Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) full 12qt flush & set level, 100 series. (1 Viewer)

[excessive]

well shoot. I bought some Toyota ATF-IV for my 1998 (have not put it in yet) and now I am thinking that this is not the best fluid to use. from this thread , it sounds like I need to get Toyota ATF-III instead. The part # for that is supposed to be 00718ATF00, but it says discontinued. I guess I will be moving over to Mobil as suggested by @2001LC

 

[rexington14]

Maybe this is already answered but could you completely skip draining the pan? And just jump to the steps of exchanging the fluid through the hoses?

 

[2001LC]

well shoot. I bought some Toyota ATF-IV for my 1998 (have not put it in yet) and now I am thinking that this is not the best fluid to use. from this thread , it sounds like I need to get Toyota ATF-III instead. The part # for that is supposed to be 00718ATF00, but it says discontinued. I guess I will be moving over to Mobil as suggested by @2001LC

Based On TSB posted in page #1 of this thread. T-IV is not a replacement for Dexron II or III. Which Dexron II or III is recommended in OM of 98-02.
I'd use Mobil 1. I love that stuff and would use in all, if it was rated for T-IV and WS. It's not.

Maybe this is already answered but could you completely skip draining the pan? And just jump to the steps of exchanging the fluid through the hoses?

Most shops with fluid exchange machine, do not drain & fill pan first. They use only 12 qts. or less. Why; fast and easy. But not best practice.

Draining and fill pan first. Gets the best results. Why? Pick-up screen/tube, is in pan. From there it goes through entire AT system (transmission & torque convert), before heading to AFT cooling system and then back to pan.

It would take about 18 qts, to get close to as good as: 12 qts, with draining pan & filling pan first.

 

[Njck22]

well shoot. I bought some Toyota ATF-IV for my 1998 (have not put it in yet) and now I am thinking that this is not the best fluid to use. from this thread , it sounds like I need to get Toyota ATF-III instead. The part # for that is supposed to be 00718ATF00, but it says discontinued. I guess I will be moving over to Mobil as suggested by @2001LC

It should be available, however many online stores will not ship liquids. Maybe try the local dealer?

 

[2001LC]

So , is there any downside to just using the return hose to refill instead of taking the side plug out?
Just seems like less hassle and it's right there when you set up your catch bucket.

None that I know of. It is where ATF exchange machine hook in.

Will new fluid just flow in via a funnel or does it need to be pumped in.

I've never tried using just a funnel, to pour into ATF cooler return hose. My guess, it would flow.

I'll give it a try, after draining pan. I'll pour in 1 qt., measuring what comes out of pan's drain plug, as I do.

So I did try, just pouring ATF into return hose, this last week. Via a ATF funnel adapted to return hose. It was too slow. You may have different results!

Here's how I ran the gravity fill test:
I empty AT pan first, letting pan drain for ~45 minutes. Getting 3.5qt out of a 1999 LX. (It was still dripping a bit)
I did not put drain plug back in, for the test.
I then poured ~0.2 qt, clean fluid in funnel attached to return hose (engine off).
~0.2 qt came out pan, about a fast as went in. It was, a bit dirty. Likely picking up some old ATF from return hose, path into AT pan and bottom of pan. I did not use more clean fluid. As would have left me short of fluid for my flush. It also went slow enough, I knew what I wanted to know. So had no need to waste more.

I used a few different sizes of clear hose, to adapt return hose ID to my ATF funnel. The hose used first, was only 4" long. It was the same size clear hose, I run to 2 gallon catch bucket (Seen in: pictures in post #1).

It difficult to say, how much if any. The smallest adapt hose, may have slowed the fill. I don't think it was holding back the fluid flow into return line. I would have to make, a thinner walled adapter. Perhaps a thin wall metal pipe, to see if gravity feed though larger ID adapter hose, makes any difference in flow rate.

The set-up I have seen work. Uses a pump, to pump into return hose:
I'd want a 3 gallon vessel pump. Where output is controllable, by flow amount and pressure. Using no more flow or pressure, then AT is pumps out.

The range of pumps, runs from a hand pump to a fluid exchange machine.

We'd not want any more flow or pressure, than that of AT fluid cooler system operates at.
Other consideration are:

• Space: 5' of clear hose, take almost no storage space. Pump or exchange machine, take a great deal more storage space.

Cost:

• 5' of hose is ~$5 and readily available at hardware store.
• Pumps: $100 to $500, not readily available.
• Exchange machine, using vehicle ATF pump to control flow and pressure. $1,000 to $5,000.
• How often used to justify time and cost.

I dream of storage room for

 

[Nightbrew]

@2001LC Paul, could you explain it like I'm five, how the method you described doesn't mix the new fluid that you putting in via the dipstick tube, with old fluid that resides in the transmission? It seems like the two fluids would just mix together. Thanks in advance

 

[2001LC]

Pick-up tube is in the pan. Fluid, travels from pick-up, throughout the AT system, on its way to cooler. Try it, you'll like it!

 

[Nightbrew]

Pick-up tube is in the pan. Travel from pick-up, throughout the AT system, on way to cooler. Try it, you'll like it!

Thanks. So there really isn't much chance for the old and the new fluids to mingle.

 

[2001LC]

Draining & filling pan first, is key. I fill the AT pan, with flesh ATF. As soon as I stop draining from it into my catch can, and torque (15ft-lbf) in the drain plug. Why: ATF, keeps slowly dripping, entering pan, if less than ~3 qts in pan.

Understand: We don't get 100% of any (brake, oil, gear lube, coolant, AHC, washer) fluid out.

If one was to do, 3 full 12 qt ATF flushes, drive ~100 miles between each. We get ~99.8%