TRD Supercharger 1994 80 series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter obe12
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- Thread starter
- #22
Not a stupid question, the oem igniter is there. Yes I was hoping for just that. However when coil
Is connected the ref line to tack, can be picked up at the diagnostic connector on right side firewall, it’s 12 volt sign wave ,that is triggering the tach. Unplug the coil it drops almost out.
This 12 volt wave load unload is what the tach is looking for. I can change the threshold of the tach by changing a resistor on the tach module or use a tach signal booster or conditioner. I was trying to avoid more complexity.
If I could created a dummy load to plug into the harness where the old coil was would be nice. I was thinking a pull up resistor kind of circuit maybe could work. I tried a 10k ohm resistor 1/4 watt messing around and no tach … a 1k ohm was getting hot from to little watt rated resistor for the load.
Now if I disconnect the igniter, use the Haltech directly from one of the SPI I think ports might trigger it. I going to call Haltech today and ask… that exactly question. When they open.
I died
I had this exactly issue on my 22rte to 3.4 v6 swap mini truck in 2001. Resistor change on tach allowed the igniter to trigger the tach, but it had 3 coils in that system.
I am sure either a haltech triggered tach or a resistor change on the tach, or conditioner I can make it work.
Tex
Is connected the ref line to tack, can be picked up at the diagnostic connector on right side firewall, it’s 12 volt sign wave ,that is triggering the tach. Unplug the coil it drops almost out.
This 12 volt wave load unload is what the tach is looking for. I can change the threshold of the tach by changing a resistor on the tach module or use a tach signal booster or conditioner. I was trying to avoid more complexity.
If I could created a dummy load to plug into the harness where the old coil was would be nice. I was thinking a pull up resistor kind of circuit maybe could work. I tried a 10k ohm resistor 1/4 watt messing around and no tach … a 1k ohm was getting hot from to little watt rated resistor for the load.
Now if I disconnect the igniter, use the Haltech directly from one of the SPI I think ports might trigger it. I going to call Haltech today and ask… that exactly question. When they open.
I died
I had this exactly issue on my 22rte to 3.4 v6 swap mini truck in 2001. Resistor change on tach allowed the igniter to trigger the tach, but it had 3 coils in that system.
I am sure either a haltech triggered tach or a resistor change on the tach, or conditioner I can make it work.
Tex
Last edited:
Yes, the Aussies make some good stuff.
So the coil on plug conversion included a harness with flying leads for the Haltech? Talk about making it easy. I have the Elite 2500 myself so I guess the coil on plug conversion is inherently the next mod on the list.
Would you mind sharing your Haltech file for those of us looking to convert to coil on plug?
- Thread starter
- #25
HD Automotive sold me the conversion plug kit. It came optional 1. A or B brand of coil, 2. With oem ECU or aftermarket ECU terminated hardness with Dosch “however you spell it” connector. Haltech plug and play harness I paid to have made custom had the pigtail setup with corresponding connector on it. The Coil kit provided the 2nd half of the connected needed if you built your own harness.
File for Haltech, sure I can… it’s easy setup tho
Through the software. My file will have my configuration and mapping, but when importing you may can only import the needed part.
The block off plate for the distributor is extra, it’s well
Machined and has a finished look.
Their pricing is Aus dollars too.
Email Matt or Max at HD Automotive and they will be very helpful.
Tex
- Thread starter
- #26
1FZ-FE Coil On Plug Kit suitable for FZJ70 FZJ80 FZJ105 Landcruiser - HD Automotive
This is a 1FZ-FE COIL ON PLUG KIT for FZJ70, FZJ80 and FZJ105 series Landcruisers made from laser cut stainless steel.
hdautomotive.com.au
- Thread starter
- #27
1FZ Billet Distributor Cap - Blank Off Cover- HD Automotive
This Billet aluminium distributor cap allows you to clean up your 1FZ engine bay and blank off your redundant distributor once a COP kit is fitted.
hdautomotive.com.au
- Thread starter
- #28
- Thread starter
- #29
What configuration are you running needing a Haltech may I Ask?
I’m running the Wits End turbo. Haltech 2500 with boomslang piggyback harness for transmission control. Considering going coil on plug conversion……it never ends.
- Thread starter
- #31
I was planning a intercooled 14 PSI capable external waste gate with 6boost manifold with stainless 3 inch exhaust system. Then a replacement Air box to plumb the turbo inlet to enclosed filter to fender intake.
I found this Supercharger and couldn’t pass on it. Bought the rest of the stuff if I decide remove Supercharger and go this turbo route.
The intercooling piping looked extremely complex plus a little work forming a J pipe lead off to mate to the new exhaust system..
I never welded stainless before with my tig machine.
Tex
I found this Supercharger and couldn’t pass on it. Bought the rest of the stuff if I decide remove Supercharger and go this turbo route.
The intercooling piping looked extremely complex plus a little work forming a J pipe lead off to mate to the new exhaust system..
I never welded stainless before with my tig machine.
Tex
If you are running e85 you don’t need an intercooler.
- Thread starter
- #33
How do you like that setup? What amount of boost do you run to not create hi IAT temps? I am seeing 100-190 degree temps from the SC now with the IAT in the intake plenum.
Tex
- Thread starter
- #34
If I could get E85 going to from Colorado when I vacation there would be great.
I’m running low boost ~7 psi. I don’t have a dedicated IAT, so it’s reading from the MAF sensor and I’m seeing similar temperatures, but no signs of ping or knock. I’m considering adding meth injection because an intercooler is very difficult with this setup.
I’m happy with the Wits End kit, but it is not very friendly if you want to intercool, my only gripe.
- Thread starter
- #36
Is that because of clock position of the turbo meaning back turned / front parallel to engine?
Or intercool plumbing itself duct plumbing?
I my planning, no experience mimd you use a V clamp turbo on a 6 boost manifold to have twist / clock ability to help with J pipe / intake connections. I was trying to avoid a cone filter on the end of a pipe setup sucking heat from engine compartment. If I could stand the look
Of a snorkel I understand it lowers IAT temps a good bit.
I was really leaning hard for a turbo and still
Am.
Did you mod your engine? Head studs or gasket change or rebuild change of pistons / rods?
Thanks
Tex
Just the positioning of the turbo…really, meth injection would probably be sufficient if I’m looking at going no higher than10psi. The engine is stock, with really low mileage. In stock configuration, the 1FZ is more than equipped for 10psi IMO.
- Thread starter
- #38
My engine is stock at 247000 original miles. Bore scope inspection looks good, and ripe for a head gasket issue.
I have in stock an oem head gasket set… with ARP head studs.
My plan determine how I like this setup with the SC is it good enough or take it off sell it and go Turbo route. But remove the engine and freshen it up, do a surface cut in the head, valve job, guides as needed, new valve seals and valve adjustment.
Hope the block mics out good enough for just new rings and pistons are reusable. Inspect/ mic the crank. Lite polish the crank hopefully and go back OEM rings and bearings. With their plus min sizing I could close up some clearance is need be. Replace the oil pump and timing components and reseal the engine. Now I know the engine and can feel
Comfortable driving it to Colorado 750-1000 miles one way and not have to worry is today the day the head gasket blows!
I have all the OEM coolant hoses including by pass hoses. I do not have the rear heater ones. They appear to be straight hose in the sections and possibly use good HD 1/2 inch hose as replacements. Bought metal T’s for the heater lines, water pump and thermostat. It has a new fan clutch and new 4 row all aluminum radiator. So the coolant system should be in good shape. I bought 1st reman starter and alternator for it already installed. I may freshen the transmission as the same time go back all new clutches and lip seals. It appears it’s easier to lift the engine with the trans out as a unit then try and pull just the engine.
I have located a new yota short block that can be ordered for 3800 bucks if I need to go down that path.
If my block and crank need machine work I may just go that route. I like this truck, it’s a spare driver to my 100
sc 1999 Landcruiser I drive daily or my 04 runner V8.
This 80 is clean, original single stage white paint with good sheen, no paint work ever, no wrecks and no rust. Interior 9
Out of 10, paint 9 out of 10, so I have a keeper. Purchased from an owner that had it 8 years impeccable service records.
I did a 2 inch Ironman lift and love the want it rides and handles. Want those Ironman Foam Shocks on my 100!
Installed drawers and new slee front and rear bumpers.
Whatever, Sc or turbo I end up with with a fresh engine I plan to drive it until I can’t anymore.
Anyway, just my adventure in this project and long term
Plans. If I stay supercharged, it will get Heeder with complete exhaust system or new stainless 3 inch if Turbo…
I am this exhaust is creating restrictions…
Trying to keep it Yota as I can as much as possible.
When I ordered my Boomslang harness, I asked to have the extras added, boost, IAT, coil over plug, ethanol pigtails to add these features.
If you go IAT, it not hard to setup the Haltech for that.
And ignore your MAF. I also use internal MAP and not MAF too.
The place I drilled the intake plentum was right after the brake booster fitting. There is a machined flat spot there. Getting manifold off is not that bad, three of the back bolt/nuts are accessible from underneath. I removed my starter for easier access.
Tex
I have in stock an oem head gasket set… with ARP head studs.
My plan determine how I like this setup with the SC is it good enough or take it off sell it and go Turbo route. But remove the engine and freshen it up, do a surface cut in the head, valve job, guides as needed, new valve seals and valve adjustment.
Hope the block mics out good enough for just new rings and pistons are reusable. Inspect/ mic the crank. Lite polish the crank hopefully and go back OEM rings and bearings. With their plus min sizing I could close up some clearance is need be. Replace the oil pump and timing components and reseal the engine. Now I know the engine and can feel
Comfortable driving it to Colorado 750-1000 miles one way and not have to worry is today the day the head gasket blows!
I have all the OEM coolant hoses including by pass hoses. I do not have the rear heater ones. They appear to be straight hose in the sections and possibly use good HD 1/2 inch hose as replacements. Bought metal T’s for the heater lines, water pump and thermostat. It has a new fan clutch and new 4 row all aluminum radiator. So the coolant system should be in good shape. I bought 1st reman starter and alternator for it already installed. I may freshen the transmission as the same time go back all new clutches and lip seals. It appears it’s easier to lift the engine with the trans out as a unit then try and pull just the engine.
I have located a new yota short block that can be ordered for 3800 bucks if I need to go down that path.
If my block and crank need machine work I may just go that route. I like this truck, it’s a spare driver to my 100
sc 1999 Landcruiser I drive daily or my 04 runner V8.
This 80 is clean, original single stage white paint with good sheen, no paint work ever, no wrecks and no rust. Interior 9
Out of 10, paint 9 out of 10, so I have a keeper. Purchased from an owner that had it 8 years impeccable service records.
I did a 2 inch Ironman lift and love the want it rides and handles. Want those Ironman Foam Shocks on my 100!
Installed drawers and new slee front and rear bumpers.
Whatever, Sc or turbo I end up with with a fresh engine I plan to drive it until I can’t anymore.
Anyway, just my adventure in this project and long term
Plans. If I stay supercharged, it will get Heeder with complete exhaust system or new stainless 3 inch if Turbo…
I am this exhaust is creating restrictions…
Trying to keep it Yota as I can as much as possible.
When I ordered my Boomslang harness, I asked to have the extras added, boost, IAT, coil over plug, ethanol pigtails to add these features.
If you go IAT, it not hard to setup the Haltech for that.
And ignore your MAF. I also use internal MAP and not MAF too.
The place I drilled the intake plentum was right after the brake booster fitting. There is a machined flat spot there. Getting manifold off is not that bad, three of the back bolt/nuts are accessible from underneath. I removed my starter for easier access.
Tex
FMC80
SILVER Star
This is so freaking rad. Well done; you keep a clean engine bay. What else have you done to the 80?
- Thread starter
- #40
Besides the TRD supercharger I posted if you search my posts the bumpers and drawers, plus a lift. I finished my Kenwood high end head dvd wireless apply car play install with Alpine S series soeakers and R series amp. Disconnected all factored speakers and removed the oem sub. Working out a sub replacement and think I have something in mind for that. All new brake slotted dimpled rotors, new calipers, stainless steel brake hoses , and master cylinder. Should be lost on that too.
This post is more about the TRD supercharger… with turbo possibilities.
Yeah I try and keep it clean under the hood made it look deliberate if all possible.
Thanks
Tex
