TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (6 Viewers)

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Sheet just got real, really quickly - I Peeked behind the bondo curtain! Yikes - bondo removal and missing quarter panel


Decided to learn the hard truth by peeling away the bondo on the quarters to determine what kinda patchwork I'm up against. Well it turns out that I had about 1/3 inch layer in sections... And not much metal underneath. Looks like I'll be busy.

Here's some photos... And I've uploaded a few videos on youtube... Hoping to fill a void on youtube for diy fj40 vids.

My theory is to get the quarter panel somewhat decent and then remove the hardtop, rollbar and replace the wheel well that @fj40alex hooked me up with. I want to keep the top on for now to act as a brace to keep things straight.

Some videos
Bondo removal with heat gun,,,, literally a third of an inch thick in parts.


Surgery after bondo removal... Not much panel behind he fiberglass


Quarter panel tacked
Fj40 diy quarter panel tacked in place (video 8)

I'm in for quite a ride but feeling strangely calm and confident




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Full Disclosure, I just posted this on the 80 Tech section, so I'm expecting some "Hey, idiot, didn't you see this yada yada thread???". Was hoping someone with AC experience could chime in with their thoughts? (cough cough... @Roxx cough cough...)

2 years ago, I had my entire AC system replaced. I just wheeled the truck at GSMTR (pardon the mud, please) but it never got hung up on any obstacles, so I don't think anything was damaged... Still, I understand compressors are known to go bad. The compressor clutch sounds pretty bad when it engages and it is engaging/disengaging pretty rapidly (it doesn't normally operate like this).

This is what it sounds/looks like:



I had read other threads where the rapid clutch engagement was due to low coolant... I believed that might be my issue, but here is what the pressure gauge was reading when I attempted to fill the system:



Any ideas?
 
Full Disclosure, I just posted this on the 80 Tech section, so I'm expecting some "Hey, idiot, didn't you see this yada yada thread???". Was hoping someone with AC experience could chime in with their thoughts? (cough cough... @Roxx cough cough...)

2 years ago, I had my entire AC system replaced. I just wheeled the truck at GSMTR (pardon the mud, please) but it never got hung up on any obstacles, so I don't think anything was damaged... Still, I understand compressors are known to go bad. The compressor clutch sounds pretty bad when it engages and it is engaging/disengaging pretty rapidly (it doesn't normally operate like this).

This is what it sounds/looks like:



I had read other threads where the rapid clutch engagement was due to low coolant... I believed that might be my issue, but here is what the pressure gauge was reading when I attempted to fill the system:



Any ideas?

The engaging and dis-engaging seam to be happening because low pressure check the sight glass on the driver side of the truck inside the engine bay. If you can see a air bubble in it every time it engages you are low other wise your pressure switch may be defective. You can jump the low pressure switch and run it for a bit longer and see how low it gets. I am guessing you did not hit the filter dryer here. Good luck. I really have very limited knowledge on auto a/c i hope this helps.
 
Lots of changes in the Gen IV harness, how am I gonna hide this mess In plain site :)
Trans harness not shown

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Continued to stitch together my steel quilt that some call a quarter panel. Also welded up and ground my lower quarter panel patch that covers the rear sill horn. No pic but it's in video 12 I think. Videos 9 and 10 show the root cause of the rust... The extent of it, and the hack job bondo and steel "repair"

Uploaded some vids






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Back from Carolina Driveline. They always spray some back paint over whatever is there, including rust, YUCK!... Ready for prep and paint.

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I've heard a lot of good things about Carolina Driveline, but almost always use Oliver's Driveshafts because they're closer to me. Have you always had good luck with Carolina Driveline?
 
They always tell you a week and it ends up being 2.5-3, I expect that going in at this point. Other than that have had no issues. This place is always busy busy, everything from custom ATV stuff and off road rigs up too big rigs and heavy equipment. The owner has been around the block a time or two, knows his stuff.

They are about a half hour away in Spartanburg
 
Again ... Hopefully getting ready to move past this issue on the next waive
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I HATE TRANSVERSE MOUNTED V6 MOTORS!!!!!

Just replaced 3 firewall side coil packs and spark plugs on Heather's new to her 06 TOYOTA Avalon. Intake plenum had to be removed to even get to them. Bolts in places only a 10 year old Japanese girl's hands will fit. Rant over
 
Saturday was eventful :D Had to collect parts for Allen!!
HAMOM: Who wants to help me take my top off?

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HUGE thank you to @SeanLX for coming up to let me use his truck as a reference!! Got all the vacuum and sensors hooked up where they need to go, except for the two broken sensors we found.

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Jerry is going to repurpose the rear heater connections for a shower so we put in this shutoff valve in hopes that he can somewhat control the temperature:

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God bless you Johnny, I hate all those vacuum lines even when I have removed them myself, figuring out after the fact is mind numbing without at least photos. Similar truck next to it is the way to go for sure. I like the shower idea.
 
They weren't that bad once I had the reference truck :D Figuring all that out without @SeanLX would have been a bear for sure. Still, a FZJ80 is no where near as bad with the vacuum lines as a stock US spec FJ60 :rolleyes:
 
I soooooooo love modern fuel injection. :) Except when it's mounted transverse. I have little cuts all over my hands from all the little sharp edges encountered working on Heather's car this past weekend. That aside, that car has some get up and go.
 

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