Truck > FJ60 intermittent wiper assembly swap

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 2, 2003
Threads
1,820
Messages
14,102
Location
Metro NY
So… I was sick of the single speed intermittent wiper setting on my 85FJ60 - it was always too slow or too fast.

I learned from mud that the wiper controller assembly [that contains the wiper stalk, the turn signal stalk and the hazard switch] from a mid 80s Toyota mini truck (and maybe other mid 80s Toyotas), has a 4 speed intermittent controller. I'd read about this swap in a couple of other threads here on mud... it was supposed to be a straight plug-n-play swap so I decided to do it.

Well it does work and I love it but it is not QUITE a simple swap. I thought I'd document the gotchas and my solutions to them here with the hope of improving the rainy day driving experience for some other 60 drivers.

-----------------------------------------------------

Pictures follow - I hope this helps.

What works without modification:
General fitment of the assembly
Wiring harness connector
Functionality

What needs some fiddling:
The bend in the stalks
The collar that deactivates the turn signal when coming out of a turn
Hazard switch and column cover

-----------------------------------------------------

To make this all happen you need to remove your steering wheel. If you are smart you will park the truck with the wheels straight ahead to make it easier to get the wheel back on straight when you are done. (Ask me how I know)

To get the wheel off you need to remove the cover that contains the 3 horn buttons. There are 3 screws that come in from the back side - a stubby phillips screwdriver is useful here. There is a wire for the horns that will need to be pulled off of it's spade connector as you pull the cover off - remember to put this back in reassembly!

Then you'll need to remove the nut holding the steering wheel to the steering column shaft. Once that nut is off a steering wheel puller is used to pop the wheel off of the splined shaft.

The steering column cover comes off next. There are 3-4 screws up from the bottom holding the 2 halves of the cover together and then a couple of screws holding the bottom half to the column.

Now you can attack the wire harness. This is held in place in a way that will make you think they were afraid this would somehow want to come loose. The blue plug at the end of the harness is screwed down and there are a couple of brackets holding the wires in place - one a clip on, the other is screwed down - Talk about over built!

Next the assembly itself can be removed - there are 4 screws facing the driver to remove for this. Take the old one off and put the new one in place… but wait… This is where you’ll want to straighten out the bend in each of the stalks some. In the pictures I had seen here the guy was using a Grant steering wheel. I guess this avoided the problem I ran into.

The truck stalks are bent towards the driver significantly more than the FJ60 stalks. This results in them being uncomfortably close to your knuckles when you have your hands on the steering wheels driving… just about a nickel’s width for the wiper stalk, a bit more for the turn signal side. VERY CAREFULLY bend these stalks back towards straight. They are thin metal hollow tubes (with wires inside) and can easily break! They are attached to 25 year old plastic bits that can easily break – proceed at your own risk! This will be MUCH easier to do before you install the assembly in the column but feel free to test fit it up to see how tight it is. I bent mine out about 1/2 “ each.

Now just put it all back together… Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Don’t forget to line up the wheel on the column and make sure the turn signal deactivation thingy is lined up right…

BUT WAIT! The plastic deactivation collar on the assembly that slides in and out towards the driver needs to have it’s little tabs on the front aligned with the holes on the back side of the steering wheel. This engagement causes the collar to rotate with the wheel while some ribs along the side of the collar bump the turn signal mechanism popping off your turn signals as you come out of a corner. If the tabs don’t align in the holes the wheel will go on but the turn signals won’t deactivate correctly. (Ask me how I know)

The problem with this is that my FJ60 set-up had 3 tabs/holes and the truck’s had just 2 – and the 2 tabs didn’t line up with any 2 of the tabs on my steering wheel. My solution, suggested by my son as I was about to try to disassemble the whole thing to try to swap collars, was to drill a matching hole in the steering wheel. We just drilled deep enough to engage the 2nd tab and it all worked fine.

NOW you can put it all back together. Go as far as bolting on the steering wheel but leave off the column cover and wheel cover/horn button piece. Test all of the stalk functions. Drive the truck to see that the wheel is aligned correctly (be careful, you won’t have any horns – and that is probably illegal)

Button up the covers (oh, yeah - you are going to have to cut out a bit of your column top cover to accommodate the hazard switch. On the truck it is front back and the 60 is side to side... see the pics) and enjoy your intermittent wiper functionality!
-----------------------------------------------------

ALL DONE:
IMG_1590.jpg
 
Last edited:
Some pictures. Using the puller. Showing the tight fit between the wheel and the stalk before bending...
IMG_1578.webp
IMG_1573.webp
IMG_1572.webp
 
Last edited:
The first shows the truck and FJ60 assembly before bending to show the difference in the bends and the second pic is after the new ones were straightened some. The truck assembly is installed, I'm holding the FJ60 assembly. The solo pic is the truck stalks before bending. You can see the differences in the hazard switch here too.
IMG_1575.webp
IMG_1577.webp
IMG_1574.webp
 
Last edited:
These show the 2 different collars and the back of the steering wheel with the 4th hole drilled (it is the middle one of the 3 that are closer together)
IMG_1583.webp
IMG_1580.webp
IMG_1586.webp
 
Finished. You can see how I cut out for the hazard switch. You can see the spacing between the wheel and the ends of the stalks too.
IMG_1589.webp
IMG_1588.webp
IMG_1587.webp
 
I just wrapped mine up tonight. I started 2 years ago and left the top cover off. Now I have the Land Cruiser hazard light switch and the intermittent wiper. Mine came off an 87 4Runner. The stick was the same distance from the steering wheel as the original. The sleeve that cancels the turn signal will come off your original with a little tug so you don't have to drill your steering wheel. And if you just pull out the emblem in the center of the steering wheel you don.t have to remove the entire cover. Don't waste your time with a steering wheel puller. Just break the nut loose about 3-4 turns and grab the steering wheel real good and pull real hard. A few good tugs and it should pop loose. Then remove the nut the rest of the way. I will post picts of mine later this week. If you are not going to keep your original headlight/turn signal stuff would you be willing to sell it to me?
 
...Now I have the Land Cruiser hazard light switch...Mine came off an 87 4Runner. The stick was the same distance from the steering wheel as the original.

Did you mod the hazard switch or did the 87 have the same one as the cruiser?

The sleeve that cancels the turn signal will come off your original with a little tug so you don't have to drill your steering wheel.

I guess I would have figured that out if I played with it some more... good to know!

And if you just pull out the emblem in the center of the steering wheel you don.t have to remove the entire cover. Don't waste your time with a steering wheel puller. Just break the nut loose about 3-4 turns and grab the steering wheel real good and pull real hard. A few good tugs and it should pop loose. Then remove the nut the rest of the way.

Mine wouldn't come loose like that the first time... probably it will now.

I will post pics of mine later this week.

Please do!

mark
 
This is definitely going on my list of to-dos. Great write-up.
 
Very nice need to start looking that's great
Also what did you do with the stock relay
 
Very nice need to start looking that's great
Also what did you do with the stock relay

What you see here is the only swap necessary. The circuit board in the assembly handles sending power to the wiper system.

By the way, while you have the horn/wheel cover off it is a good time to clean the horn contacts, a little bit of fine sandpaper will do it. My horns now are stronger and don't "static" when I push the button.

My next quest will be to research the "park/return" of the wipers when they are turned off. Mine stop higher than I would like. I know that has been discussed here elsewhere.
 
What you see here is the only swap necessary. The circuit board in the assembly handles sending power to the wiper system.

By the way, while you have the horn/wheel cover off it is a good time to clean the horn contacts, a little bit of fine sandpaper will do it. My horns now are stronger and don't "static" when I push the button.

My next quest will be to research the "park/return" of the wipers when they are turned off. Mine stop higher than I would like. I know that has been discussed here elsewhere.

Do your wipers "park" at the lowest point of travel, or are they a little up from that? It is really easy to adjust where they park, just loosen the nut connecting the arm to the pivot, pull up a little to loosen the arm from the spline, and rotate the arm. Tighten the nut back down when they are in the right location. If you're finding that they don't "park" in the lowest spot, then the eccentric on the motor is in a slightly wrong spot. This is adjusted similarly to the arms, but require digging in and accessing the wiper motor. Maybe there is an electrical way to adjust this stuff, but I've found it to be really simple to adjust them this way on many vehicles.
 
Mark -
Great idea, well executed and documented. Excellent return on effort and expense.

One question: From the parts blow-up, it appears that the switch can be swapped out without doing the whole assembly. Does it look that way in real life?

Thanks.
 
One question: From the parts blow-up, it appears that the switch can be swapped out without doing the whole assembly. Does it look that way in real life?

Thanks.

Maybe, but the brains of the operation is in the circuit board. If that is part of the switch in your case then maybe.
 
Last edited:
I looked in the EPC and there's a wide variation of part #'s for '83-89 4runner / trucks for that wiper switch and/or the whole assembly. One for w/tilt steering wheel, without, there's other notations for different models, but I don't know enough about 4runners/trucks to see if there's one part # with the most wiper features ...

Anybody?
 
Well I am told the assembly I used was from a Toy pickup Xtra cab, 1987... it seems there are other considerations if cruiserfj45 had an 87 4Runner assembly that didn't need shaft straightening... maybe truck vs 4Runner?
 
Back
Top Bottom