TWT -- The Wrenching Thread

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I like your method of removing the transmission output housing instead of disassembling/assembling the case under the truck. Good call!!

I always hated how the transfer cases up until the FJ80 all had to be disassembled in order to remove.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I like your method of removing the transmission output housing instead of disassembling/assembling the case under the truck. Good call!!

I always hated how the transfer cases up until the FJ80 all had to be disassembled in order to remove.
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The "good call" was plan "B". I really was all gung-ho about just pulling out the T-case but she was having none of that. Came apart just fine but that tail shaft is long. In the end I can see it being the right move just because the install with the spud shaft is so easy, but :censor: I hated losing 4 quarts of oil that, even if I drained it into a clean container, I would not have reused.
 
Rice said:
The "good call" was plan "B". I really was all gung-ho about just pulling out the T-case but she was having none of that. Came apart just fine but that tail shaft is long. In the end I can see it being the right move just because the install with the spud shaft is so easy, but :censor: I hated losing 4 quarts of oil that, even if I drained it into a clean container, I would not have reused.
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It can't hurt to change the transmission fluid every couple of years, right?

IMO it's worth the sacrifice in oil to be able to work on a bench instead of under the truck.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
It can't hurt to change the transmission fluid every couple of years, right?

IMO it's worth the sacrifice in oil to be able to work on a bench instead of under the truck.
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Agree. So treated the 40 to a 6-pack today.

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Anyone need help wrenching this weekend. The wife is out of town and I want to learn. I've changed the disc brakes on my Mini (rotors + pads) before. That's about the extent of my mechanical knowledge.

Or does anyone want to go wheel? Complete noob on that too.
 
tgadd said:
Anyone need help wrenching this weekend. The wife is out of town and I want to learn. I've changed the disc brakes on my Mini (rotors + pads) before. That's about the extent of my mechanical knowledge.

Or does anyone want to go wheel? Complete noob on that too.
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I'm not wrenching, but I bet I can find some time to drool over your rig. I can send you the address of my shop (not far) if you'd like a covered place to further inspect it.
 
tgadd said:
Anyone need help wrenching this weekend. The wife is out of town and I want to learn. I've changed the disc brakes on my Mini (rotors + pads) before. That's about the extent of my mechanical knowledge.

Or does anyone want to go wheel? Complete noob on that too.
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If be down to wheel a bit at URE..
 
OGBeno said:
Good work Rice and Jason. Solid.


So is the 40 going to Logan's or will you bring the 80 again?

Maybe both?

:)
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Hmmm. I guess I could bring down the 40 and the ladies could bring the 80. ;)
 
tgadd said:
Anyone need help wrenching this weekend. The wife is out of town and I want to learn. I've changed the disc brakes on my Mini (rotors + pads) before. That's about the extent of my mechanical knowledge.
Click to expand...

Oh man! Just finished and came in, saw the post. Anyway, this weekend was wife station wagon time, 4 rotors and pads yesterday, and differential fluids and transfer case fluid today. Land Rover transfer case was $50 for 2 liters with y AARP discount, damn! Redline for the rest since I had a case of it. These rovers don't use the fill hole as determinant, so had to engineer a measure/dispense strategy for the diffs. Next week will be tires and the wagon will be ready for the Fall. Has 57k miles.

Nice EBC pads all around and AC Delco disks

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Differential fluid is captured and measured, same amount back in, no "fill until it comes out of fill hole" with these. I had this pitcher from same procedure with German double clutch transmissions work.

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Using a small graduated container helped a lot, the a transfer pump to reach diff fill holes, easy as pie. So nice to work on a non rusty, clean, policed, well kept vehicle... Anyway, front diff gets 0.64 liters, rear 1.1 liters. No, no joke, overfill and die, under fill and die. And the transfer case oil is special, made from the horn of virgin unicorns, shot by American dentists. That's why is so expensive.

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Gotta love British cars. I pulled the pan on my TR6 once to freshen up a leaky pan gasket. I was surprised to find that there were wooden wedges driven in on both sides of the rear main cap. I thought this had to be a ghetto PO leak fix but a quick check of my service manual confirmed that, indeed, the wood was an OEM part! You were supposed to drive the wedges in and cut the ends off flush and then install the pan gasket. Geez, no wonder those things leak like sieves! I'm sure the wood was some sort of rare British Ash like the stuff they make Morgans out of.
 
Recently picked up a 1990 Trooper V6 5 speed. Only has 125K miles, but they appear to be hard miles, at least some of them.

Had to swap transmissions (extra trans came with the truck).....T case and trans are 1 unit, the old t case bearings were shot, so have to replace the entire unit, pretty dumb....
(well could have gotten it fixed, but the PO had tore into it and made a mess)

that's been taking most of my time. Had a 1991 a year or so ago, sold it, a mistake. Pretty big fan of them, so got a project one for a good price (hopefully) I'll get some pics. Lots of wrenching ahead.

-new intake/exhaust gaskets
-new exhaust
-tune up/fluid change
-tackle some surface rust
-go through the brakes/get some tires

Hope to have it done before we get any snow/ice this winter. They do good in that stuff. Decent torque, decent weight balance, and not enough HP to always be spinning the tires.
 
Another of those "hardly worthy" deals that really just serves as a bump for TWT.

BOTH brake and clutch masters started leaking the same week. I caught the brake master early enough it didn't eat out the booster but the clutch master managed to eat some paint both inside and outside the firewall.

According to Beno no OEM option for me so had to go with Beck Arney. Just because it had the right specs (1 inch bore and residual valve for my rear drums) I went with an FJ80 brake master.

Old and leaky:

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Don't forget to bench bleed.
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All done and road tested.
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I really like your bench supervisor ;)
 
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