Turn Signal Fix using parts from a 1983 Toyota Pickup (2 Viewers)

[klinetime574]

I noticed the hole in the clam shell where the headlight switch arm comes out. Is there a rubber piece or brush or something that covers this?? You can see the wires in one of the pictures above.

Nothing there to cover it as far as I know. No point in my mind really. Can’t see it when you’re sitting in the driver seat behind the wheel.

 

[TLC Norway]

great intel!

 

[klinetime574]

I’m working on this. Was going to run out of heat shrink. Had to buy more, then ate dinner, then went to my friends house to continue work on our first home brew. Pic for proof. Harvesting wires from the old part which is no good. Leaving the wiper switch alone though since I may want to go back and use it.

White Chocolate Ale for the curious minds.

I’m tired of soldering. Did two different styles. At first I was twisting and forming a “U” then hooking together. Now I’m just putting them end to end and pushing together, globbing solder and boom. I’m happy with the results. Don’t need to worry about them coming apart, probably stronger than butt connectors.

Note in the following photo I’m just using black wire to extend the wiper functions.

These three small wires, two white, one red, appear to be for the headlights. They lead into the stalk itself. Those were soldered with the “U” style.

More progress tomorrow after work.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

effin GOOD WORK TEAM! sticky???

 

[brownbear]

When I solder wires (taught to me in aviation maintenance college) I strip about 1.5 inches off each wire.

Then I over lap the wires and leaving about 1/2 an inch between the wires on the insulation, twisting the wire in opposite directions. More of a wrap then a twist, each wire wraps the other wire.

Even without the solder the connection would not come apart.

To avoid making harness thickness to large you can stagger the joints.

 

[g-man]

I noticed my brake, seatbelt and volt light on. This even though the key was in the lock (off) position. I started my truck and went to turn it off and IT STAYED RUNNING! I pulled the coil wire to kill it. Disc the battery. The ignition switch ohm tested good. The key cylinder is good. Then I tapped the positive cable to the battery and noticed the wipers are on even though the ignition switch is disconnected. I hooked up the battery cable and turned off the wipers. Noticed the dash lights still on. Disc the turn sig/headlight harness and the dash lights were off. Hooked up the old harness ...dash lights were off and ignition works right. Then I found the issue. The hazard switch was in between off and on and current was back feeding to the ignition. I Turned it off and dash lights go off. Plugged the old harness in...hazard switch doesn't hang up in the in between position and I can't get the dash light on by trying to hold it in the middle. I'll just have to keep an eye on the hazard switch for now and make sure it doesn't get left in the "in between position", drain my battery or back feed the ignition. @klinetimes574 when you get your harness hooked up see if the hazard switch does the same thing.

 

[g-man]

I just pulled the hazard switch off my old assembly. The mechanical part that toggles. There's a small ball and spring underneath. Have to take the 2 screws out and pull the turn signal wires off first as they are mechanically linked to the hazard toggle. For now I'll just go with the new switch but if the back feed issue becomes a problem I will try and switch hazard toggles.

 

[klinetime574]

@g-man this sounds interesting. I wonder what could be going on. The only difference between the parts I have is no intermittent wipers. Without the intermittent relay hooked up to the switch it shouldn't be sending power. Do you have a picture of your connector on the new part? Take a picture of it and compare it to the two I posted (blue original, and black new part) I want to see if we have the same number of pins, etc. I want to compare the Airtex part to the Ultra Power.

 

[g-man]

Pretty sure the pins are the same as yours. The hazard switch is hot all the time so if you break down you can turn them on. Problem is the toggle switch getting hung up between on and off back feeds the current to the ignition. Interestingly it doesn't turn on the 4 way flasher until it is all the way over to the right.

 

[klinetime574]

Got as much done as I could tonight. I have an early meeting at work tomorrow. Had to finish extending the plug side. Then started joining. 9 wires left to solder.

Take a look in the background of the next shot. I’m so tired of stripping and soldering haha.

Work station

To be continued...

 

[klinetime574]

I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Started it up. All functions work. Mission accomplished. I extended the harness a little too much. Didn’t think that would be an issue, but for anyone doing this just factor in the type of solder joints you will be doing.

Driving this pile to work tomorrow. I’ll post an update then. Look for the update in my ROTM thread where I will link this repair.

 

[samc2447]

Nice work, seeing the crisp white lettering on the stalks makes me want to do this on mine.

 

[klinetime574]

Nice work, seeing the crisp white lettering on the stalks makes me want to do this on mine.

Thanks man. Yeah I like it a lot. One of the reasons why I opted to install this part even though it does not have an intermittent setting. #yolo

 

[samc2447]

Thanks man. Yeah I like it a lot. One of the reasons why I opted to install this part even though it does not have an intermittent setting. #yolo

Driving in to work the other day it was misting, and the intermittent setting was too quick, so I ended up turning off and on. I think I would prefer the misting option to the intermittent anyway.

 

[g-man]

Been using my new mist setting last few days. Works great. Only forgot one time cause I went to flip it down and back up the old way. Like riding a bike though...once your brain gets used to it, pushing up on the switch instead of down will come easily .

 

[g-man]

@beno...this thread to: 60 FAQ electrical mods?

 

[g-man]

Noticed another minor flaw with my switch (Ultra Power brand) today. The horn wire is soldered to the horn pin on the back side of the switch. Unlike the land cruiser's switch horn wire which is held in place by a brass terminal connector. The problem with the solder is that the pin moves up and down on the spring and the wire broke loose at the solder point. I used the connector off my old one to repair it.

 

[4Cruisers]

Noticed another minor flaw with my switch (Ultra Power brand) today. The horn wire is soldered to the horn pin on the back side of the switch. Unlike the land cruiser's switch horn wire which is held in place by a brass terminal connector. The problem with the solder is that the pin moves up and down on the spring and the wire broke loose at the solder point. I used the connector off my old one to repair it.

Thanks for the continuing updates.

 

[Spike Strip]

@klinetime574

So after a year, how has this worked out ? Great write-up, btw. Thanks very much!

@Mace @Rigger

I had a hell of a time finding this 'cuz it ain't in the FAQ .... (hint )

 

[OGBeno]

@MountNGoat