TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (12 Viewers)

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Always was annoyed with the 40's feeble interior light - even with an LED bulb. Basically required a headlamp to actually find anything in the truck after dark. Stuck some cheapo 12v LED strip lights around the interior, wired to the factory interior door switch, and "let there be light". Huge difference. The strip length was nearly perfect - from driver windshield corner, around the side, rear, other side, and to passenger windshield corner. Zero splicing. Also can undo it all to factory in about 10 min. Highly recommend.

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Love it! I always recommend to folks to get the warm white option whenever possible.
 
Love it! I always recommend to folks to get the warm white option whenever possible.
They seemed yellow online but might look better installed. I wanted "surgical operating room" lighting to brighten the cave like interior. Kids wanted color changing....
 
They seemed yellow online but might look better installed. I wanted "surgical operating room" lighting to brighten the cave like interior. Kids wanted color changing....
Color changing via led lights is def cheaper and easier than a color change via paint! Looks sharp and clean.
 
Belmont Exhaust Spa:

got a great recommendation from @roadstr6 to hit up Buck at Boulevard Muffler in Belmont for a custom exhaust. He is an artist and loves his trade... well he loves cars, speed, and good stories. In a two hour span I was in and out, and about thirty mins of that was he and I chatting with his buddies who came by with awesome cars and trucks to drool over.

Against the mud grain, I opted for his quieter than stock option, since my son sleeps above our garage and since for years I’ve been disturbing my neighbors and going def in the process. We routed it out the drivers side behind the rear spring... I originally palnned to route it through the leaf spring to keep it closer to the tire but my springs are too old and flat. He knew to keep it above the frame rails, and selected a thin and long muffler from a hero, yikes.
I’m super thrilled with the result and even stoked about the very fair price. Will need to take the forty there soon also. Very fun to hear some of his stories and to have gotten to learn a bit about metalology and tube bending in the process. Now I get to enjoy the wonderful tweety-bobber pop music that my kids crave...

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Had him move my bumper back and over a bit to ensure my unicorn bumper corner doesn’t melt... jk don’t worry, no bumpers were harmed in the process!
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Belmont Exhaust Spa:

got a great recommendation from @roadstr6 to hit up Buck at Boulevard Muffler in Belmont for a custom exhaust. He is an artist and loves his trade... well he loves cars, speed, and good stories. In a two hour span I was in and out, and about thirty mins of that was he and I chatting with his buddies who came by with awesome cars and trucks to drool over.

Against the mud grain, I opted for his quieter than stock option, since my son sleeps above our garage and since for years I’ve been disturbing my neighbors and going def in the process. We routed it out the drivers side behind the rear spring... I originally palnned to route it through the leaf spring to keep it closer to the tire but my springs are too old and flat. He knew to keep it above the frame rails, and selected a thin and long muffler from a hero, yikes.
I’m super thrilled with the result and even stoked about the very fair price. Will need to take the forty there soon also. Very fun to hear some of his stories and to have gotten to learn a bit about metalology and tube bending in the process. Now I get to enjoy the wonderful tweety-bobber pop music that my kids crave...

View attachment 2525225View attachment 2525224Had him move my bumper back and over a bit to ensure my unicorn bumper corner doesn’t melt... jk don’t worry, no bumpers were harmed in the process!View attachment 2525226
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yeah I had him do some work , it was cheap and done well
 
First time using the rotisserie. Although many mount to the rotisserie using only the front and rear body mount locations, I chose to build trusses that attach to all body mounts and attach the trusses to the rotisserie. A bent 60 series body is not something I want.

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Now that is cool. I love the problem solving solutions you come up with Stan.
Def my kind of thinking. Probably why I can relate to a lot of Toyota/ landcruiser/ car guys’ mentality.
 
Thanks Del, I'm not the first to truss a body on a twirler. Just my version of it.
 
I always thought body twisting on a rotisserie was more of an issue with long convertibles, but it certainly doesn't hurt on a 60! Nice work.

What rotisserie is that? Looks seriously well-built.
 
Last time. This better work!!!
I installed two new gears in the seat this evening.
I am still waiting for new cap and two more spare gears to arrive in the mail from Gamiviti.
If they get here tomorrow I will install the seat and see if it works. One thing that I saw on the video that Gamivit made is that he test the seat out first before bolting it down to allow the gears to and the seat to adjust. I will follow the way he does it in the video and hope the seat works. That’s the only difference in how I have done it I. The past.
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Fingers crossed for ya' Del. I feel the frustration!
 
I'm searching for a good Charlotte area bodyshop that can repaint my '94 green hood. The clearcoat is nasty, but the paint and panel are in good shape. I plan to strip the extra bits and remove/reinstall it myself.

I used to take all my work to Town & Country, because the bodyshop manager and staff were excellent, but they've hired a new "master paint specialist" who knows so much more than you about painting that he doesn't need to listen to you when you tell him what you want. He actually told me he needed to match the faded paint on the body and had to charge extra for the effort.

I'm not worried about price, I only care about quality. Supposedly there is a really good custom/restoration shop somewhere in Charlotte, but I can't find it. I really don't want to deal with a shop that, like most of the industry, lives off of insurance claims.

This is the place we have gone every time my wife decides to play bumper cars. They have always done a good job, very professional.
 
Got the dreaded P1445 Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) code on our 1st gen Sequoia this weekend. I cleared the code and it hasn't returned but preliminary research indicates its just a matter of time. I was not able to determine if it was the actual pump failure or the valves sticking open but suspect the valves since it was cold and it hasn't returned.
I replaced the knock sensor on my old 2nd gen 4runner and this seems like an equivalent job but the bypass kit looks awfully tempting. Anyone replaced the pump, valves or installed the bypass kit?
 
Got the dreaded P1445 Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) code on our 1st gen Sequoia this weekend. I cleared the code and it hasn't returned but preliminary research indicates its just a matter of time. I was not able to determine if it was the actual pump failure or the valves sticking open but suspect the valves since it was cold and it hasn't returned.
I replaced the knock sensor on my old 2nd gen 4runner and this seems like an equivalent job but the bypass kit looks awfully tempting. Anyone replaced the pump, valves or installed the bypass kit?

I put that same bypass kit on a V8 4Runner after the air pump started to sound like a shop vac on start up. Installed it about 4 years ago or so, and it was still doing its job when we sold the vehicle back in May.

The kit was pretty easy to install. With some wire loom, you can make it look like it was there from the factory.
 
Mostly done with my knuckle job. Didn’t realize the snap rings don’t come with the knuckle kit so I have a few on the way that I’ll swap with the ones I reused. Also one of the u-joints on the front driveshaft feels lousy so I have a set coming to rebuild it before I reinstall it. View attachment 2530786
Shiny!
 
Need some assistance. 2000 100 Series.

The truck has a very strange pulsation when applying the brakes. I removed all 4 wheels and calipers are tight, rotors are all smooth and there is plenty of brake pad left. The pulsation does not effect the steering wheel. I did discover a loose brake line mount and some brake fluid around the connection point. The thing is the brake fluid level has not dropped in 10 months. I went on the 100 series forum and one guy only replaced rear pads and fixed the issue.

Questions.

1. Has anyone run into this issue before in 100 or other vehicle?
2. Could the loose bracket have allowed air in and causing the pulsing? See picture. I tightened it back up. It seems a little wet. Could that brake line be damaged at the spot and swelling when the brakes are applied causing the pulsation?
3. Anyone ever fixed anything like this with just new pads only?

In emergency stops it does as it should. Everything works as intended. Basically in normal driving, the brakes basically pulsate when applied.

Thank you.

uzj100

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Need some assistance. 2000 100 Series.

The truck has a very strange pulsation when applying the brakes. I removed all 4 wheels and calipers are tight, rotors are all smooth and there is plenty of brake pad left. The pulsation does not effect the steering wheel. I did discover a loose brake line mount and some brake fluid around the connection point. The thing is the brake fluid level has not dropped in 10 months. I went on the 100 series forum and one guy only replaced rear pads and fixed the issue.

Questions.

1. Has anyone run into this issue before in 100 or other vehicle?
2. Could the loose bracket have allowed air in and causing the pulsing? See picture. I tightened it back up. It seems a little wet. Could that brake line be damaged at the spot and swelling when the brakes are applied causing the pulsation?
3. Anyone ever fixed anything like this with just new pads only?

In emergency stops it does as it should. Everything works as intended. Basically in normal driving, the brakes basically pulsate when applied.

Thank you.

uzj100

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For me, warped rotors has always been the cause of a pulse sensation when braking. If you already checked for that and eliminated that possibility, please accept my apology for missing it.
 
Need some assistance. 2000 100 Series.

The truck has a very strange pulsation when applying the brakes. I removed all 4 wheels and calipers are tight, rotors are all smooth and there is plenty of brake pad left. The pulsation does not effect the steering wheel. I did discover a loose brake line mount and some brake fluid around the connection point. The thing is the brake fluid level has not dropped in 10 months. I went on the 100 series forum and one guy only replaced rear pads and fixed the issue.

Questions.

1. Has anyone run into this issue before in 100 or other vehicle?
2. Could the loose bracket have allowed air in and causing the pulsing? See picture. I tightened it back up. It seems a little wet. Could that brake line be damaged at the spot and swelling when the brakes are applied causing the pulsation?
3. Anyone ever fixed anything like this with just new pads only?

In emergency stops it does as it should. Everything works as intended. Basically in normal driving, the brakes basically pulsate when applied.

Thank you.

uzj100

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Likely you have uneven deposits on the rotors. I fix those with re-bedding the brake pads and the system scrapes away those high areas. Typically repeated (5-6) hard stops from 60-20 or so followed by a longer cooling drive.

" Despite the popular myth, brake judder is not caused by warped rotors. Judder is the result of a thickness variation in pad buildup on the rotors' surfaces. "
 

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