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I see. Like pallbearers, but to life instead.I think 4" may be enough, or even 3. Buy bolts with the same pitch and diameter as the BH bolts, cut off the heads then cut a slot in the end.
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I see. Like pallbearers, but to life instead.I think 4" may be enough, or even 3. Buy bolts with the same pitch and diameter as the BH bolts, cut off the heads then cut a slot in the end.
Interestingly good point. It is a Koyo. I could test it with my caliper. If it don't fit, I'll yank it out. Or I could hit it with some jewelry files. So far, I'm impressed with Toyota's engineers. If this was a Jeep, I'm sure I'd already be pissed off.It might save you a lot of grief, buying a spare pilot bearing ( from the same vendor ) and do that test fit before attempting that drive way up hill stab.
Hehe, he never stated it was a koyo till his last post, I figured it was aftermarket.I’ve never tested a Koito pilot bearing ever. Stab it.
Man, I hope so. There were a few swear words today. All in all it is straight forward. Cleaning the grease is by far the worst part. And the one broken bolt that holds the cross member to the frame is giving me grief.You good now. Giddy up
Man, I hope so. There were a few swear words today. All in all it is straight forward. Cleaning the grease is by far the worst part. And the one broken bolt that holds the cross member to the frame is giving me grief.
Thanks for the support. I did use the longer bottom bolt method. It helped.Toyota just planning ahead and looking out for you. There's what, 48 cross member bolts, Mr. Toyoda designed it that way knowing that 40 years later you'd be breaking a bolt so even with one gone you still got plenty of support.
I snapped a thread chaser in the 80 series frame yesterday but it's not in a critical spot.
You’d stab her too?I should be ashamed to say so, but if I found a lady as nice to me as this LC... Well
Well, that was easy. Supported the engine with a bottle jack and 2x4, set up the tranny jack, wiggled it back and it was out.
Hey, just going through this process now and was wondering where exactly you supported the engine at. Oil pan?
Hey, just going through this process now and was wondering where exactly you supported the engine at. Oil pan?
Yep. The 2F is a fat bastard, but the oil pan is... Well should be sturdy. I replaced the rear main seal, but am still procrastinating on the oil pan seal. It leaks a little more since replacing the clutch probably because of said bottle jack. It still only loses a little more than a quart every oil change. Thinking about it now that you brought it up and I suppose it wouldn't hurt to retorque the oil pan bolts so I can continue to avoid that minor PITA job.Hey, just going through this process now and was wondering where exactly you supported the engine at. Oil pan?
Yes, oil pan will work. Use the stock Toyota jack and a piece of 2X6 and place it under the pan. I recommend the stock jack because that will give you the ability to tilt the rear of the engine up or down, plus it's mechanical and will retain whatever position you have it. If you use a hydraulic jack it could lose pressure over time.
Be careful - I put a nice dent in mine.
Yep. The 2F is a fat bastard, but the oil pan is... Well should be sturdy. I replaced the rear main seal, but am still procrastinating on the oil pan seal. It leaks a little more since replacing the clutch probably because of said bottle jack. It still only loses a little more than a quart every oil change. Thinking about it now that you brought it up and I suppose it wouldn't hurt to retorque the oil pan bolts so I can continue to avoid that minor PITA job.
No, but you should look up "the bread method" for removing your pilot bushing (it's not the only way) and be prepared to replace your flywheel in case it isn't resurfacable.Thanks, guys. I'm doing RMS as well. Oil pan gasket isn't leaking, for now. Hopefully I don't knock something loose. Also, do I need to drain engine oil when replacing RMS?
Already familiar with the bread method, haha. And, t-case is getting re-built and re-sealed, clutch replaced, etc. H55 ain't happening just yet. Not gonna let this 4-speed get off that easy.No, but you should look up "the bread method" for removing your pilot bushing (it's not the only way) and be prepared to replace your flywheel in case it isn't resurfacable.
Before you start, check the oil levels in both the tranny and TC. If one is low and the other over full it because of a seal between the two has failed. It would be a good time to replace it but also a good time to rebuild the TC and well hell, a good time to upgrade to the H55F 5-speed.
Don't get too stressed, just do what you can now and if you have to pull it again later, it will go much quicker as you will be familiar with it. Take your time if you can. Get a buddy to help. Beer is cheap.