Turn Signal Fix using parts from a 1983 Toyota Pickup (1 Viewer)

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also, sorry for the double post, but I realize this was all done on 60s. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work on a 62?
 
@g-man and @klinetime574 thank y'all for putting this together. I bought the short harness first and then went back for the Ultra Power TW35 switch. Thanks for that. I'm curious @g-man if drilling holes at 9 and 3 o'clock worked... or if you would have stayed with the 3 pin oem 60 cylinder if you could make it loose enough to spin without squeaking!!? I haven't installed the Ultra Power TW35 switch yet.
 
@g-man and @klinetime574 thank y'all for putting this together. I bought the short harness first and then went back for the Ultra Power TW35 switch. Thanks for that. I'm curious @g-man if drilling holes at 9 and 3 o'clock worked... or if you would have stayed with the 3 pin oem 60 cylinder if you could make it loose enough to spin without squeaking!!? I haven't installed the Ultra Power TW35 switch yet.
I just tried this last week. You cant get the 60 cernter thing to work on the tw35. You have to shave too much material
 
@g-man and @klinetime574 thank y'all for putting this together. I bought the short harness first and then went back for the Ultra Power TW35 switch. Thanks for that. I'm curious @g-man if drilling holes at 9 and 3 o'clock worked... or if you would have stayed with the 3 pin oem 60 cylinder if you could make it loose enough to spin without squeaking!!? I haven't installed the Ultra Power TW35 switch yet.
I drilled two holes in the back of the steering wheel and left the 2 pin signal cancel cylinder in place. Originally when I pulled it off which wasn't too easy and tried putting the brown original cylinder on the new switch I realized it was WAY to tight and would need a lot of sanding to fit. Drilling seemed easier. To mark the right spots on the back of the wheel you may try some colored grease on the two pins and centering things up just touch them to the back of the wheel.

Also see post #46 on pg 3. Make sure you swap out or put a decent terminal end on the green wire that goes to the horn pin. Makes no sense to just solder that wire. Mine broke after flexing several times and needed a proper fix.
 
I drilled two holes in the back of the steering wheel and left the 2 pin signal cancel cylinder in place. Originally when I pulled it off which wasn't too easy and tried putting the brown original cylinder on the new switch I realized it was WAY to tight and would need a lot of sanding to fit. Drilling seemed easier. To mark the right spots on the back of the wheel you may try some colored grease on the two pins and centering things up just touch them to the back of the wheel.

Also see post #46 on pg 3. Make sure you swap out or put a decent terminal end on the green wire that goes to the horn pin. Makes no sense to just solder that wire. Mine broke after flexing several times and needed a proper fix.
Thanks @g-man. It's installed! Works great. I will no longer be the annoying oblivious guy with a turn signal on for days. I will miss the intermittent windshield setting but I couldn't find anyone who had solved for that with these switches... oh well. I bought a switch a month ago but it had the short wiring harness. The seller returned my money and didn't want the harness back! Ha. The short harness went in, but kept me from raising the steering wheel enough. Nice to have that solved. I didn't know at the time of that first install, about the 3 vs 2 pin plastic column. This time I used a metal punch and marked the two holes on the steering wheel so the drill bit wouldn't squirm around. Removed all grease. Set up the shop vac to suck up metal shavings as I drilled the holes. Cleaned any remaining shavings then replaced the dielectric grease for the horn. I was able to salvage the wire clips from the original harness and it feels better to have everything properly secured. Thanks again for the tip about the TW35, the holes at 3 and 9o'clock, and the solder on the horn pin. The truck is currently in top shape.
 
Thanks @g-man. It's installed! Works great. I will no longer be the annoying oblivious guy with a turn signal on for days. I will miss the intermittent windshield setting but I couldn't find anyone who had solved for that with these switches... oh well. I bought a switch a month ago but it had the short wiring harness. The seller returned my money and didn't want the harness back! Ha. The short harness went in, but kept me from raising the steering wheel enough. Nice to have that solved. I didn't know at the time of that first install, about the 3 vs 2 pin plastic column. This time I used a metal punch and marked the two holes on the steering wheel so the drill bit wouldn't squirm around. Removed all grease. Set up the shop vac to suck up metal shavings as I drilled the holes. Cleaned any remaining shavings then replaced the dielectric grease for the horn. I was able to salvage the wire clips from the original harness and it feels better to have everything properly secured. Thanks again for the tip about the TW35, the holes at 3 and 9o'clock, and the solder on the horn pin. The truck is currently in top shape.
I’ve got intermittent and cruise on mine.

 
I will miss the intermittent windshield setting but I couldn't find anyone who had solved for that with these switches... oh well.

you can add intermittent wipers to your 60 stalk pretty easily. Read the thread i linked. There is a link on the first post.

Conversely, you can just transfer your old wiper arm to your new TW35 combo switch. Also in that thread
 
I don't know about that part in particular but I give Cruiser Corps the highest mark on parts and support. Those guys are just the best. And they have been around for years. I would think that if you had any issues, they will help. They even find and ship big parts for my imported HDJ.
 

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