turbo manifold project

[landtank]

x2, I would be interested in this, as well as a bung for a wideband O2 on one of your exhaust setups! I have no fab/metalworking skills or tools so a bolt on manifold/turbo/exhaust would be the best option for me

Sorry Landtank for the hijack :whoops:

No Problem. It was already on my mind to talk with him about a 3" mandrel exhaust. Right now I think he has his hands full finishing the stock system.

 

[96r50]

No Problem. It was already on my mind to talk with him about a 3" mandrel exhaust. Right now I think he has his hands full finishing the stock system.

Fantastic!

 

[firetruck41]

Great news Landtank! BTW, love my new MAF setup (cool stickers!). The quality of your work is impressive, and gives confidence in your products. Would love to figure out a way ($$$) to once again follow in your footsteps w/ a turbo.

 

[landtank]

Great news Landtank! BTW, love my new MAF setup (cool stickers!). The quality of your work is impressive, and gives confidence in your products. Would love to figure out a way ($$$) to once again follow in your footsteps w/ a turbo.

thanks, the stickers were a gift from someone who I did a build for. I'm going to do my best to keep the cost of the manifold down. But like always it is about the numbers.

 

[cruiserdan]

A sale without a profit is a gift.

 

[mot]

A sale without a profit is a gift.

I think Rick is a pretty charitable feller...

 

[landtank]

A sale without a profit is a gift.

Yes I know and yes I will charge enough to recoup my expenses in R&D with a little extra to fund my next project.

But that is really the payoff for me, funding the next project. I always have ideas floating around in the skull and some of them take a good amount of cash to ensure they are properly designed and built. I like making things that I would buy not just stuff that will sell.

 

[landtank]

I started a thread here for those interested in getting a manifold.

It's simply a way to gauge interest and whether or not it's worth going into limited production on these. If you sign up there is no obligation to purchase.

 

[96r50]

Another question, is this still going to work with a York setup as you alluded to earlier?

 

[landtank]

Another question, is this still going to work with a York setup as you alluded to earlier?

I can't see why not. I've got nothing planned for that space in the engine bay.

One of the things that I've focused on is the "packaging" of the system. But my setup will require relocating the windshield washer tank and I will be using a bracket to relocate the Charcoal canister so I can use the tank from a 91/92 80 series which is in the DS fender.

Right now the setup is going something like this.

The air filter cover gets replaced by one from a turbo diesel 80 which has a hose connection and turns down just over the edge of the canister.

3" tubing then runs down and turns into the turbo intake next to the motor mount,

Coming out of the turbo there will be an elbow that will go into a section of pipe that has the flange for a SSQ BOV.

Another elbow after that pipe transitions into a Liquid/air intercooler.

From there another elbow transitions into the MAF and then on into the throttle body.

Now all this will hopefully happen with out the need to move the washer bottle. However I need space for the coolant pump for the intercooler so that spot is ideal for that.

One nice thing about this is the diesel cover has an extra nipple on it that you could plumb right into the York for filtered air.

 

[NKP Garage]

Baktash,

Do you think that you will be able to work out the down pipe?

We don't really do one-off's. If we work something out with Landtank to use his manifold in a turbo "kit", then that may be something we can look at. But that's another conversation. Also, keep in mind that one downpipe will not fill all turbos. Each turbo's turbine housing will put the downpipe in a slightly differnt posisiton, and may also have a different exit flange and/or bolt-pattern. Either way, a downpipe is not incredibly difficult to make. Most local shops should be able to fab one up pretty easily. The good shops that do show quality work will charge around $600-1200 to do a one-off for this sort of setup. A cheapo muffler shop can probably make one for a couple hundred bucks.

 

[concretejungle]

No Problem. It was already on my mind to talk with him about a 3" mandrel exhaust. Right now I think he has his hands full finishing the stock system.

I guess i will continue to digress slightly off topic....

why the 3"?

I ask because jfz80 has 3" exhaust (cats back), he has a supercharger, and honestly, i'm not overly impressed. He says he cannot really tell any difference in power. The only difference is noise, That thing is LOUD!

So i have been thinking the most logical choice in size is 2.5" so it can easily tuck over the frame rail, be some what quiet and still give adequate flow?

Advise?

 

[landtank]

I guess i will continue to digress slightly off topic....

why the 3"?

I ask because jfz80 has 3" exhaust (cats back), he has a supercharger, and honestly, i'm not overly impressed. He says he cannot really tell any difference in power. The only difference is noise, That thing is LOUD!

So i have been thinking the most logical choice in size is 2.5" so it can easily tuck over the frame rail, be some what quiet and still give adequate flow?

Advise?

completely different animal. First the turbine in itself has a muffler character to it and since it's the escaping gasses that power it, the better the flow the quicker the spool. More powa!

A SC is mechanically driven and the gains are marginal.

But I'm not an exhaust guy by any means and I'm sure someone can give a better explanation.

 

[Dusty]

great to see the final product. what an undertaking. I cant wait to see the turbo build.

I cant see a downpipe being part of a "Kit" unless one turbo is chosen for the kit.

That being said if people use turbos from the same family they would be basically bolt on. FOR INSTANCE: if you build the turbo to fit a To4e you are free to mess with/change the cold and hot sides of the turbo but still bolt right up with little change in the position of the downpipe. just make sure the downpipe has a flexable stainless piece in it at the bottom or make sure the exhaust after the downpipe has a flexable piece. (it should anyway)

But once the downpipe is included with the manifold the "kit" is still far from complete. you still need the bracket for the intercooler and the brackets for the grill-both of which are a bitch. you also need to relocate water lines. the only easy part is the tubing for the intercooler.

keep it going

 

[tblume]

Yes I know and yes I will charge enough to recoup my expenses in R&D with a little extra to fund my next project.

But that is really the payoff for me, funding the next project. I always have ideas floating around in the skull and some of them take a good amount of cash to ensure they are properly designed and built. I like making things that I would buy not just stuff that will sell.

any chance your next big idea would be a way to make the "bolt on turbo kit" work for us OBD1 guys? from what little I know and have read on these systems I think that plug and play turbos are reserved for the '95+ crowd due to fueling/ECU issues.

or did I miss something along the way?

your cast manifold looks miles superior to the first gen pictures of the weld ells, huge thumbs up to you for persevering on this project.

 

[landtank]

any chance your next big idea would be a way to make the "bolt on turbo kit" work for us OBD1 guys? from what little I know and have read on these systems I think that plug and play turbos are reserved for the '95+ crowd due to fueling/ECU issues.

or did I miss something along the way?

your cast manifold looks miles superior to the first gen pictures of the weld ells, huge thumbs up to you for persevering on this project.

thanks for the compliments. Yes the 93/94 trucks are a challenge do to the fueling issues. I personally don't have any idea how to deal with that but I'm sure it can be done.

There was a guy that turbo charged a 62 so he should have a pretty good idea what's involved. You might contact him or start a thread on here to specifically discuss the issues.

 

[NKP Garage]

I guess i will continue to digress slightly off topic....

why the 3"?

I ask because jfz80 has 3" exhaust (cats back), he has a supercharger, and honestly, i'm not overly impressed. He says he cannot really tell any difference in power. The only difference is noise, That thing is LOUD!

So i have been thinking the most logical choice in size is 2.5" so it can easily tuck over the frame rail, be some what quiet and still give adequate flow?

Advise?

completely different animal. First the turbine in itself has a muffler character to it and since it's the escaping gasses that power it, the better the flow the quicker the spool. More powa!

A SC is mechanically driven and the gains are marginal.

But I'm not an exhaust guy by any means and I'm sure someone can give a better explanation.

3" is nice for forced induction setups, but in reality 3" vs 2.5" will not benefit you by much and in some cased won't show any gains at all unless you're around 350whp or greater. For the majority of folks that plan on sticking with the stock ecu, and stock fuel system, the 2.5" is the way to go. For the few that want to go with an aftermarket ECU or piggy pack along with larger injectors, pump and tuning, then the 3" would be the way to go for max power potential, but the 2.5" would work just as well, but net slightly lower power.

 

[concretejungle]

3" is nice for forced induction setups, but in reality 3" vs 2.5" will not benefit you by much and in some cased won't show any gains at all unless you're around 350whp or greater. For the majority of folks that plan on sticking with the stock ecu, and stock fuel system, the 2.5" is the way to go. For the few that want to go with an aftermarket ECU or piggy pack along with larger injectors, pump and tuning, then the 3" would be the way to go for max power potential, but the 2.5" would work just as well, but net slightly lower power.

Thanks for the reply

I am preparing to replace my exhaust right now. Just need to finish gathering the loose change. I think i'm going to stick with the 2.5" and go over the frame, also plan on using a piece of flex pipe at the downpipe. It will not be as loud and it's easier to snake around the frame from what i can tell.

Hijack off... sorry guys.

 

[BeratE]

Just read the whole thing. It is great to see somebody go all the way through from and idea to a real nice final product. Congrats that you stuck with it!

 

[AFinn]

LT
maybe i missed it, but what intercooler would you hope to run? i noticed the liquid/air intercooler mentioned, but am curious how big and how you would situate it? i know i saw one of those used on a cheap jeep set up a while back, and it looked like a good way to go, since there were no intercooler lines having to be routed to the front/back of the grill and all, but i dont know how well they(liquid/air cooler) work in comparison. it definatly would be nice to keep the factory air element, so a snorkle will still be an easy option!