TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

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Small testimony ... After 2 failed Beck-Arnley clutch masters in as many years it was time to return to Aisin.

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Now that I’ve Been in the new house 2 weeks its time to get to work. The night before I shipped the 62 it blew the HG on the way to @AJR to return some 3FE parts I had borrowed. Side note; if you need any 3FE goodness he’s your local go to.

I had the concrete floors sealed last week so I could wipe up oil coolant etc so Yesterday I finally started disassembly.

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I got my brakes put back together in my truck. The brake bar in the driver side was all sorts of bent up. I found a local guy with a bunch of parts trucks and got a brand new used bar for $5. Bled them and changed gear oil while I was at it but now it won’t start, it won’t even try to turn over, tried jumpstarting but no luck, plan to check the solenoid tomorrow.
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I replaced the battery in my truck and it solved my starting issues. I took the battery to Napa and they tested it, initially tested just low, so they put it on their charger and I came back a couple hours later and it tested as having a bad cell. It was out of free replacement warranty but I got a new one at a prorated $50.

Got the carb tuned and running well, but the truck won’t start anymore. I drove it and parked it and when I went to leave no dice. No solenoid click no anything. Leads me to believe the ignition switch is bad, it roll started fine.
 
a common fixes to put a relay on the starter solinoid and put the wire from the key switch on a relay. This way when you turn the key it doesn't need all the power to hit the starter it just kicks a relay and that gives direct power to the starter
 
a common fixes to put a relay on the starter solinoid and put the wire from the key switch on a relay. This way when you turn the key it doesn't need all the power to hit the starter it just kicks a relay and that gives direct power to the starter
Turns out my issue was a non connected trigger wire on the starter, the spade connector wiggled loose. Love an easy fix! I have to address the alternator now though, the battery reads 12.3V while running so I need to trace the charging system.
 
Worked over the exhaust over the last two weekends. Still have the resonator to add but stoked to get leak free with intact cat and seemingly code free. (Had been getting a PO125)

Many thanks to @GLTHFJ60 , @Rice, @rockdragster for the assistance.

New OEM exhaust manifold studs and nuts
Magnaflow y pipe into
Existing EMS with new flange
New O2’s
Time for resinator and exit bracing.

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I've had fun driving the 55 the last few weeks but one of the old BFG KM's popped a belt which caused a big bubble on the tread of the tire. I ordered a new set of tires for it. The local tire store is having trouble getting the tires I want, so I'm waiting.

With the pig up on jack stands and tireless, I decided to do something about the horrible rear shackle angle. Apparently the Rough Country lift springs that a PO put on the truck are a little too short in the rear. The rear shackles were actually inverted by a couple of degrees, limiting flex and causing it to ride rough. I have had good luck in the past with removing a leaf from the spring pack to soften the ride and tweak the shackle angles, but this time I decided to knock off the shackle hangers and re-position. I think it will make a huge difference on the street and on the trail.

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Shackle angle before:

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...and after:

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I've had fun driving the 55 the last few weeks but one of the old BFG KM's popped a belt which caused a big bubble on the tread of the tire. I ordered a new set of tires for it. The local tire store is having trouble getting the tires I want, so I'm waiting.

With the pig up on jack stands and tireless, I decided to do something about the horrible rear shackle angle. Apparently the Rough Country lift springs that a PO put on the truck are a little too short in the rear. The rear shackles were actually inverted by a couple of degrees, limiting flex and causing it to ride rough. I have had good luck in the past with removing a leaf from the spring pack to soften the ride and tweak the shackle angles, but this time I decided to knock off the shackle hangers and re-position. I think it will make a huge difference on the street and on the trail.

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Shackle angle before:

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...and after:

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I’ve thought about pulling leafs out of the Rough country packs on my 40, which leaf would you recommend? I would move the shackle hanger but I have things in the way.
 
@40LandCruising I would pull the leaf just under the one that has the military wrap. I would assume that it would be the third leaf down from the top.

First leaf has spring eyes on both ends. Second leaf has military wrap on spring hanger side. Third leaf should be a flat leaf. It may have some clamps attached to it and you'll have to decide how to deal with those. Either cut them off or bend them back to allow the leaf to be freed from the pack.
 
@40LandCruising I would pull the leaf just under the one that has the military wrap. I would assume that it would be the third leaf down from the top.

First leaf has spring eyes on both ends. Second leaf has military wrap on spring hanger side. Third leaf should be a flat leaf. It may have some clamps attached to it and you'll have to decide how to deal with those. Either cut them off or bend them back to allow the leaf to be freed from the pack.
To give you an idea of how much this affected the flexibility of the suspension, take a look at the before and after flex pics of the Crockpot.

Before removing a leaf from each pack (all four), this is all the flex I had. The truck three wheeled over obstacles and was scary to drive on even the easiest of trails.
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After removing leafs:

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To give you an idea of how much this affected the flexibility of the suspension, take a look at the before and after flex pics of the Crockpot.

Before removing a leaf from each pack (all four), this is all the flex I had. The truck three wheeled over obstacles and was scary to drive on even the easiest of trails.
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After removing leafs:

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Wow that’s a pretty substantial difference, hopefully that can help out my 40!
 
Now that I’ve Been in the new house 2 weeks its time to get to work. The night before I shipped the 62 it blew the HG on the way to @AJR to return some 3FE parts I had borrowed. Side note; if you need any 3FE goodness he’s your local go to.

I had the concrete floors sealed last week so I could wipe up oil coolant etc so Yesterday I finally started disassembly.

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He has a garage! No more gravel floors.
 
So. Much. Nicer. I dropped a 10mm and found it. Twice!

He has a garage! No more gravel floors.

Pulled the 62 head last night. A local member stopped bye to give a hand pull the head. Even donated a HG.

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Not really wrenching but finally had some time to myself and with my brother visiting here,
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the extra muscle needed the get the bronco back to my place and push it up the driveway into my garage.

More of a prelude to wrenching to come on the injection pump.
 
New bushings in the rear panhard to finally complete the entire bushing set from @Akella. To bad i ordered in 2009, could probably start back on the first ones i swapped back then.

Repaired, repainted and reinstalled slider i removed in February for exhaust work before brake booster stole my funds.

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Replaced the rotors on the Tundra that were warped thanks to the shoddy electric brakes on my neighbor's trailer and put in some new pads while I was at it. Pretty straightforward. Didn't take any pics.
 
Well I think I’ve found the reason my charging system doesn’t work...

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I got lucky my harness didn’t burn up. This alternator has been bad luck. When I first started working on the truck I had to tear apart the entire harness because the main charge wire had shorted and burned up, I got lucky this time with it being this smaller wire and it stopping an inch from the alternator.

Anyone know what that wire is?
 

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