Transmission and Transfer case removal. First time
- Thread starter MoaByte
- Start date
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I had oil coming down the splines past the hub seal before I did my rebuild. If you don’t use gear oil safe rtv on the splines then oil will migrate down the output shaft splines.
agreed. if thats the case it wont leak too too much but it will still leak. The flange on the driveshaft actually makes a pretty damn tight seal onto the output of the t case though so it wont really drip
- Thread starter
- #24
Thank you all for your input. Nearest machine shop is Grand Junction. I tried something.
I used my angle grinder with a worn flapper disk, carefully ran it in circles a few dozen times, the got out the random orbit sander with a 220 disc on it and repeated it a couple more dozen times.
It isn't machine perfect.. but all the bluing and most of the slight grooves are gone. I didn't remove much material and is pretty flat under my drafting ruler. The cracks seem superficial and I'm feeling optimistic.
I used my angle grinder with a worn flapper disk, carefully ran it in circles a few dozen times, the got out the random orbit sander with a 220 disc on it and repeated it a couple more dozen times.
It isn't machine perfect.. but all the bluing and most of the slight grooves are gone. I didn't remove much material and is pretty flat under my drafting ruler. The cracks seem superficial and I'm feeling optimistic.
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- #26
Obviously something is wrong.
Pilot bearing came out using half the puller, and new one went in perfectly using a 7/8 impact socket as a drift.
RMS was not leaking, but pried right out using a gasket pick and a flat screwdriver. New seal went in nice and smooth with gentle taps from my hammer.
Using a 36mm socket (fit perfect) to drive out the hub of the throw out bearing and a 1 3/4" socket (also fit perfectly) to gently tap the bearing on to the hub.
All of this without one swear word being uttered. When things are going this smoothly, I get nervous. It's also nice to have a bunch of sockets.
Next is installing the flywheel, disk, and pressure plate. This LC is one of the most pleasurable vehicles to work on. And I haven't used a 10mm on any part on the job excepting the shift boots.
Pilot bearing came out using half the puller, and new one went in perfectly using a 7/8 impact socket as a drift.
RMS was not leaking, but pried right out using a gasket pick and a flat screwdriver. New seal went in nice and smooth with gentle taps from my hammer.
Using a 36mm socket (fit perfect) to drive out the hub of the throw out bearing and a 1 3/4" socket (also fit perfectly) to gently tap the bearing on to the hub.
All of this without one swear word being uttered. When things are going this smoothly, I get nervous. It's also nice to have a bunch of sockets.
Next is installing the flywheel, disk, and pressure plate. This LC is one of the most pleasurable vehicles to work on. And I haven't used a 10mm on any part on the job excepting the shift boots.
You got this. A lift and a lift height transmission jack make this super easy. I don’t even have to pull the hump
- Thread starter
- #29
I was taught to use lithium on the input shaft. Anybody got a better idea?As others said.. out is easy. Putting that puppy back in might take some lube ...
If you do literally everything solo like me... you have to get creative.
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- #30
My experience is of stabbing 1600cc VW motors in. This has a lot in common but the married trans is at least twice as heavy and asymmetrical. On my side is my 18 yr old son helping. Against me is we are working on a sloped driveway. I am so grateful that we have a concrete slap under us. It might be snowing, but that beats driving rain.As others said.. out is easy. Putting that puppy back in might take some lube ...
If you do literally everything solo like me
I'm feeling good about my homemade flywheel resurfacing. If I'm wrong, I'll post it up.
Roughing up a flywheel usually works just fine.
It’s too late now (sorry to break the news) but it’s important to test fit the pilot bearing onto the input shaft tip to make sure it’s a nice fit and not too tight or too loose.
If the fit is a bit tight, you’ll struggle trying to mate the transmission up all the way as it hangs up on the tip.
When inserting the transmission assembly into the flywheel pilot bearing, it’s never a perfectly parallel slide right in affair. Almost always the tranny will hang up and won’t budge for the last 1/2” as the input shaft isn’t perfectly aligned and you’re not rolling the transmission perfectly parallel at the right angle.
Not knowing for sure if the input shaft can slide ok into the pilot bearing beforehand usually will turn a cuss free day into a swearfest — but it’s been done before. Lots of times by others.
ChaserFJ60
Owner of CruiserHead.com
I heard a machinist say the cracks were fine, Most semi-trucks just resurface and deal with it -Quote from machinist I used
- Thread starter
- #35
Yep, it too late. I already seated the pilot bearing and I wish I'd had this foresight. Thanks anyhow. Maybe this was that feeling I got when the rest went so well? What I can do is lube it. ,, And hope for the best. The engine aligned slightly down, and eyeball the alignment with the shaft,, What you don't know is that we are doing this on a sloped driveway. This is why we had success on the year down.
Not only are gonna fight moving the tranny jack uphill with 4 swivel castors, we also have to stab that input shaft into a untested pilot bearing.
Reminds me of my junior prom.
Luckily, my son understands my articulation of our first language. ( We both barely passsed English in HS).
But we are both lovers so I'm optimistic we can stick it. But don't be thinking my son and I are gonna be tag teaming anything other than trannies....
Wait! That's not what I meant!
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Use some ratchet straps to help pull. Also you can use some longer bolts and “carefully” use the bolts to snug it up.
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- #37
That's "Golden advice". I nearly forgot.
Guide bolts in the two lower BH holes will help a lot, and only use the two lower holes.
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- #39
6" inch guide bolts? I may not have the in the magic bolt bucket
I think 4" may be enough, or even 3. Buy bolts with the same pitch and diameter as the BH bolts, cut off the heads then cut a slot in the end.
