TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (24 Viewers)

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I use a heavy Anderson connector rather than a switch. Plug in and go and you can use the plug for other things like jumper cables etc.
 
Same.
Anderson connectors. My winches are never connected until I need to use them. Then I disconnect them again after I’m done.
If the winch ever started having issues I could simply just pull the plug on it.
 
Any particular brand, seems to be a bunch of chinese junk out there its hard to tell whats quality.
 
Not sure. Bought mine such a long time ago.

The most important part is to insulate your wire after you crimp the connector that slides into the plug. And use lots of dialectic grease.I had to replace my ground wire due to it rusting up on me because the insulation I used had failed or I put it on improperly.

Either way. If you go down this route. Buy the hand held hydraulic crimper. I love mine. A few pumps and the machine does all the work. Way better than the old hammer crimper I used to use.
 
I have the crimper, same one, its been great
I use a heavy Anderson connector rather than a switch. Plug in and go and you can use the plug for other things like jumper cables etc.

Are these connectors easy to pull apart quickly. Part of the reason I was looking at a switch is that if something went wrong while winching a switch would be easy to cut power.

Do you straight wire to the battery or do add a fuse circuit in line?
 
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I have the crimper, same one, its been great


Are these connectors easy to pull apart quickly. Part of the reason I was looking at a switch is that if something went wrong while winching a switch would be easy to cut power.

Do you straight wire to the battery or do add a fuse circuit in line?
they can be tricky to pull apart. A little dirt gets inside the clipping mechanism but unless your 2 years old you should be able to pull the two connectors apart.


I have my winch on my 80 directly wired to my second battery on my 80.

On my f250, I have a rear mounted winch and it is fused. I just didn’t feel safe spanning the length of my truck with a battery wire without a fuse.
I simply pop the fuse handle when not in use so the wire is only live when I am actively using the winch.

Both have worked flawlessly for me. other than the time I had to replace my ground wire on my 80 set up that I already mentioned in my previous post.

I will take some photos of my set up later and post it if you like.
 
I use a 500a continuous solenoid to disconnect the winch in moonshine. I can power the winch or isolate the winch from a switch in the cab. Very convenient, and it's been solid for a bunch of years.

Anderson connections are great if you're moving winches between vehicles, but for a permanent mount winch, seems like extra steps for no reason.
 
Just picked this up at local dealer. $24.69 total price.
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Slowly working on getting something running again. And seeing more than 10feet in front of me.
 
Wrenching.... but Subaru wrenching. Sadly the reason I haven't been able to move much on the cruiser outside of getting the engine/trans and the adapter kit is the subaru has been eating up my time and cash. Not sure if anyone even remembers me buying an oubatck XT wagon a few years back. Hell I barely do since i've only now driven it about 720 miles in that two years. Suspension was messed up when I bought it due to it being slid into a curb in the ice storm from two years ago. I replaced the entirety of the back suspension and subframe, excep the sway bar. I also replaced the front passenger control arm. Got it driving straight just to find out that it spewed coolant all over the block every time the boost hit. Passed the compression test and leak down test so I was confused as to how it was happening and went around looking for hairline cracks, cloged coolant lines (there is a ton on this car) etc...... finally figured out that the block had been slightly stripped around one head bolt and it lifted slightly under boost. Rather than getting a new block and resuing the old stuff or fixing the back block I just got a brand new remand enigne from a local subaru shop.... they ended up installing it as they were light on work and did the install for only $250 extra including adding some other parts I bought (flywheel, clutch, motor mounts, radiator, all the cooland hoses, hard and soft, better oil pick u and baffle for the oil pan and a cylinder 4 cooling modification) so I coulnd't pass on that deal and not give myself a headache. I've put 700 miles on the new motor so far and im now about to install, bigger brakes from a legacy spec b, whiteline front a rear sway bars, bushings and links, a bigger all metal intercooler to make sure I don't get any boost leaks (the factory is a plastic formed to metal on the ends and they are notorious for leaking or splitting), a master clyinder brace to stop flex from the thing weak firewall, a air/oil seperator (another relibilitiy mod that every subaru can benefit from) and a strut tower brace. Always wanted a fast wagon and this one will have around 350 HP at the crank when done. Just need to find a bit more leg room with some seat extenders. Car already had a slightly bigger turbo from a newer wrx, cattless up and down pipes and a tune when I bought it.

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Building another 140. Frame modifications are complete, ready to start body mounts. Getting an LS3 Connect and Cruise package.

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Bud Built FJ40 Quarter Panel armor Install - Anyone done it?

Recently ordered some 3/16" quarter panel armor from Bud Built for the 'Redline Cut' to accommodate my rear axle stretch and 37s that is in the works currently.

Just looking for ideas on the best way to mount the armor over the existing quarters, my buddy has an XJ and I helped him install similar armor on it a couple years ago and we used a bunch of allen head bolts from the outside through a bunch of holes drilled through the armor and body.
 
Bud Built FJ40 Quarter Panel armor Install - Anyone done it?

Recently ordered some 3/16" quarter panel armor from Bud Built for the 'Redline Cut' to accommodate my rear axle stretch and 37s that is in the works currently.

Just looking for ideas on the best way to mount the armor over the existing quarters, my buddy has an XJ and I helped him install similar armor on it a couple years ago and we used a bunch of allen head bolts from the outside through a bunch of holes drilled through the armor and body.
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My new to me 37s and beadlocks I just got installed, really helps add some motivation! And yes I know the rear tires are ridiculously close to the body. It won’t ever get driven before being stretched.
 
Twt on the garage? Making my garage doors taller has been my winter project.

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Sheathing and siding below the header will be removed. Trying to stay low key till I get both doors done.

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did you buy new tracts, or just find extensions?
 
did you buy new tracts, or just find extensions?
I bought a used 7' door off Craigslist with the panels and tracks. I modified my existing and added a few extensions cut out of the tracks that came with the used door.
 

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