Turn Signal Fix using parts from a 1983 Toyota Pickup (1 Viewer)

[klinetime574]

After discovering the blinker switch/ turn signal switch was discontinued, I was determined to fix my blinkers. I thought about it for a long time. Then I remembered reading something related. I searched and found THIS thread. Not sure what year truck @woytovich got that off of. I was flipping through every year Toyota on Rock Auto. Then I found it. 1983 Toyota Pickup Turn Signal Switch. I believe this would be a third gen. part (78-83).

Enter the Airtex/Wells 1S3127

It is the whole assembly that bolts to the steering column. Turn signal stalk/switch, hazard switch, horn pin, wiper stalk/switch. It is nearly identical to my 1984 FJ60 assembly. It even has TEQ markings on it and the part numbers on the back of the headlight stalk is the same. Only differences: the pickup part has a "mist" setting on the wiper stalk, the turn signal cancel has two prongs that align with the wheel, not three like the FJ60. Lastly the wiring harness is shorter.

EDIT just discovered this pickup part doesn’t have an intermittent setting. I’m going to figure out if I want it or not.
EDIT EDIT the difference in wire count and wiper switch side is the lack of an intermittent function. The “mist” function is a momentary switch that is used by pressing up. Read further for more tech on this.

That last item is going to be the most work that I have to do. The harness will need to be extended. All 20 wires. FJ60 harness has 21. The wire in question goes to the wiper circuitry on the stock part. Not sure what it does.

I plugged in the new part. Blinkers work, hazard switch works, "mist" setting worked. (I did not test the lights or the other wiper functions but I imagine they work.)

Here you can see the difference in the wiring length:

Close up of the front:

Close up of the rear:

Look at the numbers below the stalk stamped on the plastic in the next two pictures:

 

[klinetime574]

Teaser, confirming the bolt pattern to the steering column:

Then I was looking at the turn signal cancel. White on the new part with two studs that go into the back of the wheel. Brown on the old part with three studs. I decided to give it a little tug… POP. Came off. Then pulled it off the old part. Cleaned it and installed on the new part.

Note the FJ60 cancel is closest to the new part in this picture:

FJ60 cancel on new pickup part:

Now let's take a look at the harness end. FJ60 plug is blue, pickup plug is black. You can see the pin missing is the fourth from the top right. Again this goes to the wiper circuit board on the FJ60 part. I know I didn't test all the functions but it seems like its going to work even with this missing wire.

Another side by side of the two parts. Note I had not yet swapped the turn signal cancel (brown and white parts)

Also to note, the stalk assemblies are identical. Same bends. The pickup wiper stalk sits a little lower, but if you push up into the "mist" setting that is the off position of the FJ60 part.

I'll get more progress on this ASAP, debating on how to lengthen these wires. I'd love to hear some ideas on that.

 

[red66toy]

Awesome find. When you are done. Add this to the alternative parts thread.

 

[OSS]

This is excellent!
As for lengthening the wires, the way I'd do it is remove the black rubber wrap covering them all, then cut all wires mid way then splice in a length on each one using adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors (harbor freight or Anchor brand) crimped with a quality crimper (not harbor freight) then heat sealed to shrink the end & melt the adhesive.

But splicing 22 wires like that will make a big bundle because of the thickness of the butt connectors - so that has to be accounted for.

 

[g-man]

could you get a female plug off a parts vehicle? The one that the turn signals plug into, pull all the wires out of it, then cut and attach the wires on your fj60 turn signal to it. In essence make a pigtail adapter that goes from the new male plug to the female plug in your 60?

 

[g-man]

Just get both sides of the plug off a donor and have them cut the wires close to the turn signal. Then unplug the truck side and connect to the opposite side closest to the signals. Then you can leave your 60 signal and wires as a back up in case.

 

[g-man]

Looking at the images in Rockauto, the "Ultra Power" economy brand switch looks like it has a longer harness.

 

[Skniper]

Does the FJ60 not have an intermittent wiper function? ....like the FJ62. If not, did not know that.

My blinker/wiper stalks work great still *knocks on wood*...but would love to find some new stalks because most the white lettering has worn away.

Good cross reference tech though.

 

[klinetime574]

Looking at the images in Rockauto, the "Ultra Power" economy brand switch looks like it has a longer harness.

It may. Worth a shot to buy it if someone else wants to try. I’ll just lengthen these wires.

Does the FJ60 not have an intermittent wiper function? ....like the FJ62. If not, did not know that.

My blinker/wiper stalks work great still *knocks on wood*...but would love to find some new stalks because most the white lettering has worn away.

Good cross reference tech though.

You know what I didn’t realize that. My intermittent wipers are useless though. Probably the missing wire lol. The letters are worn off my wiper stalk and I haven’t driven it in a long time.

Back to the drawing board... I’ll either install as is or swap the wiper assembly. I wanted the new shiny though. Hmm

 

[g-man]

I just bought on the Ultra Power TW35 switch. I will report back and let you know if the harness is long enough. Great find.

 

[g-man]

The 60 wiper switch is OFF, INT, LOW, and HIGH. May re-position the pins/wires in the plug so the new switch will work as written on the switch MIST,OFF,LOW, and HIGH. Mist being the same as intermittent.

 

[klinetime574]

The 60 wiper switch is OFF, INT, LOW, and HIGH. May re-position the pins/wires in the plug so the new switch will work as written on the switch MIST,OFF,LOW, and HIGH. Mist being the same as intermittent.

The "mist" position is a spring loaded switch, not a flip and stay. I may just keep this one as is, I rarely use the intermittent setting, and I'm too lazy to fix the noisy intermittent relay.

 

[g-man]

I got the Ultra Power TW35 switch today. The wiring harness IS long enough. All switches work. It is plug and play except for the turn signal cancel. I tried to put the old brown one on the new switch but is was very tight and did a lot of squeeking. I pulled it off. I don't recommend trying to switch them. Instead what I did was drill two small holes at 3 and 9 oclock positions in the back of the steering wheel to accomodate the small plastic pins protruding from the white piece. I took a wire keeper off the old harness down low just before the plug and moved it to the new harness. Everything else is plug and play. You will lose intermittent setting but gain the "mist".

 

[g-man]

And some more of the install

 

[g-man]

The last image I am pointing at the wire keeper I moved to the new harness

 

[g-man]

and a few more shots. When putting the clam shell back on it helps to do the 2 middle (machine screws first). Also as seen in the image you can pull the "land cruiser" emblem off the center of the wheel instead of the three screws in the back and having to unplug and plug the horn wire.

 

[g-man]

Last two shots ( NOT Very good but you get the idea) of the holes where the middle screws go. Notice there are 2 holes on each side. The small holes take a plastic pin in the bottom of the clam shell. On the key side this small hole is in the back and on the other side the small hole is in the front. Get these pins in first to line things up.

 

[g-man]

If you're getting ready to try this fyi:

1. remove the steering wheel cover by removing the 3 screws on the underside of the wheel and pull the horn wire. Prob a good idea to dis-connect the battery.

2. Remove the nut on the steering wheel. It is 19mm. I used a socket and 3 inch extension.

3. Remove the steering wheel. you will need a steering wheel puller with the correct threaded (metric) bolts not sure of the size but look close to 5/16. maybe 8mm??(Hoping someone will chime in here) to free the wheel from the splines. Make sure your front tires are straight and mark the position of the steering wheel to the shaft.(marker or punch)so the steering wheel is oriented straight when your tires are straight and your moving straight ahead. nothing more annoying than a cock-eyed steering wheel.

4. Loosen the switch assy. 4 screws and the switch assy comes out. Leave it in place until you unplug the wires.

5. Remove the clam shell. 6 screws on the bottom of the clam shell.

6. Loosen the harness. 4 screws holding the wiring harness in place and one clip and a metal tab that bends.

7. Unplug the harness. To remove the plug, Use a thumb nail to push the release tabs located on the middle of the plugs while pulling to separate.

8. remove the wire keeper and attach to the new harness. See image above where I am pointing with the screw driver.

9. measure, mark and drill 2 small holes in the back of the steering at 3 and 9 oclock position to accomodate the new white turn signal cancel. If you need to you can pull the white turn signal cancel off the switch assembly to help measure. I was able to pull it by hand and remove. The brown turn signal cancel switch is way to tight to fit on the new switch assembly. I fought hard to get it on only to realize that it wouldn't turn freely on it like it is supposed to. I just about destroyed it trying to remove it from the new switch. It was way too tight and squeeked very loud when turning the steering wheel. Tried spray lube on it without it helping. Not saying it can't be done. You would have to sand it down on the inside of the brown turn signal cancel to take out some plastic and fit it several times. It is very hard to remove if its too tight. For me it was much faster to drill two small holes in the back of the wheel and go with the white cylinder.

install in reverse order

two small tabs in the bottom of the clam shell near the 2 middle holes align with holes in the metal . Make sure the tabs are in the holes then attach the two machine screws first.

Edit: A much easier method of installing the steering wheel is to put the horn buttons and cover on the steering wheel before putting the wheel on the column. This way your not torso twisting and putting your head under the column. Install the horn signal wire connector (that goes from horn buttons to pin ring terminal) to the wheel while the wheel is off the column. This way you can get to the back side and using a screwdriver make sure the connector is tight. Push the land cruiser emblem out of the middle of the cover. Then still while the wheel is off turn it over and install the 3 screws to secure the cover. Then using a socket and extension go thru the hole in the center of the cover to put the wheel back on the stem. Finally push the land cruiser emblem back in.

 

[klinetime574]

@g-man Good work brother. I kept telling myself I was going to work on mine today. I didn’t. Let’s shoot for tomorrow lol.

 

[g-man]

yeah, I didn't try to switch any of the pins in the wiring plug. But the wiper switch works as labeled on the new switch simply by plugging it in. I will try the "mist" on it as set up. I probably turn my intermittents on and off like a mist setting anyway. Also I did test the washer button, then 4 way flasher and the turn signal return.

The turn signal return cylinder has bars on the outside that contact the turn signal switch to "return" it back to the center position. The bars are located at 180 degrees from each other unlike the brown return cylinder on the cruiser switch. That one has bars at about 45 degrees apart. I made 90 degree turns and when the wheel came back around it did reset the switch so I don't think that it matters too much.

Also I noticed the new switch is much tighter. As in "new" tight. Nice. I didn't realize my old switch was loose and sloppy. Most likely from worn internal springs.

I noticed the hole in the clam shell where the headlight switch arm comes out. Is there a rubber piece or brush or something that covers this?? You can see the wires in one of the pictures above.