Transfer case went out a day after timing belt replaced!?!

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Jan 15, 2021
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Laguna Beach
Hi all,

My 01 LX470 with 200k miles has given me a bit of trouble this week. The fan clutch bracket went bad, so I decided to replace the timing belt, water pump, along with the fan clutch. I thought I would be good to go mechanically for a while. The very next day my wife was driving it and it broke down in an intersection. I towed it back to the same mechanic and he said the transfer case went bad. He is recommending installing a used transfer case with 100k miles on it.

Two questions:
Is there any reason to believe the mechanic improperly installed timing belt etc. to cause the transfer case to go out?

Is installing a used transfer case a good or bad solution when trying to maintain a reliable car without breaking the bank?

Thanks in advance!
 
We actually had one of the front axles strip out two weeks ago! (Different mechanic) said the other front axel looked ok, but maybe it stripped out

Today, my wife was stopped at a light. Went to go and heard a loud clunk, felt like something dropped under her, then it would not go. She pushed it to side of road, put it in park, and it started rolling backwards while it park.

Unfortunately the tow truck arrived before I did, so did not have a chance to check it out.
 
I'm guessing the previous mechanic replaced the axle but didn't replace the flange, or didn't correctly set the snap ring clearance on the axle, causing it to back out and destroy the splines. Its a known issue that happens when mechanics that aren't used to the full float front hub of the LC try to service them. They aren't difficult to setup but they do require reading the FSM.

Regardless, I would not purchase a used transfer case. Get second opinion from a different shop or the Toyota dealer.
 
X2 on 2nd opinion.
Would be surprised if it was the transfer case, these things are very rugged. Seldom is there mention of issues with them on MUD.
 
Its NOT your transfer-case. These things are fairly bullet proof.

NO the timing belt has nothing to do with the Tcase.

FIRST make sure the shifter didn't get kicked out place. Second LOCK your center diff and see if the vehicle will move, if it does....then go straight to your CV AXLES and FLANGES. And don't ask a mechanic to do this for you. Go do it YOURSELF...so you don't get hosed.

A stripped flange usually goes with a 'bang' and will allow the vehicle to roll even in park.
 
I've never heard of the transfer case going bad on one of these. That would be a new one for me.
 
Sounds like driveshaft or transfer case tho...
due to the open center differential, the transmission in park will only hold the single axle that has the least resistance to staying still. Without a doubt the issue lies in the drive flange
I towed it back to the same mechanic and he said the transfer case went bad. He is recommending installing a used transfer case with 100k miles on it.

Do not go back to this mechanic. Ever again. He was about to charge you to replace perfectly fine parts and seems to have zero understanding or willingness to learn and diagnose the 4wd system. Pathetic. And don't go back to that other one that did the axle either. Good mechanics are hard to come by these days it seems. This is why those of us that are a in a position to, feel obligated to do our own maintenance and repairs.

Now if it actually is the transfer case, my apologies.
 
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only transfer case I know of that had an issue was a MT guy who was pulling kids out of a ditch in snow on old logging roads
 
Further diagnosis is needed.

With engine off ....
With the CDL "off", can you raise the truck one front wheel at a time and spin a tire with a bit of force? What is the result with the CDL "on"? Rinse and repeat for each rear wheel.

Can you physically move the transfer case lever from H to L with the engine off? Engine on and tranny in N? Return the lever to H.

Did doing the above exercise fix the issue?
 
UPDATE: Second mechanic said it was the passenger wheel hub flange/axel that went out. Much better diagnosis then replacing the entire transfer case. Strange that both sides went out within two weeks of each other. If your cruiser is coming up on 200k this is something you might want to check on as preventative maintenance to avoid the headache I have gone through. Thank you all for encouraging me to get a second opinion - you saved me about $1000, and saved the LX470 from getting a used transfer case!

I live in Orange County, CA and the second mechanic I went to is Certified Japanese Auto Repair in Lake Forest. I have had really good luck with them for the past 10 years and their prices are very reasonable (not a high end shop, but knowledgable). They are a little out of the way for me, which is why I didn't take it to them in the first place. Lesson learned, it is worth the extra time to go with an experienced mechanic.
 
UPDATE: Second mechanic said it was the passenger wheel hub flange/axel that went out. Much better diagnosis then replacing the entire transfer case. Strange that both sides went out within two weeks of each other.

Lesson learned, it is worth the extra time to go with an experienced mechanic.


they both had the same amount of mileage it is not unreasonable.

IMHO the problem was with the first guy not checking and fixing both sides
 
My experience has always been that when I fix one half of a system the other half invariably receives some type of stress that causes it to fail soon thereafter.

Yep.

Items (in pairs/multiples) with similar mileage and use..... should be replaced in pairs. If ONE went bad the other can't be far behind.

When drive flanges fail....you should look closely at the CV axle splines as well. Often the the CV axle is in need of replacement too.

This is what happened to mine. (Wife called and said she heard a 'bang' and the vehicle would not go forward any longer without a terrible grinding sound).

 


This is the noise of money being stripped out of your wallet. Worse than scratching a chalkboard IMHO
 
Unfortunately, these stripped hub flanges and damage axle spline are caused by improper wheel bearing service 99.9% of the time. It also requires that the service be done by the book (FSM). All to often wheel bearing service is not done or done improperly.

This is the one result:
When hub flange splines (teeth) worn-out, like below. The axle is also.
Hub flange Failing (2).JPG

New hub flange.
Hub flange new (5) 06LC 196K.jpg

Axle of FDS.
FDS 04LC 210K bad axle snap ring goove DS.JPG

FDS 04LC 210K bad axle snap ring goove DSc.jpg

New FDS axle splines (teeth)
FDS axle new.JPG
 
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This is the noise of money being stripped out of your wallet. Worse than scratching a chalkboard IMHO

Well... fortunately this happened shortly before I was going to 'go through' the front end anyway.

But yes, copious amounts of money were bled from my wallet.

I opted to replace/refurbish everything....and I do mean everything.

There were components that were still good.....but since I was already deep into the project, just replaced them all.

I'm retired and had the time.

frt parts ready1.jpg

Front parts2.jpg
 

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