TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (6 Viewers)

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Yesterday morning I went out to the driveway to go to school and noticed a small puddle under the 80, but figured it was oil from the oil pump so I didn't think much about it. At the end of the school day, I looked under and noticed another puddle so I got under and saw it was coming from my front diff. Drove home and left it in the driveway cause it was leaking pretty bad. Drove a different car today and came home again to a large puddle sitting under the diff after only 20 or so hours (pic will be attached).

@roadstr6 said on the CRR thread to wiggle around the driveshaft to see if there's any movement to check if it's the bearing or just the pinion seal. I did this and it would twist about 1/4" to each side but had no side to side or up and down movement. Anyone know anything else that could be the cause of this? I'm pretty confused because I didn't notice any noise or vibrations leading up to this, and the whole front axle was rebuilt by Trollholes a couple years ago, along with an e locker being put in, so I would imagine that would incldude bearings and the seal, but I'm not totally sure.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. This is definitely something I would love to do myself. My 80 has been pretty reliable and I'm just now learning a little bit about fixing up cars so I would love to work on it when something is wrong. Pictures will be attached below, along with a video of the driveshaft if it works

- this is the video

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You need to follow the leak up to figure out where it is coming from. It looks like a little stream coming down the back of the snout. Where does the oil stream originate?
 
You need to follow the leak up to figure out where it is coming from. It looks like a little stream coming down the back of the snout. Where does the oil stream originate?

It seems like it's all seeping through the bottom of where the 3rd and the housing meet. The nuts on the bottom half were pretty loose so I tightened them up and put an oil drain pan underneath. I'm going to check in the morning to see if it's slowed down, but it looked like it was still leaking. Once I get a little bit of time I'm going to clean everything off and refill the diff to see exactly where it's coming from
 
Is there a pper gasket b/w the pumpkin and the housing? A lot of folks have had better luck ditching the gasket and using fipg there. Snug up the nuts and let it cure over night then torque to spec the next day.
 
Is there a pper gasket b/w the pumpkin and the housing? A lot of folks have had better luck ditching the gasket and using fipg there. Snug up the nuts and let it cure over night then torque to spec the next day.

There is one but I’m not sure if it’s really doing it’s job. I’m not sure if I’m up for the job of taking the whole axle apart to change the gasket, might have to give it to a shop to do that if needed
 
Checked on it this morning and there was nothing in the pan, so either I got really lucky or I ran out of fluid. I'm gonna add some tonight and check on it again tomorrow. Hopefully I got lucky
 
Checked on it this morning and there was nothing in the pan, so either I got really lucky or I ran out of fluid. I'm gonna add some tonight and check on it again tomorrow. Hopefully I got lucky
Just to verify, make sure all the nuts around the 3rd member are snug (not crazy tight). Add diff fluid and clean the bottom of the house thoroughly. Take it for a ride or two. When you get home, wipe the bottom of the housing with a clean paper towel to check for leaks.
 
3FE guys. What causes one to run rich. Changing wires and plugs now.

Wrapped up the brakes today’s. Test drive revealed a faulty alternator. Picking up one in the morning but in the mean time I’d like to figure out why it’s “rolling coal”. It’s idling around 1k and blowing black smoke under acceleration. No smoke during idle. The truck has sat for over a decade from my understanding. Does it just need to be driven?

I did desmogging it but it’s idling the same as before.

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Black smoke isn't necessarily "rich".

Fuel pressure regulator adjustment is something to consider. Dirty injectors possibly, etc. I'd run a bunch of seafoam through it then give it an italian tune up.
 
3FE guys. What causes one to run rich. Changing wires and plugs now.

Wrapped up the brakes today’s. Test drive revealed a faulty alternator. Picking up one in the morning but in the mean time I’d like to figure out why it’s “rolling coal”. It’s idling around 1k and blowing black smoke under acceleration. No smoke during idle. The truck has sat for over a decade from my understanding. Does it just need to be driven?

I did desmogging it but it’s idling the same as before.

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Check the free things first
Check for any stored codes, even if the CEL isnt currently on.
Check the TPS, specs should be in FSM
02 sensors.can be starting to go.... you can "clean" them by burning off carbon with a torch but they atent expensive if they need to be replaced.
Check vacuum lines
Check your fuel pressure at the rail.

Then start spending money if nothing there is a red flag.

Johnny's suggest is great to run seafoam through it.

3fe there are numerous things that could cause a rich condition.
What's the maintenance history in it?
 
I went through and tested the AFM it passed per FSM.

Black smoke isn't necessarily "rich".

Fuel pressure regulator adjustment is something to consider. Dirty injectors possibly, etc. I'd run a bunch of seafoam through it then give it an italian tune up.
Regulator adjustment- that’s a good thought.
I’ll try the Seafoam also. Are you referring to the intake or fuel?

Check the free things first
Check for any stored codes, even if the CEL isnt currently on.
Check the TPS, specs should be in FSM
02 sensors.can be starting to go.... you can "clean" them by burning off carbon with a torch but they atent expensive if they need to be replaced.
Check vacuum lines
Check your fuel pressure at the rail.

Then start spending money if nothing there is a red flag.

Johnny's suggest is great to run seafoam through it.

3fe there are numerous things that could cause a rich condition.
What's the maintenance history in it?

No stored codes.
Fuel Pressure is next on my list, then TPS, and confirm injectors working properly.

Maintenance history....:rofl:


definitely leaning towards a fuel issue. It’s running at idle like a cylinder is misfiring. Unplugged each spark plug wire and confirmed each has spark. Started the engine each time with a wire unplugged and the idle didn’t really change.
 
How do you put seafoam in the intake without using fuel?

Dump a can in the gas tank and drive the s*** out of it for a while.
 
How do you put seafoam in the intake without using fuel?

Dump a can in the gas tank and drive the s*** out of it for a while.
Just curious you your preferred way of using it. I feel like some thing else is going on...wouldn't Seafoam help with restriction of fuel. For any newbs reading this, You can put it in the fuel but also put it in the intake while the engine is warm at idle. This seems to be the more common way I've heard of people using it. Theory being that putting it in a more concentrated state in a warm engine it will help breakup the carbon build up quicker and help it pass upon the next crank.
 
I've never done that, and I wouldn't recommend a noob try it. You put it in the intake while the engine is running or off?

This is a port injection engine, meaning when you put seafoam in the fuel, it'll help clean the fuel system, injectors, valves, and valve seats. That's the real benefit.
 
Fleet maintenance day. Oil change and fluid checks on the ONSC ES330 hand me down. Wetsanded and attacked the headlights with a 3m kit. Headlights looked to have been cleared at some point. They look a whole lot better. Inside was vacuumed, cleaned, and Lexol'ed. Car is slated for a turn n burn to DC this week. Already at 201700 on the odometer. @jtmosca any idea what the mileage was when we bought it from you? Lol

Next up, fluid checks on the ole 450. Its losing a little coolant from somewhere, but still chugs along.

Used the last of the 3m compound on the headlights on the gx470. Not perfect, but had been on the todo list for a while.

Bathtime for the entire fleet. Es330, 450, the 470, the white 80 and the teardrop. I'm sure the neighbors loved hearing a cordless drill and pressure washer running all day. Lol

Everything needs a clay bar and polish, but that's not gonna be today.

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Everything is looking good including that sweet ES 330! I believe it was in the 180s when I bought and sold it.
 
I've never done that, and I wouldn't recommend a noob try it. You put it in the intake while the engine is running or off?

This is a port injection engine, meaning when you put seafoam in the fuel, it'll help clean the fuel system, injectors, valves, and valve seats. That's the real benefit.
Its one of the ways Seafoam recommend using it. Running so it is pulled into the intake while the engine is warm. You do have to be careful, i know of example where plugs were fouled bc it was applied to fast.

 
That explains it. I was unaware there was a spray, only the can of liquid seafoam can you can put in your fuel or oil.

EDIT: Use the fluid in the gas. That's what I intended to recommend.
 
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After wheeling the first gen for the first time I figured it was time for an upgrade to get the truck to the next level.
Got a few plans in the works.
this little upgrade is the start.

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@SFROMAN - nice!

@NC LX and @GLTHFJ60 - re: Seafoam - - If you want to go above the injectors through the fuel, you pull your vacuum line that goes into the master brake cylinder. fill up your seafoam cap. you suck the liquid in the cap slowly. don't do what the noobs say and suck the whole can - - just do a couple caps over time making sure you engine recovers after each cap.
 
Just curious you your preferred way of using it. I feel like some thing else is going on...wouldn't Seafoam help with restriction of fuel. For any newbs reading this, You can put it in the fuel but also put it in the intake while the engine is warm at idle. This seems to be the more common way I've heard of people using it. Theory being that putting it in a more concentrated state in a warm engine it will help breakup the carbon build up quicker and help it pass upon the next crank.


Basically the way a lot of people use seafoam is a whole can in the gas tank.

Half a can in the crank case (you will want to change the oil out after about 500 miles)

Half a can drawn into the engine through the brake booster vacuum line.

The last one is the method where you will see the videos of the car "smoking" for a while.

Did this for my 3fe and it ran a ton better after. There was a night and day difference between my 3fe and Logan's when we drove each others trucks back from work to my house one day.
 

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