's what i do anyway. Usually a off the shelf lift like that doesn't push the boundaries of suspension design and kinda has some compromises. I see several things that could be improved in that suspension. But that doesn't mean it won't be decent if you just put it together as is. The shorter shocks probably keep the shackles from inverting.

Back in the late 70's in the days of big tall tires, super long U bolts, and 44"'s on full size pickups being the kings of the day, some guys would put in a "limiting strap" to keep suspension from extending too far. Chain, cable, heavy nylon strap, a variety of things could be done here. I'd say that 44"'s and 6-8" of lift probably go alot further toward overextending shocks than what you have.....That said you will absolutely have better performing suspension if the shocks can do their job through the entire range of motion.

 

[2fpower]

Back in the late 70's in the days of big tall tires, super long U bolts, and 44"'s on full size pickups being the kings of the day, some guys would put in a "limiting strap" to keep suspension from extending too far. Chain, cable, heavy nylon strap, a variety of things could be done here. I'd say that 44"'s and 6-8" of lift probably go alot further toward overextending shocks than what you have.....That said you will absolutely have better performing suspension if the shocks can do their job through the entire range of motion.

Was thinking that I can bush the spring down some for now. If I pull the helper spring out and an one extra spring piece, that will also shorten the pack up and put the shock in the right spot as well.

By the way, the rear went together perfectly, except those rear shackle bolts, what a pain to get to with the gas tank in place.... not to self to break those when the tank is down....

 

[2fpower]

Well I thought the rear springs went in perfectly…. @CrowleyFJ40 came by to check out my work and showed me how those rear springs shackle is going to invert. Took out the tape measure and the springs are 2 inch shorter than the stock spring.

 

[2fpower]

Made some good progress this weekend…. @kc_chevota Lent a hand fitting the radiator and figuring out the condenser, among other things. Decide to use the stock radiator. Four core, has oil cooler the transmission… only problem is all of the input and output are wrong size and direction. So took it down to ORR radiator today. 3 weeks out, so we’ll see…. If they can do it I can use the stock LS lower radiator hose, and just have to trim the upper.

The A/C condenser hoses are on the wrong side of the car now -- and it was damaged in storage over the last year, so I need to find a source to find a 16 tall by 20 wide with outlets pointed forward, or maybe to the side, if I can work around the radiator mounts.

also bent up some sliders....

 

[robmobile73]

Made some good progress this weekend…. @kc_chevota Lent a hand fitting the radiator and figuring out the condenser, among other things. Decide to use the stock radiator. Four core, has oil cooler the transmission… only problem is all of the input and output are wrong size and direction. So took it down to ORR radiator today. 3 weeks out, so we’ll see…. If they can do it I can use the stock LS lower radiator hose, and just have to trim the upper.

View attachment 2905000

View attachment 2905001

View attachment 2905002

Did a 4BT swap some years back and of all things the hardest part was looking for hoses to adapt those semi-truck size engine side outlets to my stock system. I ended up using exhaust tubing adapters and iron pipe fitings to step up and down in size and change direction. You can make good reliable short 90 degree bends with pipe elbows that would kink normal rubber hoses.

 

[robmobile73]

Did a 4BT swap some years back and of all things the hardest part was looking for hoses to adapt those semi-truck size engine side outlets to my stock system. I ended up using exhaust tubing adapters and iron pipe fitings to step up and down in size and change direction. You can make good reliable short 90 degree bends with pipe elbows that would kink normal rubber hoses.

On another note about the iron pipe. If it seems too "low tech" etc.. those cheap harbor freight pipe benders work well with schedule 40 iron pipe. They also work with "rigid aluminum conduit" which is schedule 35 I think. Not sure if you can get threaded aluminum elbows without access plates or not.....The cheap pipe benders do not work with "tubing" but work with "pipe".

 

[2fpower]

Seems like there has been 1 million setbacks and things out of stock for not get a hold of some part on this build. So when I was able to get a hold of this, it really put the wind back in sail!!! Thanks @FJ73Texas !!

 

[2fpower]

Anyone have a suggestion of where to find a A/C condenser for this use? I can't find a good search place. need about 20" wide and 16" tall.

 

[robmobile73]

Anyone have a suggestion of where to find a A/C condenser for this use? I can't find a good search place. need about 20" wide and 16" tall.

I got mine on Amazon. Mine is about the same as the radiator, and I wish it was bigger. Mine is also too close to the radiator and there is heat bleed over . Bigger and decent gap is better than stacked tight.

 

[2fpower]

I got mine on Amazon. Mine is about the same as the radiator, and I wish it was bigger. Mine is also too close to the radiator and there is heat bleed over . Bigger and decent gap is better than stacked tight.

part number?

 

[robmobile73]

part number?

I have a vintage air super series climate control system. This is the condenser I use, but I think it is too small. Universal Air Conditioner CN 20015XC A/C Condenser Amazon product ASIN B0100721JA