FMC80
SILVER Star
Right on, there’s only a handful of people that I know who’ve supercharged OBD1 cruisers. I bet the difference is unreal. My 94 is fun to drive despite it taking a while to get up to speed.
TRD Supercharger 1994 80 series
- Thread starter obe12
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
4x8 sheet of plywood pushing through the air / two business days to get to 80 kinda thing… and we love them.
Some swap LS engines and trans, personally if I wanted a Chev I buy one. I owed chevs in the 80-90’s and switch to yota 1992 haven’t looked back.
So how to make these perform and stay together… that’s the real trick. Good fuel control is a must… OBD1 doesn’t have that, why Haltech. These forklift inline engines where the 1FZ came from, are low rpm torque engines and operated that fashion last a long time, people that rebuild them find crank makes standard, block has x hatch and light scoring. Oil changed and air filter contribute to that wear and age.
Speed limit changed back from 55 to 70-75 and these were engineered for that speed for daily operation. We say let’s go bigger tires, ok now lift , each item adds more drag. We then wonder why these 6 cylinders are not good enough any more compared to newer cars designed for 70-75 mph.
So we are left with modifications of these… some LS swap, some turbo, some supercharge, others Yota v8 swaps.
I find if I drive it 55 the way it was intended it performs perfectly. However in Texas that is a death sentence on the hiway!
As many have learned, veer away from oem yota parts issues can arise. So now what mods are required to Supercharge or Turbo these older engines.
1. Precise fuel control
2. Upgrades to fuel injection / injectors and fuel pump
3. O2 wideband montering a must if Forced air to keep it safe
4. Good cooling , force more power makes more heat
5. Headgasket has shown with age and miles they are the chip
In the armor and can let go.
Transmissions are Asian and built internally well. Needle bearing, and bushings compared to plastic in others. As any mechanical thing there are exceptions, but my experience since 92 has been they hold up well. Drain plugs are provided in the pan if people would use them. Again use proper fluids, can’t stress enough fluid isn’t fluid here… I personally use oem fluids everywhere I can. Same goes for the trans. Some manufacturers add additives in their fluids / friction modifiers for example and don’t use their fluid on a transmission oil change creates trans clutch shutters and have See it several times. Others trans clutch in converters come apart and clog filter like 2001 Honda I bought for cheap and fixed the transmission myself.
Off topic but These Yotas are still going… there is a reason for that.
I wonder if , you can get a 2UZ VVTI engine to run with an A442 transmission? With a haltech you might can… if you can mate the two together and work out the throttle cable for the transmission, v8 bell housing, and torque converter.
Or 2UZ VVTI with 5 speed transmission and make the shifter work for the 5 speed.
More possible 2UZ VVTI with a343 with a Haltech is more likely …
Just thinking
Tex
Some swap LS engines and trans, personally if I wanted a Chev I buy one. I owed chevs in the 80-90’s and switch to yota 1992 haven’t looked back.
So how to make these perform and stay together… that’s the real trick. Good fuel control is a must… OBD1 doesn’t have that, why Haltech. These forklift inline engines where the 1FZ came from, are low rpm torque engines and operated that fashion last a long time, people that rebuild them find crank makes standard, block has x hatch and light scoring. Oil changed and air filter contribute to that wear and age.
Speed limit changed back from 55 to 70-75 and these were engineered for that speed for daily operation. We say let’s go bigger tires, ok now lift , each item adds more drag. We then wonder why these 6 cylinders are not good enough any more compared to newer cars designed for 70-75 mph.
So we are left with modifications of these… some LS swap, some turbo, some supercharge, others Yota v8 swaps.
I find if I drive it 55 the way it was intended it performs perfectly. However in Texas that is a death sentence on the hiway!
As many have learned, veer away from oem yota parts issues can arise. So now what mods are required to Supercharge or Turbo these older engines.
1. Precise fuel control
2. Upgrades to fuel injection / injectors and fuel pump
3. O2 wideband montering a must if Forced air to keep it safe
4. Good cooling , force more power makes more heat
5. Headgasket has shown with age and miles they are the chip
In the armor and can let go.
Transmissions are Asian and built internally well. Needle bearing, and bushings compared to plastic in others. As any mechanical thing there are exceptions, but my experience since 92 has been they hold up well. Drain plugs are provided in the pan if people would use them. Again use proper fluids, can’t stress enough fluid isn’t fluid here… I personally use oem fluids everywhere I can. Same goes for the trans. Some manufacturers add additives in their fluids / friction modifiers for example and don’t use their fluid on a transmission oil change creates trans clutch shutters and have See it several times. Others trans clutch in converters come apart and clog filter like 2001 Honda I bought for cheap and fixed the transmission myself.
Off topic but These Yotas are still going… there is a reason for that.
I wonder if , you can get a 2UZ VVTI engine to run with an A442 transmission? With a haltech you might can… if you can mate the two together and work out the throttle cable for the transmission, v8 bell housing, and torque converter.
Or 2UZ VVTI with 5 speed transmission and make the shifter work for the 5 speed.
More possible 2UZ VVTI with a343 with a Haltech is more likely …
Just thinking
Tex
- Thread starter
- #43
I like to research more on the Meth injection. Obviously lower intake temps is better, now the feasibility of it. How long would tank last ect …
Some that use it please share !
Tex
- Thread starter
- #44
Now that I got it running and driving it needs some dyno time to tune the engine. Tweak the timing and fuel …. My tachometer correction device arrived and time to work that out.
The waste gate is kinda close to the exhaust manifold shield.
I may make another shield to help shield the heat away from the waste gate itself.
Has anyone else seen this on the TRD Sc version ?
The waste gate is kinda close to the exhaust manifold shield.
I may make another shield to help shield the heat away from the waste gate itself.
Has anyone else seen this on the TRD Sc version ?
- Thread starter
- #45
This is part of the original Thread of Supercharger install with Haltech. My internal tach is not working. If plug in my original coil it will. Haltech is not to blame, but my Coil over plug conversion is. My tach is requiring more than 19 volts trigger because I tried a DakotaDigital Tach / Speedo fixer today.
Nice product, knowledgeable tech support.
Haltech can be configured to send out 5-12 volt square wave signal Via DPO and have pull up resistor option if needed.
That itsself will not trigger my old tach. The DakotaDigital can accept that signal and replicate how my cylinder out you want. Like 6 in 8 out or 8 in 6 out and correct tach rpm’s too if needed. However my tach is signaled from an old style ignition coil up loading and causing a spike in voltage as it happens. I left with modifying my tach itself or possibly use a tach booster. I have ordered a booster which requires 5-12 volt square wave input signal and replicates coil unloading like stock ignition system to drive the tach.
Hopefully a 30 buck part will cure my issue. Haltech has a similar items 85.00 plus 20 shipping cost.
Tex
Nice product, knowledgeable tech support.
Haltech can be configured to send out 5-12 volt square wave signal Via DPO and have pull up resistor option if needed.
That itsself will not trigger my old tach. The DakotaDigital can accept that signal and replicate how my cylinder out you want. Like 6 in 8 out or 8 in 6 out and correct tach rpm’s too if needed. However my tach is signaled from an old style ignition coil up loading and causing a spike in voltage as it happens. I left with modifying my tach itself or possibly use a tach booster. I have ordered a booster which requires 5-12 volt square wave input signal and replicates coil unloading like stock ignition system to drive the tach.
Hopefully a 30 buck part will cure my issue. Haltech has a similar items 85.00 plus 20 shipping cost.
Tex
- Thread starter
- #46
Just to update: Haltech parallel system with OEM Toyota ECU and Auto Trans ECU. Using the internal map sensor used on Haltech and external new Haltech IAT sensor installed in Intake plenum. This is on OBD1 systems with Van Airflow Meter “flapper style” the Van airflow meter can be left disconnected and the transmission will shift perfectly.
Note: the Fuel Pump “opening circuit relay” will not close unless you jump a two terminals in the connector to activate the opening circuit relay to run the fuel pump. This is not the preferred way, because pump runs with key “on” engine off this way. The proper way, change wiring so that Haltech pulls this circuit to ground to trigger the opening circuit relay when the engine running. The cranking is already provided through a separate circuit in the opening circuit relay. This way is preferred if you where to wreck out the fuel pump would shut down when engine stops.
This requires a wiring modification to make this happen. Boomslang provided this circuit to me by request and heat shrinked the end of the wire anticipating me doing the modification. I physically have to make the connection to the opening circuit relay myself, since OBD1 with flapper van style air flow meter doesn’t run the circuit to the OEM ECU. It however is in the engine bay harness through the firewall interconnected to the body harness.
Just want to make these details known if someone else travels this same path.
Possible Some 95 and 96 newer OBD2 system are Different! There are some wiring differences between the OBD1 systems.
Now I can ditch the restrictive van air flow meter after I modify the wiring and configure the Haltech.
I can only Hope this helps others that have the 94 1FE ZE engine OBD1 systems.
Take care
Tex
Note: the Fuel Pump “opening circuit relay” will not close unless you jump a two terminals in the connector to activate the opening circuit relay to run the fuel pump. This is not the preferred way, because pump runs with key “on” engine off this way. The proper way, change wiring so that Haltech pulls this circuit to ground to trigger the opening circuit relay when the engine running. The cranking is already provided through a separate circuit in the opening circuit relay. This way is preferred if you where to wreck out the fuel pump would shut down when engine stops.
This requires a wiring modification to make this happen. Boomslang provided this circuit to me by request and heat shrinked the end of the wire anticipating me doing the modification. I physically have to make the connection to the opening circuit relay myself, since OBD1 with flapper van style air flow meter doesn’t run the circuit to the OEM ECU. It however is in the engine bay harness through the firewall interconnected to the body harness.
Just want to make these details known if someone else travels this same path.
Possible Some 95 and 96 newer OBD2 system are Different! There are some wiring differences between the OBD1 systems.
Now I can ditch the restrictive van air flow meter after I modify the wiring and configure the Haltech.
I can only Hope this helps others that have the 94 1FE ZE engine OBD1 systems.
Take care
Tex
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- Thread starter
- #47
Follow up to OEM Tach with COP conversion with Haltech.
My oem would not work without the Regular ignition coils plugged in. Being I was Parallel the oem ECU still triggered the old coil system that I eventually removed.
1. Tried DakotaDigital fixer box. It claims ro fix tach for engine swaps like 6-8 and speedo errors. Nope not a strong enough signal to trigger the tach. Ok, possibly tach booster from Haltech 85.00 and then 20 more shipping, that got to me and ordered another like product. Nope no good. Contacted their support and feels a defective unit and sending another.
In the meantime I am growing impatient, I have a power supply and tach tester system to drive tachs. I setup a bench removed my tach from the cluster and here we go.
1st tach tester is spiking on my oscilloscope above 70 volts as would a coil unloading would and tach works!
Now low signal on the tach tester nope no tach. It’s battery voltage square wave with a spike.
I have a box that switches in resistors I clamped leads on the input resistor on both sides, measuring the signal in and through this resister. Switch tach signal to low and took my switcher resistor box started 400k , 300k 200k 100K tach started working but at higher revs cutting out on the tester. Settled down to 70k kept the tach working across all the ranges.
Ok, now went to truck, enabled tacho signal 12 volt pull to low on Haltech started truck, nope no tach, lower resistance some more at 36k tach working and cut out higher rpm.
Created a short across zero Omhs and turned the output down , below 8 volts tach quit working.
Raised it back to 12 and settled on 7k ohm resistor to use
Nothing close so I went 5.6k ohms and solder it in.
Retested works !
My tach will now work via ECU enabled out 12 volt pull to ground via Haltech.
Tex
My oem would not work without the Regular ignition coils plugged in. Being I was Parallel the oem ECU still triggered the old coil system that I eventually removed.
1. Tried DakotaDigital fixer box. It claims ro fix tach for engine swaps like 6-8 and speedo errors. Nope not a strong enough signal to trigger the tach. Ok, possibly tach booster from Haltech 85.00 and then 20 more shipping, that got to me and ordered another like product. Nope no good. Contacted their support and feels a defective unit and sending another.
In the meantime I am growing impatient, I have a power supply and tach tester system to drive tachs. I setup a bench removed my tach from the cluster and here we go.
1st tach tester is spiking on my oscilloscope above 70 volts as would a coil unloading would and tach works!
Now low signal on the tach tester nope no tach. It’s battery voltage square wave with a spike.
I have a box that switches in resistors I clamped leads on the input resistor on both sides, measuring the signal in and through this resister. Switch tach signal to low and took my switcher resistor box started 400k , 300k 200k 100K tach started working but at higher revs cutting out on the tester. Settled down to 70k kept the tach working across all the ranges.
Ok, now went to truck, enabled tacho signal 12 volt pull to low on Haltech started truck, nope no tach, lower resistance some more at 36k tach working and cut out higher rpm.
Created a short across zero Omhs and turned the output down , below 8 volts tach quit working.
Raised it back to 12 and settled on 7k ohm resistor to use
Nothing close so I went 5.6k ohms and solder it in.
Retested works !
My tach will now work via ECU enabled out 12 volt pull to ground via Haltech.
Tex
- Thread starter
- #48
Here on the truck
wow dude, you went all out. If you're ever around Cypress hit me up, would love to see that beast 80 in person
- Thread starter
- #50
Here it is in back in the instrument cluster with new clear lens ..in the truck idling.
I didn’t want to mod the tech, but with the new clear lens and I went ahead to sorted out the resistor change needed. Kinda double two stone trow, fix my tach and run Haltech Harnesses.
Glad it working now I can put my truck together and finish it up.
I pulled the dash actually to run new Haltech Harness cross side along OEM harness. Not that much work once the instrument cluster is out really.
I Set the instrument cluster in, plugged it up tested engine started.
Got to screw it all back together… and put the panels back.
I didn’t want the Haltech exiting the firewall on the passenger side and have still have access to the Haltech with a notebook if needed without panel removal. Also have to cross the engine to plug in stuff, like Coils, IAT, Ethanol, so it had a firewall penetration on the drivers side and I used ot
For the extra harness leads except the Wideband. I ran that pigtail along side the main engine harness inside on passenger side. The CanBus cable crosses inside to the ECU and controller for the Wideband is on the right. 2 screw glove box removal access if ever a need.
Took dedication to make this wiring look deliberate and keep a clean under good appearance and avoid chaffing.
Anyway that how I did it… many would not have. Time and money …
Thanks
Tex
I didn’t want to mod the tech, but with the new clear lens and I went ahead to sorted out the resistor change needed. Kinda double two stone trow, fix my tach and run Haltech Harnesses.
Glad it working now I can put my truck together and finish it up.
I pulled the dash actually to run new Haltech Harness cross side along OEM harness. Not that much work once the instrument cluster is out really.
I Set the instrument cluster in, plugged it up tested engine started.
Got to screw it all back together… and put the panels back.
I didn’t want the Haltech exiting the firewall on the passenger side and have still have access to the Haltech with a notebook if needed without panel removal. Also have to cross the engine to plug in stuff, like Coils, IAT, Ethanol, so it had a firewall penetration on the drivers side and I used ot
For the extra harness leads except the Wideband. I ran that pigtail along side the main engine harness inside on passenger side. The CanBus cable crosses inside to the ECU and controller for the Wideband is on the right. 2 screw glove box removal access if ever a need.
Took dedication to make this wiring look deliberate and keep a clean under good appearance and avoid chaffing.
Anyway that how I did it… many would not have. Time and money …
Thanks
Tex
What's the situation with the s/c crank pulley--would you have a P/N on that?
- Thread starter
- #52
TEX - any chance you have the schematic for the vac lines from the supercharger to the throttle body? My 93 is giving me grief and I think it is a vac issue.
- Thread starter
- #54
I am sorry for the late response,
Your 93, is yours the 4.5 L and far as vacuum lines send me a pic of yours and I do
Some comparison. You have a Super charger ? Which one?
I remember two lines come to mind from the intake plenum to the area where the throttle plate mounts. Capping one one since my supercharger is blocking the port to the other body.
Need to mention, I did not plumb in the coolant lines to the throttle body, why you might ask, added heat to the induction that is all ready be compressed and temp rises as you do that and take away HP. Depending on climate areas this may not be needed. We normally do not see below 20 F here and feel the need for the warmer intake air needed.
Take care
Tex
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