Extrude hone? Mo powa!
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TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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One giant pain in the ass out of the way. Been having great luck with cars recently. The VW died again. Done with it.
Idler went out on focus when Andrea was driving and she may have cooked the head gasket.
Motor on acura was completely buggered.
Got some time over the weekend, a used motor, a ton of parts and rented a bay for two days to put new motor in. Used motor had 100k on it. Replaced timing belt, water pump, all belts and tensioner. Rear main seal, front crank seal, oil pan seal, pulled oil pump and replaced its seal and seal on oil filter mounts. Replaced radiator, spark plugs all coils, pcv valve egr valve, rear motor mounts trans mounts radiator hoses, etc....
This an thing better last forever now. All oem parts or denso parts were used.
Worked on car during day, work work at night. Ran out of time on Sunday and had a mobil mechanic on call there finish up install g the subframe with engine and trans attached.
Now to get rid of jetta after pulling motor and trans, replace tensioner and belt on foxus to see if HG is ok and sell car. Acura is now andreas DD and subaru is mine (but I think head is lifting a bit under boost soo more fun there......) still have the benz until I pull the motor for build.
Idler went out on focus when Andrea was driving and she may have cooked the head gasket.
Motor on acura was completely buggered.
Got some time over the weekend, a used motor, a ton of parts and rented a bay for two days to put new motor in. Used motor had 100k on it. Replaced timing belt, water pump, all belts and tensioner. Rear main seal, front crank seal, oil pan seal, pulled oil pump and replaced its seal and seal on oil filter mounts. Replaced radiator, spark plugs all coils, pcv valve egr valve, rear motor mounts trans mounts radiator hoses, etc....
This an thing better last forever now. All oem parts or denso parts were used.
Worked on car during day, work work at night. Ran out of time on Sunday and had a mobil mechanic on call there finish up install g the subframe with engine and trans attached.
Now to get rid of jetta after pulling motor and trans, replace tensioner and belt on foxus to see if HG is ok and sell car. Acura is now andreas DD and subaru is mine (but I think head is lifting a bit under boost soo more fun there......) still have the benz until I pull the motor for build.
Been turning wrenches to achieve this. Starting to get the performance I'm after.
Gauges left to right:
manifold pyro
manifold boost
fuel press post-filter
low pressure turbo boost level
Gauges left to right:
manifold pyro
manifold boost
fuel press post-filter
low pressure turbo boost level
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
...and I thought I had too many projects going at once!
yours may be more fun than mine though.... these are just DD cars that have started to drop one by one and with my current work schedule I haven't been able to do anything about it.
The subbie will go to a subbie guy to take care of I just don't have the time.
My fun projects, the bronco and the cruiser... continue to stare at me from the darkness..... or in the case of the cruiser from across the country
fj40alex
SILVER Star
After 5 years of collecting dust, work has started on the Faux40. Brake rotors put up a good fight, only to reveal crusty brake cylinders and MIA brake pads. Learning why some folks throw 40 axles under these and call it a day.
Land Cruiser FJ40 Frame & Axles - auto parts - by owner - vehicle...
For sale is a frame/chassis for a 1975 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Frame is in very good condition and is 100% rust free. Included with the frame is both axles and the wheels and tires. Also comes...
charlotte.craigslist.org
lumbee1
Native American
I used simple green HD, purple muscle, and two types of carb cleaner with a variety of round brass brushes to clean my upper and lower intake when it was off the truck. The simple green HD cleaned as well as ice cold water on grease. The purple muscle did better but there were too many horror stories of letting it sit on aluminum too long and it's just not very effective as a splash and wipe. Carb cleaner was the best but was taking forever and I burned through 4 cans and a lot of oily carbon was still left behind.
I made another trip to the Walmarts and picked up the last can of CRC Pro-Strength degreaser. It's slightly foamy but on contact it started melting away the most stuck on residue. I used one can to reclean the upper and lower intake. I still needed to use the brass brushes but the difference in cleaning power was night and day. I've gone back to the Walmarts since then and can't find the stuff. I plan on ordering a case off Amazon (or wherever is cheapest) so I can clean my trans and transfer case.
What are our thoughts on caster shims on the 60s?
My truck has an OME lift and I dropped the front axle out last night to start on the rebuild. Would like to put some shims in (if needed) when I reassemble it. I noted on the way back from the barn that it wanders a bit but not terribly.
Do I need to wait and get an alignment to determine how much caster I need to add or should I just throw in some 4* shims and keep on trucking? Placing an order today for some other axle parts and would like to throw in shims I need them.
My truck has an OME lift and I dropped the front axle out last night to start on the rebuild. Would like to put some shims in (if needed) when I reassemble it. I noted on the way back from the barn that it wanders a bit but not terribly.
Do I need to wait and get an alignment to determine how much caster I need to add or should I just throw in some 4* shims and keep on trucking? Placing an order today for some other axle parts and would like to throw in shims I need them.
Gotta measure what your current caster is before you go adding shims. Your wander could be caused by issues other than a lack of shims.
Park on flat ground and put an angle gauge of any kind on the top of your knuckle studs. They should be almost exactly level with the top of the knuckle. Whatever angle it says is your current caster. Target should be between 4-6* aimed up towards the front.
That or get an alignment sheet, that will also tell you.
Will do. I'll probably just go get it aligned after I get the front done and order some if needed. thanks!
If you end up getting shims, skip the aluminum ones and go with steel. Several vendors sell them. Aluminum will wear down, crack and eventually get spit out.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Belated thank you to the great @suboptimusprime for the OEM head unit for Henry"s LX470. We've been holding off installing it, due to the mess the "professional" installer made of the aftermarket POS JVC. The dingus cut off the OEM harness connectors so he could install his "custom" harness (apparently he never heard of Metra).
Fortunately, the 2000 ES300 uses the same harness connectors. LKQ had one they weren't using, so (although I winced when I did it) I clipped the pigtail long enough to give me enough wire to work with. This weekend we're re-wiring the harness for the period correct, if not a little dated, Mark Levinson Premier Sound System.
Henry's inherited all the choice cassettes in my collection. A true music connoisuer!
Fortunately, the 2000 ES300 uses the same harness connectors. LKQ had one they weren't using, so (although I winced when I did it) I clipped the pigtail long enough to give me enough wire to work with. This weekend we're re-wiring the harness for the period correct, if not a little dated, Mark Levinson Premier Sound System.
Henry's inherited all the choice cassettes in my collection. A true music connoisuer!
Started on the front axle of the 60 to get it ready for RR. Didn't have too much time so I got one side stripped down. I think it's safe to say the seal had failed as the bearings were completely washed out...
The knuckle was full of soup.
As you can see my garage is short on space when it has a 60 and bikes in it. Luckily there was just enough to get the axle out with space to work around it. Tomorrow I'll tear down the passenger side and probably get started on wire wheeling the axle and prepping for paint.
The knuckle was full of soup.
As you can see my garage is short on space when it has a 60 and bikes in it. Luckily there was just enough to get the axle out with space to work around it. Tomorrow I'll tear down the passenger side and probably get started on wire wheeling the axle and prepping for paint.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
VHT Flameproof update:
The preliminary results are in. Here are a few bits and pieces, cleaned, bead blasted and coated (as per VHT's instructions):
Here is the oven cured result:
Both water necks look like crap on the underside (you see them as I baked them). At 400°, the clearcoat ran and varnished badly. It doesn't look as fried as the EGR pipe, but it's unacceptable.
As a test, and because I really don't care about it, I cooked the EGR pipe first.
First, a few process notes:
1) I used my kitchen oven and propane barbeque. The oven temp gauge is wrong (what a surprise!); 200° is actually about 180° and 400° is actually about 380°. My barbeque will reach, but not exceed 550°. Those are the curing temps I used, along with the required 30 on, 30 off, as per the instructions.
2) The first and second cures (albeit at lower temperatures than prescribed) looked very good, no discoloration, drips or runs.
3) The remaining parts, I cooked at a measured 200° and 400°, but not a final 600°-ish.
My analysis: the only way to keep the clearcoat from melting and varnishing is to keep the curing temp below 400°.
Lest anyone doubt my ability to follow instructions, I spent many years as a process engineer (not to mention a dozen in uniform), writing them and browbeating farmhands into following them. I assure you I can follow directions. There is no way to get this product to perform as claimed.
I am not going to cook the intakes; they look too good. I'll take my chances with the engine bay temps. I'll cure the exhaust headers on the truck. I'm really not looking forward to my crisp white paint job turning the color of a 3-pack-a-day smoker's fingers.
I'm looking forward to Cerakote.
The preliminary results are in. Here are a few bits and pieces, cleaned, bead blasted and coated (as per VHT's instructions):
Here is the oven cured result:
Both water necks look like crap on the underside (you see them as I baked them). At 400°, the clearcoat ran and varnished badly. It doesn't look as fried as the EGR pipe, but it's unacceptable.
As a test, and because I really don't care about it, I cooked the EGR pipe first.
First, a few process notes:
1) I used my kitchen oven and propane barbeque. The oven temp gauge is wrong (what a surprise!); 200° is actually about 180° and 400° is actually about 380°. My barbeque will reach, but not exceed 550°. Those are the curing temps I used, along with the required 30 on, 30 off, as per the instructions.
2) The first and second cures (albeit at lower temperatures than prescribed) looked very good, no discoloration, drips or runs.
3) The remaining parts, I cooked at a measured 200° and 400°, but not a final 600°-ish.
My analysis: the only way to keep the clearcoat from melting and varnishing is to keep the curing temp below 400°.
Lest anyone doubt my ability to follow instructions, I spent many years as a process engineer (not to mention a dozen in uniform), writing them and browbeating farmhands into following them. I assure you I can follow directions. There is no way to get this product to perform as claimed.
I am not going to cook the intakes; they look too good. I'll take my chances with the engine bay temps. I'll cure the exhaust headers on the truck. I'm really not looking forward to my crisp white paint job turning the color of a 3-pack-a-day smoker's fingers.
I'm looking forward to Cerakote.
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I use an $80 Harbor Freight powder coating setup for all my brackets and small parts that will fit in a toaster oven. One of these days, I’ll get myself an old kitchen oven from the Habitat store so that I can do larger parts. If you have ever thought about picking up the HF setup, I’ll vouch for it. It works great. I don’t use their crappy powder though. I get powder from Prismatic Coatings.
Yeah, I've not had good luck with VHT. Cerakote is much better.
I've heat cycled my exhaust parts a dozen or more times now to 1200* (internal gas temp), and all the coatings look like new still. VHT would have been discolored by now.
I've heat cycled my exhaust parts a dozen or more times now to 1200* (internal gas temp), and all the coatings look like new still. VHT would have been discolored by now.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Custom intake found on the web. A good builder would have painted it black!
bespokeCustom intake found on the web. A good builder would have painted it black!
YUUUUGGGE project today.
Changed out the vacuum filters on the diesel benz.
Changed out the vacuum filters on the diesel benz.
