TRD Supercharger 1994 80 series

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obe12

obe12

Joined
Jul 25, 2023
Threads
17
Messages
363
Location
Haslet, TX
Hi all, I came across a TRD Supercharger for my 1994 Landcruiser.

Now it isn’t as simple as let’s bolt it on!
1. OBD1 computer will not handle the fuel control/ I added Haltec ECU 2500 to have idle and knock support, in parallel with oem ECUs Eng / Trans to maintain transmission shifting, speedo, cruise ect. With Duel Wideband 02s, IAT, coil over plug ignition, MAP internal to Haltech, ethanol sensor for e85, boost control of change to turbo, 4-1 can bus Haltech gauge, that’s the electronics

2. 850 matches flow injectors, with Hi flow e85 fuel pump upgrade, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and new fuel lines engine and one return at tank.

3. Removal of Air injecting system 94 only,

4. Either install wide band oem 02 sensor locations, or bung. I did bungs.

5. Wire harness modified engine l for throttle body relocation without cutting / extending wires.

6. Hester like change to no interfere with supercharger mounting.

7. Air filter top housing to keep for now VAF air flow meter and no hit the supercharger.

So this had been a process… with hopefully enough gains at the end. Once running, get an acceptable tune and drive it, either remove the Supercharger and proceed turbo or keep Supercharger and remote the engine / freashen it up lower / head and use Head studs going back together with all new coolant hoses, water pump ect.

I am at the Haltech harness integration now. Fuel system is completed and leak tested. Once wiring harness installed, rap up throttle body - radiator - fan - battery and coolant. Hopefully program the Haltect, commence fire in the hole!

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Nice !
 
First, that is beyond cool.

Second, why did you keep the VAF? Given that those are so problematic and hard to find these days. And if you are using a new computer, wouldn't a new MAF sensor be better?
 
Forgot to mention, disassembled
sjpitts said:
First, that is beyond cool.

Second, why did you keep the VAF? Given that those are so problematic and hard to find these days. And if you are using a new computer, wouldn't a new MAF sensor be better?
Click to expand...
It was suggested its needed for the parallel ECU OEM to feed info to Stock ECU - Trans to control shifting. Since mine had two OEM ECUs, engine and trans curse of 1994. But internal Map will be the sensor the Haltech uses along with Separate IAT with Shared TPS.

Fuel pump control is also triggered by the Van Airflow and can be wired around. It’s provisioned in the Haltech now, if eventual I can ditch the van air flow meter and maintain trans shifting.
 
nice project im sure the haltec will let it run better then the stock OBD2 trucks do. the wide-band will help for sure. I'm sure you can get it working and shifting without the VAF. After you get it going consider water/meth, haltec and control it and tune accordingly should help a bunch without the trouble of a intercooler and E85.
 
Got the Haltech all
Connected and wrapped up under the hood.

I need a fan spacer or another fan blade.

So, I bought an all aluminum 4 row radiator and have twin electric fans with shroud that I have not tried.

I need to provision ac turn fans or fan on because that isn’t provisioned. I may try one fan with ac on and both on when temp calls for it. I have to experiment if single fan ac on, 100 plus degrees will keep the head pressure down on the AC. It’s possible need two for the AC.

But that an option if I can’t either make a fan spacer or buy one for keep original fan clutch.

Last hurdle I missed in my planning.

ECU program, set base timing, turn on injectors and x fingers !

It will start !

IMG_9034.jpeg


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It’s Gunn be sweet
 
obe12 said:
Fantastic
Click to expand...
Well fire in the hole! Didn’t run maybe 30 seconds with no fan or coolant yet. The plan, space the fan with spacers with counter sink allen head screws “yeah I don’t like it” but it will allow me to Atleast warm the engine and start making some adjustments.

That gentleman responded stock is coming and maybe today. Great, I order one and be dreaming of the install recovering from my knee replacement surgery tomorrow actually.

This project is coming together, 5 month in the planning and getting the parts.

However it’s alive and breathing…. As of this morning. Just FYI, Haltech is A OK, had a trigger issue and Haltech was ignoring it. Having internet connection, they remote helped into my computer and took control of the software. Takes some threshold settings and wham, working!

the tech asked some questions and set this and that up while he was there. That Come at a cost… you pay it when you buy Haltech, but they are right there and answers the phone! No emailing back and forth, problem solved!

You can’t ask for better service.

Take care

Tex
 
obe12 said:
Fantastic
Click to expand...
Well fire in the hole! Didn’t run maybe 30 seconds with no fan or coolant yet. The plan, space the fan with spacers with counter sink allen head screws “yeah I don’t like it” but it will allow me to Atleast warm the engine and start making some adjustments.

That gentleman responded stock is coming and maybe today. Great, I order one and be dreaming of the install recovering from my knee replacement surgery tomorrow actually.

This project is coming together, 5 month in the planning and getting the parts.

However it’s alive and breathing…. As of this morning. Just FYI, Haltech is A OK, had a trigger issue and Haltech was ignoring it. Having internet connection, they remote helped into my computer and took control of the software. Takes some threshold settings and wham, working!

the tech asked some questions and set this and that up while he was there. That Come at a cost… you pay it when you buy Haltech, but they are right there and answers the phone! No emailing back and forth, problem solved!

You can’t ask for better service.
ThreeEyedBandit said:
Not sure what Haltech you ended up with, but they will control the transmission.

Haltech Control of the A442f - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/haltech-control-of-the-a442f.1328461/page-5#post-15360430
Click to expand...
Yes, the elite 750 and 2500… both with another box to convert Analog signals to Digital. I consider it, but was advised to go parallel. Simply if I back out I can remove it and back to stock it goes.

Yes full standalone is an opinion for sure. The extra plug and play harness was 250.00 to plug in where the transmission ECU is. I elected not to go that way. Plus the converter box … either way was a lot of configuring. Boomslang has done these before leans towards Parallel.

Tex
 
obe12 said:
Forgot to mention, disassembled

It was suggested its needed for the parallel ECU OEM to feed info to Stock ECU - Trans to control shifting. Since mine had two OEM ECUs, engine and trans curse of 1994. But internal Map will be the sensor the Haltech uses along with Separate IAT with Shared TPS.

Fuel pump control is also triggered by the Van Airflow and can be wired around. It’s provisioned in the Haltech now, if eventual I can ditch the van air flow meter and maintain trans shifting.
Click to expand...
I have been busy with my Knee Replacement Surgery. The

Walbro 460 Lph Fuel Pump​

I used per recommendation from HD Automotive, draws 15 amp average , 25amps max. I had to run supply lead to the tank and install a fuel pump relay to unload the current from the OEM wiring.

I had to work through the parallel install of Coolant Sensor, it would be easier to install a new coolant sensor in another location, but the dual shared coolant sensor you have to disable the pull up resistor in the Haltech and type in actual temperature valves in the calibration section. I got that done using infrared sensor and start cold, warming up to thermostat operation temperature plus above that and below cold. You can see the curve and interpolate.

Once that was done my OD would work every time and be locked out via engine ECU for misreading OEM ECU. Since no OBD2 data stream it make it a little more difficult but not unmanageable.

I got my ethanol sensor installed after redoing my pressure line and installing the sensor. Filled up the truck with e85 and drove it today and I am happy with how it performs.

My OEM tach doesn’t work removing the ignition coil using coil over plug ignition. I have to work that out next.

The fan clutch I bought to use with the supercharger since I didn’t have the kit spacer to use. This fan clutch is hype active and roars a lot more than my oem clutch use to. My oem
Clutch didn’t keep engaged at hi way speeds, this new one does with the ac on in 90-95 ambient temp.

I have removed the clutch and split it, adjusted internally to help this. It’s better, still not quite there. It might require lower viscosity oil too. 80-85 sun sitting its kicks out with no Ac and turn ac on the fan clutch comes in strong while maintaining normal engine temps. The heat inducted via ac it causing the clutch to engage, this is good for the AC, but annoying at hi way speeds. At 192 engine temp, ac off after driving and pull into the shop with fans and ac climate control and hold the throttle 2000 rpm while maintaining 192 engine temp, ac off a
The fan clutch isn’t cutting out. A little more tweaking and I get it how I like it. If the engine temp where to rise some I can see the need to have the fan clutch engaged. Maintaining thermostats temp, that’s a little hyper active.

No other issues on the Parallel system install to report. Cruise works perfectly, if I plug the OEM coil in, the tach will
Work. But can’t have it sparking all over the place.

The hardest issue with the Parallel System was the trigger system sharing it with the OEM ECU. It natively did not work from the base map. I had to involve Haltech on the phone and have them link to my Computer connected to the Haltech.
We worked through that, and got past it.

Every project has it bumps in the road. I seem to be over the bumps now, and enjoying driving it.

Take care

Tex

IMG_9033.jpeg


IMG_9034.jpeg
 
obe12 said:
I have been busy with my Knee Replacement Surgery. The

Walbro 460 Lph Fuel Pump​

I used per recommendation from HD Automotive, draws 15 amp average , 25amps max. I had to run supply lead to the tank and install a fuel pump relay to unload the current from the OEM wiring.

I had to work through the parallel install of Coolant Sensor, it would be easier to install a new coolant sensor in another location, but the dual shared coolant sensor you have to disable the pull up resistor in the Haltech and type in actual temperature valves in the calibration section. I got that done using infrared sensor and start cold, warming up to thermostat operation temperature plus above that and below cold. You can see the curve and interpolate.

Once that was done my OD would work every time and be locked out via engine ECU for misreading OEM ECU. Since no OBD2 data stream it make it a little more difficult but not unmanageable.

I got my ethanol sensor installed after redoing my pressure line and installing the sensor. Filled up the truck with e85 and drove it today and I am happy with how it performs.

My OEM tach doesn’t work removing the ignition coil using coil over plug ignition. I have to work that out next.

The fan clutch I bought to use with the supercharger since I didn’t have the kit spacer to use. This fan clutch is hype active and roars a lot more than my oem clutch use to. My oem
Clutch didn’t keep engaged at hi way speeds, this new one does with the ac on in 90-95 ambient temp.

I have removed the clutch and split it, adjusted internally to help this. It’s better, still not quite there. It might require lower viscosity oil too. 80-85 sun sitting its kicks out with no Ac and turn ac on the fan clutch comes in strong while maintaining normal engine temps. The heat inducted via ac it causing the clutch to engage, this is good for the AC, but annoying at hi way speeds. At 192 engine temp, ac off after driving and pull into the shop with fans and ac climate control and hold the throttle 2000 rpm while maintaining 192 engine temp, ac off a
The fan clutch isn’t cutting out. A little more tweaking and I get it how I like it. If the engine temp where to rise some I can see the need to have the fan clutch engaged. Maintaining thermostats temp, that’s a little hyper active.

No other issues on the Parallel system install to report. Cruise works perfectly, if I plug the OEM coil in, the tach will
Work. But can’t have it sparking all over the place.

The hardest issue with the Parallel System was the trigger system sharing it with the OEM ECU. It natively did not work from the base map. I had to involve Haltech on the phone and have them link to my Computer connected to the Haltech.
We worked through that, and got past it.

Every project has it bumps in the road. I seem to be over the bumps now, and enjoying driving it.

Take care

Tex

View attachment 3662027

View attachment 3662028
Click to expand...
Is that coil over plug conversion off the shelf, or did you build the components yourself?
 
The coil over plug conversion, used Yota coils and HD Automotive mills a bracket to bolt down where plug wire holders and covers attached.

Coils bolt that and they HD Auto provide the harness per OEM ECU or Haltech ECU. I have the Haltech 2500 ECU.

HD auto sales the block off plate for the distributor.
So when you remove the cap, rotor and wires it’s not open.

Assies… they all in on this stuff for Toyotas
 
Oh talk about smooth idle on my gosh, with 875 cc injectors capable of 14 psi turbo of I go that way, but new injectors and this Coil over plug ignition it’s idles 600
Rpm smooth.
 
If you ask why Haltech, well they to be considered the gkld
Standard in Aftermarket ECUs, really programmable great support system.

Have fuel control under boost, feedback from wide band 02, doesn’t go open loop under WOT. That plus knock sensor feedback control. Ofcorse the ECU does a lot more than just those things, but that is a main features. My Haltech system I have two wide band sensors Front and Rear banks. Also has safety features, to program like for instance lean out condition pulls engine back, or like in racing loss of oil pressure shut engine down. Three levels of protection are programmable.

You can go as far as to replace entire instrument cluster with their instrument cluster, of corse a price! Nothing Haltech sales is low priced. Everything is top quality with a price tag connected to it.

My system, designed custom plug and play harness with fly leads from ECU for IAT, Biost controller, Ethanol sensor,
Coil over plug ignition and looking back should have some Coolant sensor but I would have had to mount one custom.
There is a spot in the upper rad hose aluminum connector from head. Right near the bypass hose to radiator is.
But I didn’t do that, used a shared Coolant seasor, that wasn’t hard to configure but is not just plug and play.

I did have to drill and tap an 1/8 hole in the upper intake air plenum for the new IAT sensor to get the most accurate air temp possible.

That’s about that.

Take care

Tex
 
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