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- #21
Damnit.... now you are makign thinking slow rebuild again... WAY cheaper, but a lot more downtime.
Trusted source for 80 series crate motor? (4 Viewers)
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Damnit.... now you are makign thinking slow rebuild again... WAY cheaper, but a lot more downtime.
So if you go to a car lot and ask the salesman "how much", that means your not interested ? I think if somebody told me that in person I would tell them to %$% themselves
i hear that.. i blew my back out doing too much too fast it so it was about 2 months down time getting it all back together..
About where I was thinking. Not bad considering how much most people pay for a remanufactured one. I've always wondered if you would need to disassemble them anyway and re-lube all the bearings before starting it up. Who knows how long that thing has been sitting in a warehouse drying out. A couple years ago a somewhat local member had a brand new one installed and it shredded a bearing within a few days. I always wondered if that was the cause.
Are you sure it's burning oil because the rings are bad or could it just be that the valves and seals need to be done? Could you do a compression test to help determine that?
I suppose you could take it all apart and just make sure everything was clean, but if you are going to do that you might as well buy a junkyard block, the forged rods and pistons have them do the machining and bolt it together since you will be doing all the steps anyways. lol.
So if you go to a car lot and ask the salesman "how much", that means your not interested ? I think if somebody told me that in person I would tell them to %$% themselves
I don't waste people's time. If I go on a car lot, I'm buying and not asking what something costs if I have no intention of buying anything.
And, luckily, I'm not a salesman.
And, luckily, I'm not a salesman.
I couldn't agree with you more on that one.
Maybe, I was thinking the problem might just be that the assembly lube had dried out over the years. In which case it would be easy enough to unbolt the mains and lube everything back up. Then you would still have all of the benefits of an unworn assembly and not have to worry about smoking it right out of the gate.
inkpot
SILVER Star
We have done several head gasket jobs and the new valve seals seem to have cured the oil consumption problems on each one of them.
4wheelspulling
The Brick!
There are places in Portland, Or., Seattle, Wa., Spokane, Wa., Tacoma, Wa., that all sell rebuilt Japanese engines. All also have low mile takeouts from Japan. A quick Internet search will give you lots of information. I think they all my come from the same company in Tacoma, Wa.
2fpower
SILVER Star
The bottom end of a 1fz is amazing. Just heard my machine shop guys amazed by it. 7 main caps, while most v8 have 5. oilers. Really everything on that engine is heavy duty -- tractor style.
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- #34
This is what I am thinking, but how can I tell the difference in bad compresion from the HG, and bad rings?
Im hearing a LOT of this, and if rebuilding the head and going that route can save me the downtime and expense of a full rebuild, I am all for it.
Sub'd. Gotta see where this goes.
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- #36
I'm in about the same boat. Cruiser isn't using oil, but has a little knock on startup and has 170k miles. I'd really like more power, but I like the 1fz. Been driving a rental Ford Expedition through CO with the ecoboost engine. Rolled over Monarch pass like a boss. I want that for my 80....hopefully you and me both.
...and it really doesn't take much psi to accomplish that. Did it a couple weeks ago loaded for a dirtbike trip. Easily went as fast as I was comfortable taking the corners.
This was my experience as well. I wasn't burning a lot of oil before I did the head gasket but I asked the folks that were doing the head work to check the valve clearances and to see if they were leaking at all. It turned out that a few were out of spec and I just had them do a grind and re-seat job along with having the seals done and my truck doesn't burn a drop now. The bottom end showed no signs of visible wear when I sent the oil into Blackstone and the motor runs and sounds much "tighter" than it did before I did the head.
It does take time, but not that much. If you have a mostly rust free engine bay, you could probably do it in two, two day stretches. Two to get it apart, then the turn around time for the machine shop to do their thing and then two to put it all back together. If you commit to it and get into the schedule with the machine shop, you can have it all done over the course of a week and the bookend weekends.
Let's look at HOW and WHEN it burns oil.
When you first start it in the morning, does it smoke? White / Blue / Black? Puff or continuous?
When you are rolling down the highway and back off the gas, do you get a cloud of smoke consistently behind you? White / Blue / Black?
When you stomp it to the floor from a stop sign, do you get a puff of smoke? A long cloud of smoke? White / Blue / Black?
Does it leave a puddle on the ground when you park it and shut it off?
Does it leave a puddle on the ground while running and stopped?
