That will depend on how much fluid is in there now.
It doesn't need the full capacity if you are draining ATF from the pan. You should need about 4 Qts.
transmission fluid change
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Roughly 3 quarts. I drain into a measuring bottle, reseal the plug and then refill thru the dipstick an equal amount of fresh ATF that I drained. I then bring engine and transmission up to operating temp and check the dipstick to ensure level is good.
I had a reman installed by a toyota dealer in my '04 LX 22 months, 25k miles ago. There is a weepage from the inlet and outlet lines going into the side of the transmission that has lead to a low fluid situation enough to cause the torque converter to make noise at a stop light. I added fluid and tried to tighten them but there is still weepage. Is there a torque spec for them? I was afraid of tightening them too much. I am taking it back to the dealer to make them correct it, but they're three hours away.
2001LC
SILVER Star
25ft-lbf for hard line flare nut, is what a quick search turned up. Which seems high for a flare nut IDK!
I'm not a mechanic but I have friends that are and you can't get the oil out of the torque converter, so the way to go is an oil exchange. I did mine at Jiffy Lube, and what they do is run the engine and pump oil in as it is pumped out. I'm not sure how it works out with the volumes, but theoretically you wind up with a bunch of new oil in place of your old oil. I don't know if this is mentioned anywhere in this thread, but I saw it and thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth. I've go a lot of good information here and think I should pitch in once in awhile.
Hey @bamabrock, if you don't mind, how much was the entire swap? I'm down in Biloxi and looking at $4200 for a reman at Toyota. Did they give you a warranty?
Wow, my brain is bent from trying to wrap it around all the transmission fluid threads and methods I've read the past week.
To confirm, so for my 2006 LX470, which has the 5sp AT "sealed" (no dipstick) transmission, for a "full fluid transfer":
No need to drop pan and/or replace screen.
1. drain in to bucket, preferably w/qt graduations, by using a bypass hose at ATF connection at radiator.
2. drain 3 qt at a time, then refill 3 qt at a time at refill plug hole on AT, turning the truck on at drain, and off at fill, each time.
3. repeat until clean fluid comes out.
4. ensure AT temp is 97-115, then follow bleed-off procedure in Post #160 to ensure not overfilled ("Procedure is to shift through all gears once at temp. Once at temp, while idling with shifter in "N", remove check plug. If overfilled, ATF fluid will run out. If underfilled it will not run out. You want it slightly overfilled and let run out until it just drips. DONE.")
Then done?
How long does this process take, assuming you have all the parts (ATF fluid and refill plug washer at final refill) and tools/bucket/hose.
How many quarts ATF should I expect to need, 15?
Begin the process with engine/AT cold? Warm?
I assume no problem doing this with AHC at High for access underneath.
If I understand corrrectly there's no drain plug on this "sealed" AT, just a refill plug?
My mechanic was talking about doing a 3-4 qt "drain and refill" (I'd rather have all new fluid, preferably) , or dropping the pan (still doesn't get all the fluid, and more can go wrong IMO) so just want to be sure I understand in case I decide to DIY.
To confirm, so for my 2006 LX470, which has the 5sp AT "sealed" (no dipstick) transmission, for a "full fluid transfer":
No need to drop pan and/or replace screen.
1. drain in to bucket, preferably w/qt graduations, by using a bypass hose at ATF connection at radiator.
2. drain 3 qt at a time, then refill 3 qt at a time at refill plug hole on AT, turning the truck on at drain, and off at fill, each time.
3. repeat until clean fluid comes out.
4. ensure AT temp is 97-115, then follow bleed-off procedure in Post #160 to ensure not overfilled ("Procedure is to shift through all gears once at temp. Once at temp, while idling with shifter in "N", remove check plug. If overfilled, ATF fluid will run out. If underfilled it will not run out. You want it slightly overfilled and let run out until it just drips. DONE.")
Then done?
How long does this process take, assuming you have all the parts (ATF fluid and refill plug washer at final refill) and tools/bucket/hose.
How many quarts ATF should I expect to need, 15?
Begin the process with engine/AT cold? Warm?
I assume no problem doing this with AHC at High for access underneath.
If I understand corrrectly there's no drain plug on this "sealed" AT, just a refill plug?
My mechanic was talking about doing a 3-4 qt "drain and refill" (I'd rather have all new fluid, preferably) , or dropping the pan (still doesn't get all the fluid, and more can go wrong IMO) so just want to be sure I understand in case I decide to DIY.
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1. it may take 30-60min
2. last time I used 12 qts
3. start with cold definitely. you also dont want to burn your skin since the exhaust pipe is in the way of filling port.
4. no problem at all
5. there is drain plug and fill plug. also, a level checking plug
6. dropping the pan cannot get you full new refill.
Plan couple hours start to finish if you are doing a full system flush>>12-14 qts- and level check procedure- the actual time cycling the fluid through won’t take very long it’s all the prep, topping off and clean up.
3-4qt Drain & fill is quicker but not by much if you incorporate level check procedure
3-4qt Drain & fill is quicker but not by much if you incorporate level check procedure
uHu
Bridgeburner
You got some good answers here, but, my 10 c:
- AHC in Hi is fine. Some 4x10" blocks under the tires in addition, and you won't get crushed even if it goes to low. (4" high, 10 wide)
- The drain plug and level plug are both under the pan. The level plug has an internal pipe going up to the right level. Fill plug is up on the side.
- Even if you drop the pan, you won't get much more atf out, only about a cup. But, if there is any serious crud in there, you will not see it without dropping the pan. There will be some very fine shavings/dust attached to the magnets, which is normal.
- If you are doing the described method of pumping all the atf out, there is no benefit of dropping the pan. (Other than checking for shavings)
pdot
SILVER Star
I did the flush procedure a couple weeks back from this post by @2001LC on my 2001 (with dipstick). Pretty straightforward. Some observations:
- the system can pump out fluid way faster than it can be refilled due to the tiny dipstick tube. starting/stopping the vehicle to get the right amount flushed is the tricky part.
- the clear 1/2" ID tube was too big for my truck and leaked a lot
- pre-marked catch bucket was super helpful to keep fill = drained. i used an old chlorine tab bucket to catch the old oil.
- i had 16 quarts on hand and it was not enough. the fluid was not fully clear after flushing all of it, but that's how it goes
- not noticeably different when driving, but good peace of mind!
I realize this video is a 4Runner but would this method work on a 100 series cruiser? Would it be essentially be the same as an exchange?
Any glaring reasons not to try this method on a LC?
BullElk
SILVER Star
Looky here…. Just trying to be a responsible Hundy owner and see if I can get more miles from my problem free tranny.
I hear a good herbicide will double the tranny life.
I hear a good herbicide will double the tranny life.
This and a few other posts have been super helpful! I do have a couple of questions and wanted to confirm a few things before getting parts:
- I need to get the RED fipg for the trans pan (00295-01281)? Or is there a new part number for that?
- What about the rubber gasket Toyota 35168-60010 Gasket?
- We’re no longer jumping pins but using an OBD2 reader to confirm trans temp. Any issues with OBDFusion expanded PIDs?
- The correct fluid leveling temperature is 97-115F.
- New fill/check plug gaskets 38178-30010, torque to 14ftlb
- 12qts fill but have an additional 2qts on hand for leveling, WS only.
- The correct oil line to disconnect was shown in Post 152 (by @2001LC ) was for pre2004 but was there a change for post 2004?
- What size of drain tube fits on that nipple there? Sounds like 3/8” ID has been used per the lazy man WS ATF filler thread.
- Fill tube should be bigger ~1/2” ID with a PVC 90 ala “Lazy man WS atf filler”
- Did anyone figure out what size/model of fel-pro pop-ups worked to align the transmission pan?
- Did I misremember something or was there a transmission oil thermostat we needed to put a paperclip in to get flow to happen while everything is still cold?
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