TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

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F250 started bucking like a bronco at idle earlier. Scanned it. Found a split hose, googled it. Common issue on the motor. New one ordered.
Great excuse to drive the jetta today.

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Starter swap on laura's car. Can you see it? Three hours including a spit-shine and spark plugs.

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Finally out. Wow. What a mess.

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Weird noise coming from the front left wheel area when I hit 45mph on the 40.....any guesses? It's kind of a squealing noise. I tried searching around for some possible causes and nada.
 
Weird noise coming from the front left wheel area when I hit 45mph on the 40.....any guesses? It's kind of a squealing noise. I tried searching around for some possible causes and nada.

Is the hub extra warm when you stop? Do you feel any vibration or is it just the noise? Could be the wheel bearing. Could be the brakes, but I would think you'd hear the brakes at slower speeds too.
 
How'd you get it out? Any damage to the race?
Cutting bits with a drill. The frame is ok. The smaller u white piece needs to be replaced at some point.
 
Been a little while since I’ve been able to wrench but took the Troopy up to Newberry, SC for a meeting a few weeks back and upon departure got a few two many clicks at start for comfort. Was pretty sure I knew where to start once I got home so I began my search for contacts and a plunger. Aside from waiting 7 weeks or flying to UAE to pick up parts I decided to go that aftermarket route once my search function came through and realized yanmar also like to use Toyota parts...found a replacement starter which arrived today. Eager to get it in I didn’t snag many pics, but from what I was able to get you can clearly see why I got the hell out of Newberry, SC fast. Only requirement from OEM was I had to cut connector for ground and run ring terminal on it. I cut OEM connector far enough back so I can reuse once I get rebuild parts for my Toyota starter.

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Is the hub extra warm when you stop? Do you feel any vibration or is it just the noise? Could be the wheel bearing. Could be the brakes, but I would think you'd hear the brakes at slower speeds too.

didn't touch the hub but will drive it and check....no vibration, just noise. And it’s only doing it when I am pressing the gas. It also does it occasionally when I am about to shift from second to third gear...not most of the time but does do it sometimes.
 
@NCNole I was baffled by a squeak a few years ago that was also only when giving it gas. I'm sure my solution will NOT be yours but I eventually found a loose fender bolt. Seemed unlikely to be the culprit due to the symptom but that particular squeak scenario has never since reappeared. Strange, I know, but it is indeed, after all, MY truck.
 
Can someone please tell me the name of this part or part number.

it is the part that seals the door windows on the outside.
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i want to replace both front doors and rear doors. Mine are all crispy and now I am missing the driver side one.
 
Del, it' s called belt moulding and the parts numbers are here:
PartSouq, 80 series, panel 75-52

I bought a set from McGeorge:
McGeorge, sample, Front DS belt moulding

The moulding pieces come with the little white plastic clips to attach the moulding to the body mounted on them. It's best to use a plastic body tool to remove the old moulding pieces; you need to squeeze the arrowhead to remove it. The clips lock into holes drilled into the sheet metal. Make sure you clean the body really well before installing the new parts, otherwise they won't sit flush, water will get into the body and you'll breed rust demons.

PartSouq is cheaper (w/o shipping), but McGeorge is faster. Both are cheaper than any local dealer's price.

FWIW, the moulding beneath the rearmost sliding windows is really the most important. If it leaks, the water climbs up behind the window frame and, well, rust demons. I had to replace my window frames due to the moulding failures on both sides. The aluminum doesn't rust, but it will degrade in to a sponge. The sheet metal under the frames does rust.
 
Not many wrenches were used, but I did finish wiring up the in-cab winch controller switch panel from 12VoltGuy. Works like a charm and I love how accessible it is thanks to the kick ass bracket that @GLTHFJ60 fabbed up for me a couple weeks ago.

 
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Shameless repost from my build thread. Skim coat of bondo complete on the body shell (edit; to clarify, bondo skim coat on just the rear quarters). Epoxy primer sprayed yesterday. Very close to spraying color.

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Just when you think you have seen everything. I had a text from a customer today "Why are my gauge rings copper" I ask what he is talking about, he tells me the bezels, the gauge bezels are copper colored. So I called him, "Bored today are you, nothing better to do than hassle me on a Wed afternoon"

So he sends me a text with this photo. DAMN, those bezels were black, I have a picture of them when they were just installed. Notice how the tach bezel looks antique brass on the bottom. I called SpeedHut and they are aware of the problem, a UV issue with the black coating. The Tach is not getting as much sun.

SpeedHut is sending me new bezels, but they have not figured out a solution yet. I'll be painting them black and sending them to my customer, after I set them out in the sun for a while. I have four sets of SpeedHut gauges sitting here in the same color.

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