Continuing with the rust repair. Ps rear door. Love rot hidden by bondo!
Much better now.
Much better now.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
wow...hidden evil there. Repair looks pro!
For real man. Hidden evil *everywhere*. Thanks!
Nothing too impressive, but strangely satisying. Finally swapped in some new brake pads for the sixty fronts. The passenger side caliper made need a rebuild since the inside pad was really hard to get the piston open enough to get pad out and in. The drivers side was easy. The strange thin is the drivers side pads had no meat left, whereas the passenger side had substantially more pad left. Could a stuck or stubborn piston on the passenger side cause the pad not to wear since it engages less or something? Seems to be stubborn to depress so that makes me think of anything it would drag and therefore be more worn down than the drivers pads... which is the exact opposite.
I am crossing my fingers that the passenger side wheel squeak in heat will now disappear. Seems like the pedal pulsates less, so maybe the rotor isn’t as bad as I feared.
The left pads are the drivers side, with no pad left. The passenger side had meat left and that was the stubborn caliper and squeaky when heated wheel.
ill try to not to get my greasy mits in front of the Zoom webcam tomorrow.
I am crossing my fingers that the passenger side wheel squeak in heat will now disappear. Seems like the pedal pulsates less, so maybe the rotor isn’t as bad as I feared.
The left pads are the drivers side, with no pad left. The passenger side had meat left and that was the stubborn caliper and squeaky when heated wheel.
ill try to not to get my greasy mits in front of the Zoom webcam tomorrow.
Stuck/frozen piston could yeah, but I'd be looking for a pinched brake line.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I was cleaning out a file cabinet and came across my sticker file and it was HUGE. So I thinned it out a bit. Also added corner bumpers to protect doors.
Got everything put back together with everyones help (thank you!) along with new calipers and brake pads. Now for the next troubleshoot.
I'm getting a vibration that sounds like a rapid 4 beat drum. Whir whir whir whir quiet...whir whir whir whir....quiet. It is most noticeable around 30-40, seems to go away when I hit the brakes a bit. I thought I packed the bearings right, lobbed in grease 3/4 way full after I put the axel in, filled all the voids in the hub and torqued following fsm. Any ideas? I'm hoping it's an issue with the new brakes as that would be easiest (and they are feeling squishy) but worried I did something with the bearing.
Went ahead and dove back in, retorqued the outer bearing and I think that may have been the problem. My torque wrench isn't great and you can barely feel the pop on low settings, I probably blew past 4 ft/lb last time. Threw some more grease into everything to be safe and sealed it back up. No noise or wiggle from what I can tell.
I'm getting a vibration that sounds like a rapid 4 beat drum. Whir whir whir whir quiet...whir whir whir whir....quiet. It is most noticeable around 30-40, seems to go away when I hit the brakes a bit. I thought I packed the bearings right, lobbed in grease 3/4 way full after I put the axel in, filled all the voids in the hub and torqued following fsm. Any ideas? I'm hoping it's an issue with the new brakes as that would be easiest (and they are feeling squishy) but worried I did something with the bearing.
Went ahead and dove back in, retorqued the outer bearing and I think that may have been the problem. My torque wrench isn't great and you can barely feel the pop on low settings, I probably blew past 4 ft/lb last time. Threw some more grease into everything to be safe and sealed it back up. No noise or wiggle from what I can tell.
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Fort Knox
SILVER Star
Fixed my smoker. Nothing too taxing. Just $25 for a new heating element. Nine screws, two nuts and a couple of charred terminal ends replaced and it's as good as new!
Not wrenching, but I'm happy with it, so you get to look at it too
Before:
After:
Nearly two months of work in these pics not including a break to put the new air compressor in service.
Before:
After:
Nearly two months of work in these pics not including a break to put the new air compressor in service.
Looks awesome! Makes we wanna save another 60.Not wrenching, but I'm happy with it, so you get to look at it too
Before:
View attachment 2319974
After:
View attachment 2319975
Nearly two months of work in these pics not including a break to put the new air compressor in service.
Let me know how the fronts go if you do them - still have the fronts to do, but not grinding like the rear - all of my caliper pins were sticking prior on the rears and fronts, even though when I got the 100 it had all new pads/rotors all around. Cleaned and lubed the pins made a huge difference (at least for me).
@pawwright I'm waiting on some parts to do the rears. There were no squeal warning clips on the either pad on the PS rear. The upper pin is stuck and the lower came out after lots of persuasion. I'm doing rotors, pins, etc on both rear sides, then I'll look at the front.
Question for the masses: Because of the above problem, should I be concerned about bearings/grease on that corner? The only things I know is that there was no grinding noise when Sarah left last week but it started at some point on her 400 round trip, the pad is gone, and the inside face of the rotor feels like corduroy. Pic below is outer & inner pads from that corner.
Question for the masses: Because of the above problem, should I be concerned about bearings/grease on that corner? The only things I know is that there was no grinding noise when Sarah left last week but it started at some point on her 400 round trip, the pad is gone, and the inside face of the rotor feels like corduroy. Pic below is outer & inner pads from that corner.
Working on my 2001 Tundra Access Cab. Blinking 4wd light on dash when I press the 4wd button. Thought I would just clean up the contacts on the actuator on the transfer case housing assembly. The large plastic gear plopped out when I took the black plastic housing of. Any ideas on how to properly align the large Plastic gear inside the transfer case assembly?
Definitely time to check bearings.
Just a guess, but it looks like it only goes in one way. The spring retainer fits into the recess in the housing.
Final color going to be stock or painting the whole truck something else?? Looks PHENOMENAL!!Not wrenching, but I'm happy with it, so you get to look at it too
Before:
View attachment 2319974
After:
View attachment 2319975
Nearly two months of work in these pics not including a break to put the new air compressor in service.
Thanks! Primer is showing me where I need more hammer and dolly work, but she'll get there.
Color will be stock 033 white.
I would not be too concerned about bearings.
If those are OEM pads I recall there is no wear tab for the rear. As for the wear it sounds like you got it covered. Heavy wear on only one pad largely points to slider pins. As I've preached before, make sure they are smooth and use only synthetic caliper grease.
@GLTHFJ60 the stock white is going to look incredible. You sure are putting those new hammers to good use. Sorry about all the bondo.
slide pin in the transfer case of my Tundra needs to be all the way forward to make the transfer case operational. Your guess was correct on orientation. Also, after the transmission was replaced, the guy with over forty years of experience must have had a senior moment because the front axle actuator was unplugged. Good help IS getting harder to find.
slide pin in the transfer case of my Tundra needs to be all the way forward to make the transfer case operational. Your guess was correct on orientation. Also, after the transmission was replaced, the guy with over forty years of experience must have had a senior moment because the front axle actuator was unplugged. Good help IS getting harder to find.
