Ultimate Rust / Undercarriage Thread (13 Viewers)

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2004 from Virginia. 120k miles for $16k? TB done at 100k but that was 6 years ago


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Tried to tackle what I thought was some minor rust remediation. Got a big L shaped hole in the fender. Looks like I'm about to buy some Bondo and some wire mesh -- See what I can do

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Tried to tackle what I thought was some minor rust remediation. Got a big L shaped hole in the fender. Looks like I'm about to buy some Bondo and some wire mesh -- See what I can do

That was optimistic to think it might be a minor repair. Don't forget long strand (and short strand) body filler. It's good stuff. You might need some wire mesh too.
 
Very optimistic. Since water sat in the bottom of that panel -- its likely the rust is coating the inside and eating its way through to the outside. This presents an difficult issue. Either way I am going to use 97 advice: Wire mesh to fill hole, bondo fiberglass followed by bondo Gold.

Any advice on my approach to prep?:
1) Either I go HAM and remove loose metal with force(thumbing it)-- thoroughly sand the inside of the panel with power tool(belt/oscillating sander on outside, dremmel on inside? and do a decent job on the inside before undercoating. (5-6hrs prep)
OR
2) Or I approach gingerly -- use my sanding block on the outside-- remove any metal that becomes loose via sanding, don't touch the inside at all before undercoating.(1-2hrs prep)
 
Can’t you just find a used fender on eBay for like $100 and save yourself a world of headache? You literally have to cut off the whole bottom of that fender and weld in new sheetmetal. Putting bondo on that is not the right way to do it.
 
Havent had much luck for used parts on ebay -- on here fenders go fast.

Bondo is definitely a bush league fix -- I just don't like having a hole in my car. Am antsy to get it closed up. Sadly, nobody around here is willing to touch rust. Maryland drivers keep collision centers plenty busy without headaches of rust.

I can get sheetmetal -- is 22 or 26 gauge SS appropriate for this application?
 
Any advice on my approach to prep?:
1) Either I go HAM and remove loose metal with force(thumbing it)-- thoroughly sand the inside of the panel with power tool(belt/oscillating sander on outside, dremmel on inside? and do a decent job on the inside before undercoating. (5-6hrs prep)
OR
2) Or I approach gingerly -- use my sanding block on the outside-- remove any metal that becomes loose via sanding, don't touch the inside at all before undercoating.(1-2hrs prep)

It's got to be number 1 - aggressively remove anything that will come off so you start with a solid foundation. Clean up with a wire brush, drill scuff pad, etc. "Bondos" have come a long ways in the last half century. There's a time and a place for them. I'm guessing the rest of your truck has some other problems. Fix them all "correctly" and you'll likely have more in it than the truck is worth.
 
You're exactly right 97. Do I really need to spend $300-600 to buy/paint a new fender? or Can I spend $60-80 and a whole lotta elbow grease :hillbilly:
 
I'll need to do a more official post but enjoy some remediation pics. My redneck fix. Did not want to repaint the entire fender. Tried to keep the patch/repaint to a minimum. Just wanted to give myself 5 yrs. or so.


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Havent had much luck for used parts on ebay -- on here fenders go fast.

Bondo is definitely a bush league fix -- I just don't like having a hole in my car. Am antsy to get it closed up. Sadly, nobody around here is willing to touch rust. Maryland drivers keep collision centers plenty busy without headaches of rust.

I can get sheetmetal -- is 22 or 26 gauge SS appropriate for this application?
replace it with sheet metal. Over time, bondo filled areas will crack and split open. These cracks will sometimes cause a failed inspection. My FJ40 rear fenders are filled with bondo. Never fill a hole with it, EVER.
 
Never say never -- No one is suggesting just filling a hole with bondo. You use wire mesh and build the fiberglass up over the patch. Sand down to the contour of the body panel. Patching the fender with bondo and wire mesh is infinitely better than keeping the rust and having metal that crumbles like a tortilla chip. before and after

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Hello! Hoping to get some opinions on the rust on this LX470. I am trying to find a reason to explain the low price of this vehicle. Low miles, amazing maintenance history, and very low price. The carfax shows three "very minor" damage incidents. No air bag deployments. Could that impact the selling price significantly?

I have just started my journey towards buying a LC and am taking my sweet time. This is the first I have looked at in person. I am looking at this vehicle as a test of my abilities to find "the one". I don't anticipate buying this vehicle. I am thinking the rust, plus three "minor" accidents explains the price.

Also looks like the airbags have already been deleted? If you happen to see any other issues, let me know!

Thanks for any insight!

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