TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Patrick, be very leary of that amazon link. They use the same part number as the TRAD (Toyota radiator), but do not indicate its a Toyota OEM part, or that it is made by an OEM supplier (TRAD is the manufactuer for the OE radiators), Denso is an OE supplier, just not for land cruiser radiators (they make one, but its not OE)
 
Wonder what the differences are between the 16400-66040 (93-94), and the 16400-66081 for 95-97? The second one is 342.00
 
Patrick, be very leary of that amazon link. They use the same part number as the TRAD (Toyota radiator), but do not indicate its a Toyota OEM part, or that it is made by an OEM supplier (TRAD is the manufactuer for the OE radiators), Denso is an OE supplier, just not for land cruiser radiators (they make one, but its not OE)

Thanks,
I ended up going with a dealership out of Houston. It ended up being $318 shipped, called Scott Clark and with the discount the best they could do was $415. I figured I wasn't going to find much better than $318 to my door.
 
Not a bad price and a good choice to go oem. Thats the same spot mine failed in the past.

Replacement should take ~3 hrs or so with butping and all. Biggest pain is getting headlights out to access the two top bolts but not bad.
 
Wonder what the differences are between the 16400-66040 (93-94), and the 16400-66081 for 95-97? The second one is 342.00
Wonder what the differences are between the 16400-66040 (93-94), and the 16400-66081 for 95-97? The second one is 342.00

Pretty sure the 66040 is the copper/brass one, and the 66081 is the aluminum one.
 
No LANDCRUISER wrenching but I've been delving into coding the Audi with VCDS VAG COM software. Man, I miss just wrenching. All this binary code makes my head hurt.
Hopefully this will prepare me for messing with Techstream for the LX470.
 
I'm getting ready to do a radiator flush next week. Do you guys know if it's okay to temporarily take out the thermostat for better flow while flushing? Or is that a "no no" for the 1FZ?

Also, any tips for flushing this beast are welcome.
 
Wrenching early in the rover. Using the fluid interface extractor for the oil, this is an environmental improvement over Toyota. Think about it, if rover used the old gravity method, I would be using more gravity and helping exhaust natural resources like gravity for my grandchildren. So, smart rover decided to "go green" and conserve gravity by using the mightyvac. Just brilliant.

IMG_7445.JPG


IMG_7448.JPG
 
Vaccum is reversed to then evacuate the container, so it is renewed that easily. Gravity is gone once you use it. Ask Rice, he knows these things.
 
Went to put on new synthetic line on my Warntoday but winch just clicks. I have another set of solenoids i plan on swapping out but did notice the drum was very hard to turn in free spool could the issue be the motor or drum? Im not very savvy electrically but getting better any recommendations to help diag?
 
Went to put on new synthetic line on my Warntoday but winch just clicks. I have another set of solenoids i plan on swapping out but did notice the drum was very hard to turn in free spool could the issue be the motor or drum? Im not very savvy electrically but getting better any recommendations to help diag?
Is the Warn designed for synthetic rope? Some are not, for example the brake being inside the drum will overheat the rope, make it brittle.
 
Is the Warn designed for synthetic rope? Some are not, for example the brake being inside the drum will overheat the rope, make it brittle.

Never knew that. Just thought it was the fair leads for either wire (roller) or rope (hawse). Learn something new everyday!
 
Is the Warn designed for synthetic rope? Some are not, for example the brake being inside the drum will overheat the rope, make it brittle.

Never heard that before either its an old M8000 i bought in Africa. I havent run it in a super long time. I might just give warn a call and see what they say.
 
Most designed for synthetic used a brake that's not in the drum. The synthetic line will act as a heat blanket, trapping heat and, overtime, weakening the line. Steel rope dissipates heat so no issues with it. Synthetic line is awesome though and safe, can't beat that.

Doesn't mean you can't use it, just means you need to be aware of the potential drawbacks and maybe change the synthetic line more often if used. Warn makes line for their winches with an added heat resistant layer Warn Industries - Winch Rope for Jeep, Truck & SUV Winches: Synthetic Rope. You can probably contact them and they can tell you which line they recommend for your model

This explains it better; Gear Review: Superwinch Tiger Shark 9500 SR
 
Never heard that before either its an old M8000 i bought in Africa. I havent run it in a super long time. I might just give warn a call and see what they say.
Also if that drum ever had a pull on it, be sure the drum is free from burrs/scrapes/sharp-edged-badness/etc from the steel cable. They can be a hidden spot that can initiate a failure in your rope.
 
I appreciate everyones feed back on the synthetic line i am versed in synthetic and understand the science behind it and the pros and cons. Back to my original question i replaced all 4 solenoids and still no luck on the winch itself it sparked at the motor when i tried to pull in and out so i stopped there looks like i will go ahead and pull it and replace the control box and rebuild the winch itself unless anybody has any other recommendations?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom