Transfer case plug thread issue - what options? (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

Drain plug on new to me fj40 transfer case is not seating all the way. Prior Owner (great guy) told me that it was overtightened and stripped it out.

As you see, it is not seating right now.

I saw in another thread some options for this plug...

Toyota low profile drain plugs (uses 10mm hex head) part # 90341-18021
- plug gasket (steel, for diffs) part # 12157-10010
- plug gasket (aluminum, for tcase, trans) part # 90430-18008

It appears that these are the same thread pitch, so if I am stripped, that really does not help much.

What options do I have here? Is there a slightly larger plug I can use and retap the thread? Or some sort of helicoil?

Thanks,

 

[65swb45]

It is not a pressurized system. Form follow function. The PTO covers are glued on. IOW, as long as you start with a clean dry surface, you should be able to glue the plug in. There is a kevlar gasket that will put less pressure on the plug than the aluminum or steel washer and would be more amenable to being bonded with an adhesive.

Hth

Mark

 

[Fast Eddy]

Are you saying it's tight, and not seating as shown?

Helicoils do come in sizes large enough to repair that.

There is a kevlar gasket that will put less pressure on the plug than the aluminum or steel washer and would be more amenable to being bonded with an adhesive.

If you were going to do it with FIPG, why not eliminate the gasket? I'd put it on the threads too, after cleaning with brake cleaner.

 

[Tysano]

I would find a tap in the stock thread size and pitch and see if you can't carefully and slowly clean up the threads. If you haven't already tried that. You might be able to save them, am guessing that it's probably
x-threaded, and not pulled out

 

[2fpower]

I have not touched it yet, just trying to get my ducks in a row.

@65swb45 Mark, are you thinking that I can drain it out really good, clean the threads and then just glue the plug in with some FIPG?

I am liking the tap idea. Anyone know the thread pitch to find a tap?

 

[cea1]

If it's really stripped and you want to repair it rather than rely on FIPG to hold it, timeserts are one option. See: http://www.olympiafj60.net/timesert-drainfill-plug-repair.html

 

[65swb45]

Are you saying it's tight, and not seating as shown?

Helicoils do come in sizes large enough to repair that.



If you were going to do it with FIPG, why not eliminate the gasket? I'd put it on the threads too, after cleaning with brake cleaner.

A fair question Ed. The reason I'd be inclined to use THAT gasket is that it has a larger facing to it. Sort of that Mark Whatley MIBS mentality.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Are you saying it's tight, and not seating as shown?

I would find a tap in the stock thread size and pitch and see if you can't carefully and slowly clean up the threads. If you haven't already tried that. You might be able to save them, am guessing that it's probably
x-threaded, and not pulled out

That was what I was looking for in an answer to my question above. If it's tight and not seating, as shown, that would indicate x-threaded, not stripped, and could easily be tapped out.

 

[2fpower]

18x1.50mm

18mm Tap, Drain or Fill Plug | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

 

[Bambi Girl]

Hi
I would try the 18 x 1.5 mm tap first.
If the that fails an 18 mm x 1.5 helicoil would be my next choice.
Make sure you use a new drain plug when finished or you may damage your good work.

Good luck.



...via IH8MUD app

 

[2fpower]

I went to drain the fluid out and that plug was literally barely hanging there in place.

The bolt threads look good, so I think the choices I have are:
1. to glue the plug in place, and hope that it doesn't rattle out, and when I want it out hopefully it comes out.
2. drill a hole and tap it for a 20mm plug -- found that in the dorman parts,
3. I found a 18 x 1.5 threaded insert with a 10 mm hole in the middle. I'm wondering if I could epoxy that in place with the new drain plug being the 10 mm In the center.
4. And the most expensive, do the nut zert from the 60 series forum.

 

[Fast Eddy]

So, the choice that three or four people suggested didn't make the top 4? What about a helicoil?

 

[Living in the Past]

Never listed the year but if it's a one piece I would just replace the T case. Not fan of gluing any plug in. Would carry a spare plug more glue fans enough if I did. Would also be a pain replacing the oil later. I am not sure what PTO coverwas glued on to the T case. Only seen the covers bolted on with the same bolts used to mount a PTO.

 

[CarDude]

I would go with a timesert before the helicoil. With the helicoil you have to break off the little tab at the end of the coil after you install it. The timesert is a solid piece of metal plus they both cost about the same. I use the helicoil on my exhaust manifold. It worked great.I found the timesert after I had bought the helicoil.

 

[2fpower]

So, the choice that three or four people suggested didn't make the top 4? What about a helicoil?

huh?

There is really no threads left and not enough material to make good threads. The picture I took of it was before I touched it. Ends up it was loose. less than finger tight. Yes, I bought a tap for it, but under inspection, there is no material to tap. So the top idea to "tap" it cannot be done in my opinion. Mark's idea to glue in seams the best, but if it decides to leave, then I have no oil and stranded. That still made my list --though scary in my opinion.

 

[3_puppies]

could you go bigger? 1/2" pipe?? or similar

locktite was making a product to make threads in a hole a couple years ago, not sure if it is still around, it had to do with an epoxy and a release agent on you bolt/plug

 

[Weber Sarge]

A properly sized timesert will allow the hole to be tapped bigger , install the new insert and it's back to original size . Properly installed , they do not come out or loosen over time either .
Sarge

 

[2fpower]

@cea1 listed the timesert above, and I think it may be the best option, although I am confused how it holds in place given that the part that expands at the end of the insert is not hitting any metal on half of the area. Look at the thread. Pic copied below.

http://www.olympiafj60.net/timesert-drainfill-plug-repair.html

Also, if I am not mistaken, the new insert is taller than the original area, thus not all the oil will drain out.

Anyway, don't know anyone local that has the time sert and $250 seems steep for this repair.

So, goign back to the glue the plug in idea. I am wondering if one could put a tube in the oil fill area and suck the oil out. That way, I never need to pull it out again. If so, I am leaning to @65swb45 said and just FIPG the plug in place. For peace of mind, I am thinking of drilling a hole in bolt head and put some wire to hold in place - airplane style.

If I ever do pull this transfer case out, I can fix correctly then -- likely weld in a new bung.

As I said this is new to me FJ40, so I have much to learn. It has 350 chevy, some 5 speed tranny that I have not identified make yet. I need to replace oil pan of engine, so need to figure out what to get for that. I can't say that I ever worked on a 350 chevy, so this is all new to me. Seems funny walking into a parts store and saying I need a part for a SB350 and they say what car.... Toyota....

Feels good to be back amongst the 40 fans, thanks for all the advice. @3_puppies , been a while since I saw your name on a thread.

 

[Fast Eddy]

A properly sized timesert will allow the hole to be tapped bigger , install the new insert and it's back to original size . Properly installed , they do not come out or loosen over time either .

This. ^^^^ Same thing for Heli-Coils, which are typically cheaper.

 

[2fpower]

This. ^^^^ Same thing for Heli-Coils, which are typically cheaper.

I am not disagreeing with you Eddy. You got a loaner tool?