Troopy (1 Viewer)

[Bambino840]

It's just plain fugly.

 

[arnott1t]

Ya only for inspection and general deer defence until something smarter can be built.

 

[arnott1t]

Did a run to red deer and back in that storm on Friday and returned Saturday. Truck ran great. Mileage seems good. Yesterday's return was cold though. I certainly need new weather strip but think I also need more heat. The webasto and stock heater can't keep up to the tin box heat loss at highway speed. So my options are:
Rob a rear heater from a 40 or 70

Buy another webasto air top. This could be used for both travel heat and stopped heat. Thought stopped one webasto keeps it quite comfy

Lastly an aux heater from princess auto. Looking at either the 24000 or the 36000. This would be mounted on the wheel well to heat rear cabin area.

The PA heaters are on sale right meow for the rest of the day. I'd need to decide soon. I think they are my best bet and could do a remarkable job. They also are double the output of a webasto rated at 15000 btu.


Thoughts?

Opinions?

 

[mano002]

I used to have the small PA heater in the back of my 40. It never seemed to pump out any meaningful Heat. I think my problem was that the coolant temp wasn't hot enough though. Maybe cardboard over the rad is all you need.

I have pulled all of the stock heater assembly out of my 40 for space reasons and planned to install 2 of these:

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/mojave-heater-156/mojave-heater.html

One on defrost duty and one blowing down at feet.

Good luck!

 

[HoffLarr]

Insulate the back. Your planning on making it a kind of camping rig anyway. I think at some point you will want insulation and with the flat walls it should be easy.

 

[arnott1t]

Engine temps are good as the front heater is roast marsh mellow hot.

I agree the insulation part. But there isn't a clean way for me to do it until I really plan this thing out. That could be years away.

I've looked at and heard good thing about that Mohave heater. Be a good
Option too but I'm looking for more bulk heat I think. How to the stock rear heaters work?

My other concern is the coolant flow to the back. It's a longer way to pump back there.

 

[arnott1t]

Here is what I did. Only works 'ok' right now. Need to work on plumbing so I get more flow to the rear heater. More work to come. ....

 

[Ratpuke]

70 series rear heaters kick out some serious heat. I've found they're better than the 40 series rears for heat and they come protected.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I just finished rebuilding the heater system in the 42. I removed the whole thing and flushed rusty sediment out of the lines and both cores. I traded with Shane (MetricTLC) some time ago and got a rebuilt heater box with new weather strip and seals so the dash heat is light years better especially with the new seals on the blower and plenum. My rear heater is much better with a rebuilt valve now as the old one was frozen in the nearly off position.

But you say your front heater is toasty and not enough to heat the rest of the cavern. I would do the webasto in your situation so that you have camping heat at night.

 

[arnott1t]

Well thats the thing. I already have one webasto and was considering 2 in order to cover my lack of heat on highway trips. This new heater I think is the ace in the hole though it just needs more flow which I intend to get tonight..... I'm hoping I can also resolve my circulating heater troubles as it hasn't worked yet..... My plan is to bypass the heater control valve all together. Then run into the inlet of the front core. from their i'll run too the inlet of the rear core making the cores function in series. This will help force large amounts of flow to the rear heater.... at least thats my thought. The front heater doesn't pull much temp from the coolant lines is what I observed. Both inlet an outlet are to hot to hold onto. So there is still plenty of heat left in that coolant when it leaves the front core. Having the full flow through the line should help keep the rear heater core toasty warm. As it is now the line supplying the rear heater is roasting hot but the return is cold.... so is the air leaving the rear heater. My hypothesis was that their wasn't enough flow of hot coolant to the rear heater. The heater is capturing all the BTU's it can but there simply isn't much there.


I'll know more tomorrow...


Speaking of fabricated floor pans @Awl_TEQ have you built any late model 40 series ones? Have any kicking around collecting dust?

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I do have one late model floor for, say, a BJ42 but I don't know if I have all of the stiffeners that go underneath. Is this for the Troopy? If so it would likely fit the back four feet of the floor with a bit of trimming - or the front four feet for that matter.

 

[Ratpuke]

I think he's looking for the floor that goes under the pedals.

 

[arnott1t]

Ratpuke is correct.... I need the floor pans where my feet are when driving.

 

[HoffLarr]

That's probably why it's so cold when you are driving!

 

[Awl_TEQ]

ah, I see now. Nope. I bought mine from Dan but they required a bunch of fabricating on my end and were not worth the cost IMHO.

see post #379 -> https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/81-bj42-i-have-to-bring-it-home-and-pass-inspection.604934/page-19

 

[phoenix60]

Reverse flush the front heater while you are mucking around. That made a big improvement on the 61 when I did that, of course missing weather stripping in the driver door caused some cold airflow that didn't help, I'm thinking holes in the floorpan may need to be taken care of before insulating It's a big cabin to heat, I think the PA heater and one Webasto makes sense for a starting point.

 

[arnott1t]

[Q UOTE="phoenix60, post: 9577229, member: 54720"]Reverse flush the front heater while you are mucking around. That made a big improvement on the 61 when I did that, of course missing weather stripping in the driver door caused some cold airflow that didn't help, I'm thinking holes in the floorpan may need to be taken care of before insulating It's a big cabin to heat, I think the PA heater and one Webasto makes sense for a starting point.[/QUOTE]

Ya I did that a while back. My front heater works awesome. And my rear heater works awesome. And my
Webasto works awesome


Now to get some door seals. I whipped up some gorilla tape seals tonight to see if things get more
Better.

 

[arnott1t]

Well some more winterization efforts completed over the past couple weekends.

New door seals installed on front doors. HUGE improvement. Used the factory toyota seals robbed from ratpuke.

And today I also installed an engine heater webasto. It is frigging awesome. It isn't terribly cold out right now but it warned the truck to the point of no go plugs needed this am and instant heat. Sweet!

Came with a pretty slick timer. I've got my week programmed in for work to have it preheat before I get up and before I jump in at the end of the day.

I still need to work on a clever set up so the can heater will be triggered by the timer and the thermostat. Think I have it sorted into
Head just need to try and wire it up. In the mean time I'll have the can heater left on during the day.

I also installed and auxiliary battery. This is a telecom 115Ah agm deep cycle. It is connect through an isolator so that when the engine isn't charging it dis connects and saves the starting batteries. This battery will be used to run my
Fridge and webastos.

And lastly was some new gauges to update the factory bezel. They seem pretty nice and are better lit.

 

[meridian]

What did you decide about auxillary fuel tank between rear frame rails ? The rear floor and wheel wells also look to be in good condition

 

[arnott1t]

Well I know it's been a while with no updates. Things were awfully stagnant for to long so I enlisted some talented help to complete some next level shiate on this thing. Specifically the body work....

Quarter stripped and needing patches.

Floor pan panels

New northern bib