Transmission Flush?

[Hugga99]

Hey everyone.

I have read a bunch about the transmission fluid replacement, and most seem to prefer using Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.

Took my LX470 to my local shop, the guy mainly works on Cruisers, and certainly seems to know his stuff. He uses a BG machine, with a blend that has additives. The machine does a complete flush. He says it is good stuff.

I have read some people saying that this works well, some to only use synthetic w/ no additives. I am wondering if anyone has specific experience having their 100 series flushed with a BG system/fluid.

I told him to hold off, for now, as I could not find anyone with a 100 using this. It is also $260, so I want to be sure it is the right move.

 

[camino70]

I have an unsubstantiated opinion, pass.

 

[Hugga99]

Haha. I know there has been a lot of back and forth. The only specific info on the BG system, that I found, was in the 80 series forums.

 

[BullElk]

If I was going to give my opinion, I would say do not do any transmission flush . If the fluid is up to level and smells right, leave it alone. But I will pass as well.

 

[SWUtah]

NO!!! FLUSH!!! Just do a fluid "exchange" using Toyota recommended fluid. Unless you want to end up buying a new transmission

 

[Hugga99]

Yea, they said the fluid was a bit dirty, but that is all. Level was fine, did not smell burnt.

I have read a few people who said definetly "new fluid is better than old", but so many swear by not flushing it. Maybe I will flip a quarter (joke).

 

[camino70]

For the money, do a fluid exchange now and again next year and the next year.

 

[TheForger]

From what I understand about flushes (engine, transmission, etc..) if a high-pressure system is used to do it, you run the chance of it actually knocking debris loose and having it jam in places you don't want it. This can cause serious problems and may require you to buy a new transmission. With that big of a risk I would say just stick with exchanging fluids. No harm in that.

 

[Newps]

I took a Home Depot orange bucket. Filled it with one quart of water, marked a line on the bucket. Repeat 2, 3, 4...etc, until you have 10 quarts marked on it. Every oil change I dump the ATF in the transmission pan into the orange bucket. It's usually around 5 and a half quarts. I replace whatever was dumped back in through the transmission dip stick. It's very easy to do and your fluid will always be good. For you to replace all the fluid it would take five of these. It's very simple and there is no chance of hurting your transmission. I would do this each week for a month and you will have fresh ATF.

 

[ihadmail]

NO!!! FLUSH!!! Just do a fluid "exchange" using Toyota recommended fluid. Unless you want to end up buying a new transmission

This!!!!! I work part time in my friends shop, he stands to make a lot of money by doing flushes and then rebuilding or replacing the transmissions after they quickly fail. He doesn't own a flush machine because that's not the kind of shop he runs. When people request one he explains the dangers/damages to them and then tells them if they insist on a flush the will need to find a shadier shop.

 

[Hugga99]

I'll try the drain and fill method. My shop is a pretty solid one, and they do service ALOT of Cruisers.

The guy said that the flush works really well, with the BG Machine. I don't think it drains it, just gradually fills it until it is all new fluid.

He did say, that I can do it now, but if I were to wait too long, then he would recommend against it. Obviously, that is because he feels I would then be running the risk of loosening debris, if it built up too much.

 

[ihadmail]

The issue with a true flush is the chemicals. The chemicals used to clean the transmission during the flush are very bars for the seals in the transmission. The chemicals used are very harsh on the bands in the transmission. They are very harsh on the clutches in the transmission.


If your friends machine can do a fluid exchange without any detergents, cleaners or chemicals other than ATF then it's not much chance of damage.

 

[2001LC]

I had my transmission flush by Dealer, which used BG machine & additive, at about 60K miles. But I did notice shift points during normal driving, not bad just noticeable. BG is good stuff, but I like M1 better.

At 90K miles I DIY flush using 18qt of MI full synthetic MV ATF. System only takes 12qt, I was just wasteful (at ~$10qt it gets pricy). Now I flush ~ every 15K miles with 12qt. I really like how the transmission shift during normal driving now, as I don't notices any of the shift points.

I make sure I'm at full mark when transmission really hot. FSM recommend checking at normal operating temp, when transmission hasn't been run hard. FSM also states let cool down a bit before checking if run hard. But with M1 it is so hard to get that stuff to expand (hot), I bend the guideline and get as hot as I can. Then top to hot line on the dip stick. This way I know I'm never over filled, even in hottest condition.

Keep in mind I have a 2001, which is the dex III fluid. If yours use WS (03-07 IIRC) fluid it may or may not be a good idea to use M1, IDK. Do your homework before the first drop is added.

M1 really works well in power steering as well. I'm going to start do that every 5k with oil change. Keeps pump to a low sweet hum.

Note: M1 AFT has a slightly higher viscosity (thicker), which will cost just a tin bit off MPG. But it's worth it.