TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (27 Viewers)
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lumbee1
Native American
No, not normal, lol. It's like someone forgot the big cup washers when they put the spiders back in.
40LandCruising
Anderson
Gotcha, there are cup washers behind the spiders, are there different thicknesses?
Some of the Toyota 9.5" diffs I've been in do have cup washers that the spiders run on. I don't think they have different thicknesses, but I'm not sure.
given the red storage stuff in the background, this looks remarkably like discount tire. Where I've gotten a LOT of tires from. Yikes. I guess they "know what they're doing." Until one of those seals starts to slowly fail and you're figuring out a good way to correct that massive f-up.
40LandCruising
Anderson
So in a perfect diff those spiders shouldn’t move at all? Or very slightly?
Barely at all, but it's been a minute since I've been in a cruiser diff.
Someone in this club has to have a stock 9.5" open diff they can show.
40LandCruising
Anderson
Sounds like I should throw a lunchbox in it and toss the spider gears…
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Replacing several rubber suspension parts on my Jan-95 80 this week. Original, OEM, shocks, body mount bushings and all four rod ends. I want to do this in stages to try to quantify which are the best bang for the buck, in terms of single items to replace to improve ride quality.
Rear shocks are in.
No photos, because I didn't think to measure first, but I just replaced the rear shocks on my DD '95 80, and got a 1.5-in lift! The old shocks were still good, according to the FSM test, but they absolutely didn't hold the rear (unloaded) weight as well as the new shocks. No appreciable difference in unloaded driveability, that I could tell.
FWIW, I'm replacing all four shocks (I'll measure the front before and after this time!) and Toyota has new part numbers for the shocks. If you look them up on PartSouq or any of the Toyota e-commerce sites, like McGeorge, they show up as discontinued.
New front shock: 48511-69435
Retainers: (these are the same for upper and lower mounting)
90948-02144 (4 each req'd for each shock)
90948-02141 (2 each req'd for each shock)
Old front shock: 48511-69386
Note: new shocks come with new bushings and upper mounting nuts, but not retainers
The front shocks (Tokico) are the same shock, but the bushings are different than the old ones. I'd recommend getting new "retainers" (the washers between the bushings), unless you want a 20 minute job to become a 4 hour job while you clean, derust and paint the old ones.
New rear shock: 48531-69417
Retainers:
Upper - 90948-02144 (2 each req'd for each shock) & 90948-02141 (1 each req'd for each shock) [these are the same as the fronts]
Lower - 90948-03011; the forward retainer/washer is on the mounting bolt, 90119-12088
Old rear shock: 48531-69485
The '93-'95 rear shocks (Tokico) are NLA, according to PartSouq and Toyota e-commerce (ToyotaPartsDeal claims to have them at $23 each -wish I had checked there first).
They have been superseded by the (Tokico) rear shocks for the '96-'97 models. Dimensionally they appear to be the same, but the new shocks have a small sheetmetal doubler welded onto the lower tube (extra slam protection, maybe?). I installed that facing forward.
Side note: if I hadn't had an air impact wrench, one of the rear lower bolts would not have come off. I was expecting the support pin to break as the wrench hammered on it, but it finally came loose. I'm not a fan of that mounting design. I feel for anyone who's broken one. I definitely recommend removing the lower bolt first, if you're replacing the rear shocks.
Also, curious observation: the driver's side lower cleared the lower control arm easily, but the passenger side wouldn't clear without serious axle wiggling. Odd. I had to install the rearmost retainer plate, then the bushing and then the shock and front bushing to get it on.
Rear shocks are in.
No photos, because I didn't think to measure first, but I just replaced the rear shocks on my DD '95 80, and got a 1.5-in lift! The old shocks were still good, according to the FSM test, but they absolutely didn't hold the rear (unloaded) weight as well as the new shocks. No appreciable difference in unloaded driveability, that I could tell.
FWIW, I'm replacing all four shocks (I'll measure the front before and after this time!) and Toyota has new part numbers for the shocks. If you look them up on PartSouq or any of the Toyota e-commerce sites, like McGeorge, they show up as discontinued.
New front shock: 48511-69435
Retainers: (these are the same for upper and lower mounting)
90948-02144 (4 each req'd for each shock)
90948-02141 (2 each req'd for each shock)
Old front shock: 48511-69386
Note: new shocks come with new bushings and upper mounting nuts, but not retainers
The front shocks (Tokico) are the same shock, but the bushings are different than the old ones. I'd recommend getting new "retainers" (the washers between the bushings), unless you want a 20 minute job to become a 4 hour job while you clean, derust and paint the old ones.
New rear shock: 48531-69417
Retainers:
Upper - 90948-02144 (2 each req'd for each shock) & 90948-02141 (1 each req'd for each shock) [these are the same as the fronts]
Lower - 90948-03011; the forward retainer/washer is on the mounting bolt, 90119-12088
Old rear shock: 48531-69485
The '93-'95 rear shocks (Tokico) are NLA, according to PartSouq and Toyota e-commerce (ToyotaPartsDeal claims to have them at $23 each -wish I had checked there first).
They have been superseded by the (Tokico) rear shocks for the '96-'97 models. Dimensionally they appear to be the same, but the new shocks have a small sheetmetal doubler welded onto the lower tube (extra slam protection, maybe?). I installed that facing forward.
Side note: if I hadn't had an air impact wrench, one of the rear lower bolts would not have come off. I was expecting the support pin to break as the wrench hammered on it, but it finally came loose. I'm not a fan of that mounting design. I feel for anyone who's broken one. I definitely recommend removing the lower bolt first, if you're replacing the rear shocks.
Also, curious observation: the driver's side lower cleared the lower control arm easily, but the passenger side wouldn't clear without serious axle wiggling. Odd. I had to install the rearmost retainer plate, then the bushing and then the shock and front bushing to get it on.
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Wired up Koito H4's and spooled up an 8274 with synthetic cable and blingy fairlead bits. Dusty is insured. Going to tag it this week and start driving it.
![IMG_6460[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1440' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1440'%2F%3E "IMG_6460[1].JPG")
![IMG_6466[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1440' height='1920' viewBox%3D'0 0 1440 1920'%2F%3E "IMG_6466[1].JPG")
I'm just giddy about this truck. Check out these before pics:
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Thanks, Travis. Not yet. Going to get the tag for it today. I'll get it out and driving around and see how it behaves. Once I feel 100 percent about it, I'll take it over to Mr. Cox and we'll take it out. I spoke to him yesterday and he said he didn't want coffee. He wanted us to go get a 6-pack. Can't argue with that!
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
Logan’s run mud has been pressure washed off and the 80 is back in the garage for a bunch of little maintenance stuff and a few upgrades, rustproofing on the chassis and paint. I have been collecting parts for a few months
Want to get it in top shape for my next trip in a few weeks to Arkansas for the southern cruiser crawl.
Want to get it in top shape for my next trip in a few weeks to Arkansas for the southern cruiser crawl.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
In the process of a long overdue knuckle service, and repair for a really troubling death wobble. Turns out, the moron who torqued the bearing preload nut didn't get the star washer completely bent over the nut flats, and BOTH the preload nut and the lock nut backed off, all the way to the drive flange. Surprisingly, nothing other than the preload washer was damaged.
Since I'm waiting for parts I hadn't intended to replace, I thought I'd do the right thing and completely clean and repaint the parts. First job: remove the grease and oil from the knuckle housing. Since I don't have one of those high-speed, low-drag automatic heated parts washers, I had to McGyver something:
This was after I scraped the grease out/off and sprayed it down with ZEP purple a couple of times. I got the water boiling on the stove so that the camp stove didn't have to do any heavy lifting. A couple of capsful of Dawn and away I went.
Normally, I'd do this in the parts washer pan, but it's full of all the other greasy, oily, cruddy parts.
It did a great job on the brushes, too!
All was well, until the camp stove ran out of gas. Literally. So, I had to go to the backup:
Since I'm waiting for parts I hadn't intended to replace, I thought I'd do the right thing and completely clean and repaint the parts. First job: remove the grease and oil from the knuckle housing. Since I don't have one of those high-speed, low-drag automatic heated parts washers, I had to McGyver something:
This was after I scraped the grease out/off and sprayed it down with ZEP purple a couple of times. I got the water boiling on the stove so that the camp stove didn't have to do any heavy lifting. A couple of capsful of Dawn and away I went.
Normally, I'd do this in the parts washer pan, but it's full of all the other greasy, oily, cruddy parts.
It did a great job on the brushes, too!
All was well, until the camp stove ran out of gas. Literally. So, I had to go to the backup:
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Let me guess...the bearing backed off on the driver side. Am I right? I've seen it before. Wheel rotation moves the nut counterclockwise and loosens it. Nice job on the hillbilly parts washer!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Oddly enough, it was the passenger side wheel. I haven't broken the driver's side down yet, but I'll be surprised if there's any problem there, just based on the way it felt while I was driving.
I ordered spare internals for two wheels, just in case I'm wrong.
I'm replacing the rod ends while I'm at it, since I had to break them all off anyway. I'm not looking forward to pulling them out; they were put in on the line in Japan.
I ordered spare internals for two wheels, just in case I'm wrong.
I'm replacing the rod ends while I'm at it, since I had to break them all off anyway. I'm not looking forward to pulling them out; they were put in on the line in Japan.
Tractor Supply sells the big galvanized tub that you will need to degrease yourself after doing the knuckle job.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Got one of them, too. I'm saving up for the dog Bonnie won't allow.
