Think real hard before you do a power flush. There are more then a few threads here on mud about members who did a power flush, and then ended up with all kinds of problems with their trans.
Transmission fluid change ??
- Thread starter Deltron
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Ya Phil, my truck has the bus transmission.
Correct I removed the drain plug. Then then the pan. Then the filter. CHanged filter. Put back together. And added 7 qts.
Ohh got ya
I pulled the plug on my 96 fzj80 and only got 3.5 quarts out. And it was full (slightly over). Before I did the drain.
Why did I get so little.? Why is everyone else getting 6 qt. Out?
BTW I did not drop the pan. Only the plug drain method.
Why did I get so little.? Why is everyone else getting 6 qt. Out?
BTW I did not drop the pan. Only the plug drain method.
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I performed 7 drain and fills (FZJ80 with A343F) over the course of maybe 1500 miles and got out around 3 1/2 quarts each time.
Only reasons I can think of for less could be: the transmission was actually underfilled, you measured wrong, or you put the drain plug back in too soon??
I've never gotten 6 quarts out of a A343F/FZJ80 from a drain and fill.
Either way, IMHO, I would do at least a few more drain and fills
(and maybe pour a couple of quarts straight through) to help wash out the particles stirred up by the first drain and fill.
Be sure to use a new crush washer every time the drain plug is removed and be very careful not to overtighten the drain plug.
Edit:
A complete fluid exchange is definitely a more efficient use of time compared to mulitple drain and fills.
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Only reasons I can think of for less could be: the transmission was actually underfilled, you measured wrong, or you put the drain plug back in too soon??
I've never gotten 6 quarts out of a A343F/FZJ80 from a drain and fill.
Either way, IMHO, I would do at least a few more drain and fills
(and maybe pour a couple of quarts straight through) to help wash out the particles stirred up by the first drain and fill.
Be sure to use a new crush washer every time the drain plug is removed and be very careful not to overtighten the drain plug.
Edit:
A complete fluid exchange is definitely a more efficient use of time compared to mulitple drain and fills.
Transmission oil analysis and particle counts
Long post so take a pee, clean the sand out of your eyes, get something non-alcoholic to drink, get in a comfortable chair. My goal is not to convince people of the "best" way to change your transmsision fluid, just wanted to share my results and thoughts based on the data. About a year ago I...
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I have done this a few times and I usually use almost an entire 5 gallon bucket of ATF to change the fluid. I use the Rodney Flush method. Dropping the pan and putting in a few liters of new fluid is not the way to change out the fluid in your transmission.
I use a bucket pump and clear hose on each of the cooler lines coming from the truck. Run the lines over a piece of white card so you can can see the difference in fluid color. Hook the bucket pump with a full pail of ATF to the return line from the cooler and put the other into an empty bucket.
Start up the truck in neutral and begin pumping. When the color is the same in the two lines the fluid has been exchanged. Turn the engine off and hook the cooler lines back up and fill to mark in neutral with the engine restarted. This is the only way to get all of the fluid exchanged in the torque converter. As I mentioned it usually takes about 16-17 liters to complete.
I use a bucket pump and clear hose on each of the cooler lines coming from the truck. Run the lines over a piece of white card so you can can see the difference in fluid color. Hook the bucket pump with a full pail of ATF to the return line from the cooler and put the other into an empty bucket.
Start up the truck in neutral and begin pumping. When the color is the same in the two lines the fluid has been exchanged. Turn the engine off and hook the cooler lines back up and fill to mark in neutral with the engine restarted. This is the only way to get all of the fluid exchanged in the torque converter. As I mentioned it usually takes about 16-17 liters to complete.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
I had a little time before work, so I decided to try the Rodney flush. It worked great!
1) Used a bucket from Home Depot that was already graduated (quarts/gallons/liters), a long funnel, and some 3/8” ID clear tubing. I placed a tarp on the ground before I got started.
2) Removed the grill, removed the top tube that Connects to the trans cooler, and connected the clear tubing. Secure with a clamp.
3) Secure the other end of the clear tube to the bucket. Start the engine and the ATF will flow about a gallon every 20 seconds.
4) I removed and replaced a gallon of ATF at a time. I shifted through the gears as well. It was initially very dark red, but after 3 gallons, it looked like Robitussin. That’s when I stopped. Maybe one day I’ll drop the pan and replace even more ATF, but the Rodney method is so easy and clean, and replaces more fluid than a simple drain and fill.
1) Used a bucket from Home Depot that was already graduated (quarts/gallons/liters), a long funnel, and some 3/8” ID clear tubing. I placed a tarp on the ground before I got started.
2) Removed the grill, removed the top tube that Connects to the trans cooler, and connected the clear tubing. Secure with a clamp.
3) Secure the other end of the clear tube to the bucket. Start the engine and the ATF will flow about a gallon every 20 seconds.
4) I removed and replaced a gallon of ATF at a time. I shifted through the gears as well. It was initially very dark red, but after 3 gallons, it looked like Robitussin. That’s when I stopped. Maybe one day I’ll drop the pan and replace even more ATF, but the Rodney method is so easy and clean, and replaces more fluid than a simple drain and fill.
Thanks for the photographs, Tachycardic! They are very helpful. I'm about to tackle this project. Could you clarify one thing for me?
1. Run the vehicle for 20 seconds...drain about a gallon of old fluid
2. Add a gallon of ATF through the transmission dipstick tube
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 two more times.
So, there is no effort needed to drain at the transmission drain plug, correct?
Thanks!
By looking at his photos, and reading what he wrote that would be correct.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
No, I didn't touch the transmission plug.
Agree with the complete fluid exchange as being the best way to change out the fluid. Some people do a quick drain and fill with every oil change; eventually you'll replace all the fluid. Important however to always use a new crush washer for the drain plug and not overtighten it or you risk spinning the bung that holds the threads.
One reason (IME) to open the drain plug is to help wash out any sediment on the bottom of the pan, assuming you aren't dropping the pan to clean the magnets. When you pour in new fluid (or do the fluid exchange) that sediment and other particles are released into the new fluid.
One option is to install an inline transmission filter to filter out and pick up (there's a magnet inside) the particles that will get stirred up and released by the fluid exchange procedure. IME.
One reason (IME) to open the drain plug is to help wash out any sediment on the bottom of the pan, assuming you aren't dropping the pan to clean the magnets. When you pour in new fluid (or do the fluid exchange) that sediment and other particles are released into the new fluid.
One option is to install an inline transmission filter to filter out and pick up (there's a magnet inside) the particles that will get stirred up and released by the fluid exchange procedure. IME.
To make this easier I added measurement marks to the container where the old fluid goes. I poured a gallon of water into the container, made a mark, poured another gallon, made a mark, etc.... the poured the water out.
I was about to do a drain and fill. Just to clarify: do you really need a new crush washer, and does it really need to be tightened with a torque wrench, or is that just being overly OCD? Is it ok to just use a regular socket wrench and tighten it until it feels firm?
I can only comment on the A343F transmission drain plug; YES, Toyota says to use a new crush washer (35178-30010 for a 95+ A343F transmission) every time you remove the drain plug.
Personally I do not use a torque wrench (don't own an inch lb wrench) so I use the shortest box wrench I have, grip it with three fingers and as you tighten the plug (using girly power) you can feel the crush washer crushing down and then you'll hit a wall, that's about where I'll stop. Resist the urge to get it goodntight(er) or you risk spinning the bung that holds the threads in place.
Personally I do not use a torque wrench (don't own an inch lb wrench) so I use the shortest box wrench I have, grip it with three fingers and as you tighten the plug (using girly power) you can feel the crush washer crushing down and then you'll hit a wall, that's about where I'll stop. Resist the urge to get it goodntight(er) or you risk spinning the bung that holds the threads in place.
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REKCUT
SILVER Star
I have always use a shop that has a BG exchange system Transmission | BG Products, Inc. - https://www.bgprod.com/services/transmission/. Its is similar to a blood transfusion as the truck operates as if tranny is running and pulls new fluid from source and deposits old fluid out of system. Last one i did was a few years ago and was $110. Probably gone up a bit.
