Do you know how many miles you had on those failed pulleys? I might have to grab some spares for mine before I get stranded somewhere. I can add them to my spare belts in the back
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The Workshop Series 1-38 (mostly)
Here's the list:
I found these today while looking for something else completely different (which is the way I always find the best stuff), and subsequently found pdf copies of most of them. The first 39 or so (above) date back to the mid 80's, but the material is pretty timeless. The individual topics are very well written; the target audience was/is model engineers in Britain. These are great references if you already know the subjects, and would make great learning aids, if you didn't! If you wanted new hardcopies, you really can't beat the price!
The issues from 39-49 I haven't found yet.
LMK if you're interested and I can either share my copies or post sites where they can be downloaded directly.
Here's the list:
I found these today while looking for something else completely different (which is the way I always find the best stuff), and subsequently found pdf copies of most of them. The first 39 or so (above) date back to the mid 80's, but the material is pretty timeless. The individual topics are very well written; the target audience was/is model engineers in Britain. These are great references if you already know the subjects, and would make great learning aids, if you didn't! If you wanted new hardcopies, you really can't beat the price!
The issues from 39-49 I haven't found yet.
LMK if you're interested and I can either share my copies or post sites where they can be downloaded directly.
We have an '06 Sequoia with the 4.7; 160k miles... The catalytic converter rattles some at idle and when shifting between drive and reverse. I put a large hose clamp around it and tightened it down and it help some but still getting that annoying rattle. Is it always the outside heat shield or is it possible for them to rattle from internal parts that are loose? Its hard to hear exactly where its coming from but I'm pretty certain its the CC. Really hesitant to keep putting my head under the car while my wife shifts between gears; I think the life insurance would be too much temptation for her.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #5,165
First off. CHOCK THE WHEELS
But yes the cc honeycomb can crumble into pieces and rattle internally. Kick or Take a rubber hammer and tap on the converter when motor is off to see if you hear the jingle.
There also may be a heat shied on the firewall or manifold as well to check.
Regeared my ferd to 4.30 last night from 4.88. Ebay diff was cheaper than buying and setting up a new gearset.
Diff has to weigh 150#. It's a lump.
Diff has to weigh 150#. It's a lump.
What was the main driver for this? Highway mpg?
This motivates me to crack open my stock rear axle that Fred Anderson grenaded with a lack of gear oil when they did my rear axle seals to see the damage. It's been sitting in my garage for ~6 months.
Reduce highway RPM from 2750 @ 70 to ~2300 @ 70, just to make it more comfortable on long drives. If I get 1-2mpg additional then I'd be tickled pink.
lumbee1
Native American
I agree. The center of the honeycomb inside of the cat can break off and rattle around. There's no way to see it unless the exhaust is separated. It happened on my old Maxima and sounded like I was dragging tin cans behind the car.First off. CHOCK THE WHEELS
But yes the cc honeycomb can crumble into pieces and rattle internally. Kick or Take a rubber hammer and tap on the converter when motor is off to see if you hear the jingle.
There also may be a heat shied on the firewall or manifold as well to check.
GLTHJ60: “Just a quick little Tuesday night project...re-geared my truck...no big whoop. Might port match the heads during my lunch break tomorrow.”
Replacing fuel injectors and stuff. Does anyone have a bore scope that I can borrow?
fourtrax
SILVER Star
i picked up a little endoscope a few years ago like this from amazon. has worked great.
Amazon product ASIN B01MYTHWK4
Amazon product ASIN B01MYTHWK4
that a D110??
Dana S130 now. Was a Dana S110, yes.
Edit:
Funny sequence of events. 04 was the cutover year between dana s135 and the Dana s110, but both were still a funky 8 lug pattern from the earlier years. 05 went to a 10 lug Dana s110, and my 05 parts truck was used to convert my 04 to 10 lug. 10 lug hubs bolt right onto the 04 spindles.
The diff I bought just recently, and installed last night, was advertised as a Dana S110 4.30 lsd diff, and shipped to me with the differential and axle shafts. Upon receipt, I realized that the new axle shafts were 36 spline, not 34 spline like s110s. Dana s130 (not s135, s130) was introduced in f450/550 trucks in the late oughts, early '10s, as a slightly higher weight capacity axle, using the same brakes, bearings, axle housing, etc. Only difference is a tad larger ring gear, and 36 spline axles instead of 34. Capacity benefit doesn't really matter to me, as I'd never max it out in original config, let alone this new config.
Anyway, now I effectively have say a 2012 Dana s130 axle in my 04 truck, with less than 80k miles on it (new wheel bearings and brakes last year) that should go down the highway much nicer than before
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NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Wow! Based on the screen shot, that scope can see straight through engine blocks and cylinder heads to look at piston rings and valves! I need to get one of those!
No need for the scope anymore. I found the fuel rail crush sleeve that I thought went down the intake.
However, having one of these scopes on hand is not a bad idea.
Off to the tool thread.
However, having one of these scopes on hand is not a bad idea.
Off to the tool thread.
Any tips on removing the square plug from the 2f to add the heater barb? A 14mm open wrench fits, but I have not been able to budge it at all. Have tried heat yet but will remove sending unit if I do. There isn’t much room to use leverage and I have never seem a square socket.
