Builds Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build (2 Viewers)

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Got the oil pressure sender tapped. And I Keep whittling away with the wiring. Did one trip to the junkyard this weekend to get some pigtails. Not sure why the PSI harness didn’t come with the starter connection… or why it says that the oil pressure sensor was optional… last night got tired of wiring so I finished sound deadening the floor.

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Got the oil pressure sender tapped. And I Keep whittling away with the wiring. Did one trip to the junkyard this weekend to get some pigtails. Not sure why the PSI harness didn’t come with the starter connection… or why it says that the oil pressure sensor was optional… last night got tired of wiring so I finished sound deadening the floor.

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Starter trigger wire isn’t just a small ring terminal?

They probably said the oil pressure sensor is optional because it isn’t monitored or required by the GM ECM. A lot of people put the Toyota pressure sensor where you are, but it’s kind of in harm’s way IMO. I recommend placing it on top of the block where the GM sensor is. They can both be there, or you can eliminate the GM one altogether.
 
dumb question.. the GM computer doesn't need oil pressure to run like the old TBI computer/Fuel pump? I seem to remember my old TBI needed oil pressure to continue to run the fuel pump or something like that.. it was the 90's. i'm sure things have changed.
 
dumb question.. the GM computer doesn't need oil pressure to run like the old TBI computer/Fuel pump? I seem to remember my old TBI needed oil pressure to continue to run the fuel pump or something like that.. it was the 90's. i'm sure things have changed.
No
 
There’s been some twists and turn on this build so maybe I’m mistaken on what’s going in this truck now. Isn’t this a Gen3 aluminum 5.3 that’s going in?
 
There’s been some twists and turn on this build so maybe I’m mistaken on what’s going in this truck now. Isn’t this a Gen3 aluminum 5.3 that’s going in?

Nope, this is Gen IV, 6.0 cast block, with 6l90 tranny now out of 2011 GM 2500 truck.

PSI says that VVTI has to have the oil pressure sender -- three wire unit, part number

ACDelco 213-4411 / 12673134 GM​


Starter has this plug....

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Nope, this is Gen IV, 6.0 cast block, with 6l90 tranny now out of 2011 GM 2500 truck.

PSI says that VVTI has to have the oil pressure sender -- three wire unit, part number

ACDelco 213-4411 / 12673134 GM​


Starter has this plug....

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10-4. What I remembered was a Gen3 LM4 being discussed/purchased early on. I’m on the same page now. That explains the starter plug too.
 
10-4. What I remembered was a Gen3 LM4 being discussed/purchased early on. I’m on the same page now. That explains the starter plug too.

Yeah, lots happened since then. Just was not room for the h55f, so the rabbit hole started.....
 
Lots of wiring is getting done, so getting closer to starting the engine and hearing it for the first time in a year.

Finally got the oil and water (toyota) gauges hooked up. Fuel is in the tank, all the PSI wires are done except to the Transmission shifter and I have to figure out where to put the tranny cable, so we are getting closer.

Another note on the PSI harness, there is a diagram for the brake switch and talks about a white wire.... although there is no white wire on the harness. Talked to customer support again and that white wire is on stock chevy vehicle, so ignore.
 
This happened.

 
10-4. What I remembered was a Gen3 LM4 being discussed/purchased early on. I’m on the same page now. That explains the starter plug too.
What are you do for the top of the block radiator air thing? Steam lines.
 
What are you do for the top of the block radiator air thing? Steam lines.
The 80 series radiator has a nipple it can plumb to. Easy to add to yours if there isn’t one. You using a aftermarket radiator?
 
There should be a wire going to the brake switch I would think. The ecu needs to know if the brake pedal is pushed so it can know when to engage or disengage torque converter lockup. Although gen4 is different than my Gen 3, I would think the gen4 ecu would need this. Also keep in mind going up the passes in Colorado if that's where your going gets the exhaust very hot. I've melted wire loom 6" away from the headers. So heat protection is a big deal. It also really tests your cooling system. Congrats on the startup. For sound deadening I recommend stuff that absorbs low tone bass type sounds. That seems to be the sound type the LS produces. So stuff like mass loaded vinyl and good foam. A lot of sound deadening I see applied on mud is for higher tones.
 
There should be a wire going to the brake switch I would think. The ecu needs to know if the brake pedal is pushed so it can know when to engage or disengage torque converter lockup. Although gen4 is different than my Gen 3, I would think the gen4 ecu would need this. Also keep in mind going up the passes in Colorado if that's where your going gets the exhaust very hot. I've melted wire loom 6" away from the headers. So heat protection is a big deal. It also really tests your cooling system. Congrats on the startup. For sound deadening I recommend stuff that absorbs low tone bass type sounds. That seems to be the sound type the LS produces. So stuff like mass loaded vinyl and good foam. A lot of sound deadening I see applied on mud is for higher tones.

Yes, I do have a wire going from the computer to the brake 12v when applied.

On heat protection, what do you recommend, as you have looms running right next to the exhaust on both sides of the engine? What do you use? Aluminum shield, or some sort of wrap?

For sound deadening, I am doing Second skin mat and then spray on top of it.

@ c2dfj45 shared how they do their sound deadener process, so this is exactly what I will do inside and under the car.

Clean and prep metal.....on this truck we power washed, removed all OEM sound deadener, nylon brushed/sanded/wire brushed the whole floor(the floor was a mix of some paint that was adhered well, some not). Used the Master Series to seal up any rust(I think we painted most of the floor in this truck to 'seal' it). Scuffed the Master Series with 320 or what they recommend. We applied Second Skin Damplifier Pro FIRST(these are the butyl sound deadening sheets).....then we sprayed on the Spectrum....about 1-2mm I think. I waited a couple of weeks for it to dry just because we got busy with other things. 7-10 days is what they told me for the water to evaporate for full cure. We then knocked down the Spectrum with some 80 grit......then we sprayed our Raptor. The rear on this truck is raptor over the Master Series....no Spectrum back there. We did the floor in 2 sprays. I wasn't overly concerned with sound deadening on the rear floor....we will lay down some Luxury Liner Pro if it becomes an issue. Just the small amount of sound deadener we used in the Troopy is amazing....very nice inside. The amount we used on the 79 is ridiculous...that truck is next level quiet and solid.

On the 79s...since they are very clean inside and all new, we simply clean the metal, stick down the Damplifer, then Spectrum over it....no scuffing....and that was per Second Skin...however you can scuff if you want(red scotchbrite). When that Spectrum dries, it does not come off. We don't Raptor the 79s inside since they are all covered with flooring.

Since the undersides of the 79s are brand new and primed/e-coated, we do the same thing.....clean, then we roll on the Spectrum under the truck. You can use their additive to thicken it up(Sludge) and that allows it to really cling to everything. We do that in the cabs up in the corners of everything. The Spectrum can be used as undercoating.....it's solid stuff. I have yet to do a truck with it on the firewall(exterior...facing motor). I like being able to clean engine compartments. I think the Spectrum would be nearly impossible to clean.

I pull the tape on the Spectrum as soon as we are done with it and it's not wet to the touch. We re-tape when we Raptor.

The biggest thing on the 79 was doing the rear cab wall....again the same thing.....scuff, apply Damplifier Pro(we did the ENTIRE wall), Spectrum. Spectrum was used on just the exterior of the wall. I'm convinced that doing the exterior cab wall probably was the biggest sound reducer....that gap between the bed and the cab must have all kinds of sound and harmonics going on.

It's all really forgiving stuff....clean is most important. The only word of caution is that if you are going to spray the Raptor over the Spectrum, try to get that Spectrum as smooth as you can or you'll be loading up the Raptor to try and cover all the peaks and valleys created by the Spectrum. A lot of that is because of how fine we spray the Raptor....I think if you went with more of a heavier coat or texture, you're going to be fine. I love fine texture bed liner....hard to achieve that over Spectrum or Lizard Skin unless it's been sanded smooth. Hope that makes sense.

I'm wondering if the website saying you don't have to prime doesn't mean that nothing special is required. I'm sure it could go over bare metal but that sounds sketchy. Our primer is always Master Series.
 
Yes, I do have a wire going from the computer to the brake 12v when applied.

On heat protection, what do you recommend, as you have looms running right next to the exhaust on both sides of the engine? What do you use? Aluminum shield, or some sort of wrap?

For sound deadening, I am doing Second skin mat and then spray on top of it.

@ c2dfj45 shared how they do their sound deadener process, so this is exactly what I will do inside and under the car.

Clean and prep metal.....on this truck we power washed, removed all OEM sound deadener, nylon brushed/sanded/wire brushed the whole floor(the floor was a mix of some paint that was adhered well, some not). Used the Master Series to seal up any rust(I think we painted most of the floor in this truck to 'seal' it). Scuffed the Master Series with 320 or what they recommend. We applied Second Skin Damplifier Pro FIRST(these are the butyl sound deadening sheets).....then we sprayed on the Spectrum....about 1-2mm I think. I waited a couple of weeks for it to dry just because we got busy with other things. 7-10 days is what they told me for the water to evaporate for full cure. We then knocked down the Spectrum with some 80 grit......then we sprayed our Raptor. The rear on this truck is raptor over the Master Series....no Spectrum back there. We did the floor in 2 sprays. I wasn't overly concerned with sound deadening on the rear floor....we will lay down some Luxury Liner Pro if it becomes an issue. Just the small amount of sound deadener we used in the Troopy is amazing....very nice inside. The amount we used on the 79 is ridiculous...that truck is next level quiet and solid.

On the 79s...since they are very clean inside and all new, we simply clean the metal, stick down the Damplifer, then Spectrum over it....no scuffing....and that was per Second Skin...however you can scuff if you want(red scotchbrite). When that Spectrum dries, it does not come off. We don't Raptor the 79s inside since they are all covered with flooring.

Since the undersides of the 79s are brand new and primed/e-coated, we do the same thing.....clean, then we roll on the Spectrum under the truck. You can use their additive to thicken it up(Sludge) and that allows it to really cling to everything. We do that in the cabs up in the corners of everything. The Spectrum can be used as undercoating.....it's solid stuff. I have yet to do a truck with it on the firewall(exterior...facing motor). I like being able to clean engine compartments. I think the Spectrum would be nearly impossible to clean.

I pull the tape on the Spectrum as soon as we are done with it and it's not wet to the touch. We re-tape when we Raptor.

The biggest thing on the 79 was doing the rear cab wall....again the same thing.....scuff, apply Damplifier Pro(we did the ENTIRE wall), Spectrum. Spectrum was used on just the exterior of the wall. I'm convinced that doing the exterior cab wall probably was the biggest sound reducer....that gap between the bed and the cab must have all kinds of sound and harmonics going on.

It's all really forgiving stuff....clean is most important. The only word of caution is that if you are going to spray the Raptor over the Spectrum, try to get that Spectrum as smooth as you can or you'll be loading up the Raptor to try and cover all the peaks and valleys created by the Spectrum. A lot of that is because of how fine we spray the Raptor....I think if you went with more of a heavier coat or texture, you're going to be fine. I love fine texture bed liner....hard to achieve that over Spectrum or Lizard Skin unless it's been sanded smooth. Hope that makes sense.

I'm wondering if the website saying you don't have to prime doesn't mean that nothing special is required. I'm sure it could go over bare metal but that sounds sketchy. Our primer is always Master Series.
Personally I don't think the thin stuff like lizard skin or asphault type abarrier helps much just because the thin stuff only blocks higher frequency noises which I don't think most cruisers emit much of. But I'm a amateur at sound blocking. As far as heat protection I used something similar to this:
I then cut it in long strips and wrapped it around lines, wires, and hoses like a hotdog bun. Then I stapled where the two sides met so the wrap cant open up. Sometimes I used safety wire rather than staples. The wrap has adhesive but I don't trust it alone to hold the wrap on. Thus the staples or safety wire.
 
Personally I don't think the thin stuff like lizard skin or asphault type abarrier helps much just because the thin stuff only blocks higher frequency noises which I don't think most cruisers emit much of. But I'm a amateur at sound blocking. As far as heat protection I used something similar to this:
I then cut it in long strips and wrapped it around lines, wires, and hoses like a hotdog bun. Then I stapled where the two sides met so the wrap cant open up. Sometimes I used safety wire rather than staples. The wrap has adhesive but I don't trust it alone to hold the wrap on. Thus the staples or safety wire.


We just use a specialty sheath for the same purpose.

Cheers
 
A lot of people put the Toyota pressure sensor where you are, but it’s kind of in harm’s way IMO. I recommend placing it on top of the block where the GM sensor is. They can both be there, or you can eliminate the GM one altogether.
Do you just use a tee so they both get pressure off the same hole in the block? The Toyota sender is pretty big, but I guess there should be enough room.
 
Do you just use a tee so they both get pressure off the same hole in the block? The Toyota sender is pretty big, but I guess there should be enough room.
Yeah something like that. You can cobble it together yourself, but Mark’s 4wd makes exactly that. Me (Gen3) I did not wire in the GM sensor. I just placed the Toyota one in its place using a probably linked earlier in the thread.
 
With the amazing weather decided to get the sound deadening completed and sprayed. Thanks again goes to @tornadoalleycruiser for helping!!! It seems like overkill plastic in off the ceiling…. But using a ceiling texture spray gun, The air would bubble back up through it and I actually have blobs on the ceiling plastic!!!

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